Here I am

BRAKE SALVATION!

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To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Looking for input and comments on Espar Vs Websto Heaters

no more chewing!!

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WoW!

For those of you who, like me, have been unhappy with their 2500 brakes, here is some happy news. Dodge 3500 series (heavy duty/continuous towing) rear wheel cylinders can be swapped out with your existing cylinders. You won't believe the difference in stopping power. Say goodbye to premature front pad wear...

The parts information, for those interested, is:
(this is the way it reads on the ticket)
QTY (2) FP NUMBER 4761603
DESCRIPTION -- WHEEL CYL W 5064011
UNIT PRICE 49. 88

I've gotten cozy with the head of the parts department, at our local dealership. I bugged the poor guy with stupid questions until he assigned me a "shop account". You can request the same at your local dealership. If you can provide a business license number (tax id #) or even a business check they'll (typically, anyway) set you up with a parts dept. account. All of a sudden your parts costs get shrunk by about 40%.

The wheel cylinder price quoted above is "retail". You can probably buy them cheaper using the above method. I've learned that parts people are typically the objects of lots of abuse (both from their resident grease monkeys and the shade tree variety, too) so they really appreciate a smile and a pat on the back for a job well done. I discovered (at 40,000+ miles) that my rear window (fixed, not a slider) was leaking and my carpet had mildewed. The dealership did a "good faith" repair of the window, removing and reinstalling it, but I had to eat the cost of the new carpet. Dodge makes replacement carpet to match the original. It is molded, with a contoured, heavy rubber-backed bottom. The cost of the replacement was over $200. 00 With my discount I got it for $154. 08!

Sorry for the long ramble, here...

Get the wheel cylinders. You won't believe the difference in stopping power -- just the weight of your foot will stop ANY truck. Mine weighs well over 8,000 pounds (with all the after-market bolt-ons) and it now stops like a BMW!

I swapped out the cylinder myself, 'cause the dealership was going to charge 2 hours labor for this simple job. Even if you have the dealer do it, parts and labor shouldn't run over $150 - $200. For those of you contemplating a $1,000 E-brake, please try this solution first. (then get the E-brake, anyway!) ;-)

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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), turbo, Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake.
 
AAAAWWLLLRIGHT!!!! I did that and I have over 80K on my pads now. I dunno if I'm going to need a brake job this summer or not. Maybe not. #ad
#ad
#ad
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The parts guys at my dealer are pretty good and give me a discount. It sure helps if you don't give them a hard time.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
It seems to me that there was a TSB on this . A few years back I took mine to a dealership that gladly performed it for me.




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"Roadrunner"-96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires-custom pinstriping- Walker muffler-Cummins mudflaps
 
Sasquatch,
That's pretty interesting. Do you drive unloaded at all? Do the rear wheels tend to lockup when unloaded? I wonder if this upgrade would work on a 1999 2500. By the way, how do you like you Transgo kit and SunCoast converter?
-Fitz
 
Is that compatible with the ABS? Are any other parts required to perform the swap? Sounds like a great idea.

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Tim Barlow
 
Tim,

All you need is the wheel cylinders. No conflict with the ABS. The cylinders are exactly the same except for piston size.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Sasquatch,thank for passing information on,I have a friend,who has a 2500 series,an was mentioning to me that he felt the brakes felt weak
 
BRAVO!!
And what timing!!

I drove MCrossley's new 2001 2500 and was green with envy regarding the stopping power compared with my 'old' 99.

Will this work on a '99?? I will send off a price request to mopar4less as soon as I finish this.
 
Found this thread and kicking it back up... . Anyone else do this? Sounds interesting for us 'undertired' and 'underbraked'

[This message has been edited by David_VT (edited 05-05-2000). ]
 
Does this swap work on 2001's? Has anyone recently done this swap?

I am curious about it, ocasionally it seems my front brakes are working alot harder then the rears... . ? I relaize it is a 7000lb beast heh and not a sports car.

Anyone who has done this please speak up with any pro's/con's you have discovered. Also will running empty 99% of the time change the effect? (locking up the rears all the time)

Thanx!

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  • Eric D. Howard --- Baby BOMB'er!
  • 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 4x4 SLT Auto Reg cab Cummins Turbo Diesel 4. 10 gear ratio LT265/75R/16 tires
  • Patriot Blue Pearl Coat, Agate interior, Leather seats EVERY option available exept for heated seats.
  • In the VERY near future VA CPC, JRE 4" Exhaust, and Autometer Ultra-Lite Boost and Pyro Gauges

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 05-05-2000). ]
 
Interesting...
I just got off the phone with Mopar4Less and they tell me that the 99 2500 has the same brake cylinder as the 3500 (pn 4761603)

They gave me the numbers for the 2000 (pn's right 4088898 left 4088899)

Any one know the difference between the 99 and the 2000's??
 
KatDiesel - I believe this is already done on 2001 brakes. The sizes of rotors and shoes/drums is exactly the same in the 2001 service manual for the 2500 and 3500. I would expect the wheel cylinders are the same.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover
 
Just took my 01 for front brake squeal, say I was getting excive wear of pads and will order new ones. Any one else with a 01 having problems?

