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Brake upgrade

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Time to do something about the braking abillity of my rig. Wondering if anyone has tried to adapt the newer twin piston calipers to a single piston brake system. Also wondering if replacing oem 2500 rear wheel cylinders for 3500 will make a difference. Any comments or suggestions would be great.
 
Brakes

There is a load sensing proportioning valve on the rear of some 97-99 2500's. There is a tsb on this which calls for the removal of the valve and installing a straight through hose. Chrysler states that it is only for vehicles that are at 75% of their GVW most of the time. If you weigh a 2500 diesel, it is sitting at 75% of 8800 empty. I removed the valve on my 98 and the rear brakes are now doing more work and it stops very nice. I will try and find the part number for the hose.
 
The hose assy. to bypass the valve used to be part number 52009575AB,but I think it has changed up to 52009575AC. It will dramatically improve braking performance and increase pad life. You can also put the 3500 wheel cylinders on,they will help too. Just remember,it may lock up a bit when unloaded in the wet. It will scare you the first time the ABS kicks in,but you will learn to just modulate the pedal a bit and have no problems.



Also check the front caliper slides and caliper for sticking\siezing,and pay close attention to the rear brake adjustment.



I was wondering as well if you could somehow mount the newer brakes front brakes on the older rams. We have an early 2001 (with rear drums),and was going to try one of these days,to swap the on to my 97 for fun,but the truck is on the road all day lately. I would also like to try and put the newer rear disks on as well. I know some cutting an welding will be involved,sounds like fun. Oo. Oo.
 
I did just as described, 3500 wheel cylinders and no proportioning valve... rears came alive in fact I eventually went back to the 2500 original cylinders and have a very well balanced system. I have EGRs carbon/kevlar pads and shoes and they are amazing (I,ve tried 3 or 4 other brands). Also, my truck weighs 7900 lbs with current equipment.
 
So how hard to install

Hello

everyone who has installed the above, is the valve the bronze looking piece with a rubber hose coming off the top and the brake lines on both sides, and if so, is it hard/time consuming,

and any hints/watchouts for/remove the spare/leftrear tire,

plenty of brake fluid type of job ????



have the hose assembly, doesn't look to hard but !!!



thank you in advance,will start tomorrow before the rains come. .



dave :(
 
The valve is on the left frame rail above the rear axle. Its not too hard to replace. You can leave the wheels on if you want,but it's easier to bleed with them off,as can get to the bleeder screws from the top. Break everything loose first,but leave the brake lines in until you take it off. Change it as fast as possible and you won't loose too much fluid. Try not to let the master run dry,as if you do it may be harder to bleed.
 
Originally posted by Mike Beggy

I did just as described, 3500 wheel cylinders and no proportioning valve... rears came alive in fact I eventually went back to the 2500 original cylinders and have a very well balanced system. I have EGRs carbon/kevlar pads and shoes and they are amazing (I,ve tried 3 or 4 other brands). Also, my truck weighs 7900 lbs with current equipment.



Mike,



Is there a web site where I can see the EGR pads and maybe get some prices? Thanks for any help!
 
I tried to reply other day but it didn't work. I got EGRs phone number from the TDR magazine. Glen Mauer and his wife are very helpful.
 
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