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Eric Pitts
2001 Properly Valved 2500 Qcab 4X4 auto 4. 10 LSD Prime-Loc
Weston Nerf Bars Smith built brush guard
Command Remote Starter
Neophyte B. O. M. B. er
Terre Haute Indiana
The Pitts Home Page

Member GLTDR
 
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Good brake upgrade idea Sasquatch.

Today I switched my OE wheel cylinders to the 1 Ton 27MM Part # 4761603. Same # for both sides.

Simple to do. Flushed entire brake system and replaced with fresh DOT 3 fluid. It takes about 1/2 the pedal pressure now to stop. I should have done this along time ago.

Observations,
I couldn`t believe how much crap was in the OE wheel cylinders. The fluid was almost brown. Lots of rust particles too. I had flushed the brake system about 2 years ago too!

Have a quart and a pint of DOT 3 brake fluid on hand if you are going to flush the system. I sucked out my master cylinder, wiped it clean. Then filled it up with new fluid. Neighbor worked the brake pedal till clean fresh fluid was coming out the bleeders.

I have a Mity Vac vacuum bleeder tool. If you are going to use it to vacuum bleed the braking system, you really need to teflon tape the threads on the bleeder valves. It will suck more air than fluid. Its easier just to have a helper pump the brake pedal IMO. I may try the Speed bleeders. They have an internal check valve that allows you to pump the brake pedal and not have to close & open the bleeder. Russel & Earls makes them.

A funny thing happened when I first test drove it. I lightly applied the brakes and they GRABBED big time. I could tell it was the rears because of the way the truck felt. I applied the brakes again, little more pressure. Both rears momentarily locked up, until the anti-lock sensed it and kicked in. I was saying to myself. " This can`t be happening" and other censored words. " the friggin original TSB 05-04-97 mentioned nothing about a proportioning valve change when installing the 1 ton cylinders!" Then it came to me. I had sprayed the backing plates and rear axle with Simple Green to get rid of the spilled brake fluid. I hosed it down pretty good. I must have got the rear brake shoes wet too. Thats why there were grabbing. Once they dried out they were fine. #ad



Bill R
94 2500 SLT,4X4,5 Speed,3. 54 LSD... . Still looks brand new... .




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 05-27-2000). ]
 
Along with the better braking , I have noticed the rear anti-lock braking system works Much better with the larger wheel cylinders. It seems to 'like' them. #ad
 
Hey fellas--We have been doing this cylinder upgrade for years--It can be done on other makes & models also. The only difference you may notice is a slightly lower pedal due to the increased amount of fluid that is moved. This is only on some applications but the benefits are well worth it. Flushing fluid is very important & DOT 4 has a higher boiling point--a big benefit for those who pull a lot of weight. This upgrade has no affect on the ABS part of the system. Rear wheel lockup can occure on very hard applications but at higher speeds the ABS should compensate for it. This is only when running empty or on wet pavement. Any questions? I'll try to help. Let me know.
Sam Peterson, Brake & A/C Supply
 
Hey Pitts, I'm getting a bad squeal in my right front brake assembly, and a rattle when going over bumps. Noticed it a week ago, haven't had time to get it jacked up and look at it. I have 4000 miles left on my warranty, and am debating whether it's worth hassling with the dealership over it, or if I should simply go ahead and fix it myself.
My 98 Ram 1/2 ton 4x4 had the right front brake pad wear prematurely at 16,000 miles, it ruined the rotor. They replaced it all under warranty.

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Tom M.
Secretary of the Great Lakes Turbo Diesel Registry GLTDR B. A. D. Boys www.lubedealers.com/meers.html

[This message has been edited by Briar Hopper (edited 01-13-2001). ]
 
This sounds great, tell me more. Do you change all four cylinders to 3500 type?

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Tom W in Austin Tx 98 24v 2500 Quadcab, auto, 3. 54, lsd, Rhino, white/driftwood, Banks Stinger Plus, Manix grill, nerf bars , DTT's TC, valvebody, cooler, Mag-hytec trans & diff, Pac brake.
 
Hi guys, I could have sworn I read somewhere a few years ago that if you had a 2500 with a 5-speed, you got the bigger wheel cylinders (along with the Dana 80), but you didn't if you had an automatic with the Dana 70. Maybe I read it in the TDR, I don't know, but I know I learned of that before Rob Spading started these forums with his Cummins Diesel Website.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. One thing I know for sure, I noticed a big improvement in the quality of the brakes in my '97 5-speed compared to my previous truck, a '96 automatic. '97 was when they changed from vacuum assisted brakes to hydraulic assisted brakes.
Andy
('97 2500 5-speed 4X4 CC)
 
I have a '94 2500 5-speed truck with a dana 80, and I had the smaller wheel cylinders.

I think D/C went to the bigger wheel cylinders starting in '97 for 2500's.

Tom,
Your truck has the 27mm 1 ton cylinders already. Its the earlier 2500 '94,'95,&'96 trucks that got the smaller cylinders.


Here is the original TSB on the wheel cylinder swap: http://www.ecpe. vt. edu/~dfritz/technical/TSB97/05_04_97. HTM

It says that changing to the 27mm cylinders on a 2500 should only be done if the truck is almost always loaded to 75% of the GVW. My truck never tows or hauls. I have had no problem. #ad


[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-13-2001). ]
 
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