Brake wear

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HELP!!! Please!!! My '96 has just over 50,000 miles on it and is on its' fourth set of front brakes and third set of calibers. I drive very conservatively (the misses would say slow), and rarely haul anything so dealer excuse for excessive brake wear do not apply hear. I also keep the rear brakes adjusted every oil change. If I am lucky I get 12,000 miles from the front brakes. The last replacement included the left front rotor, on which the inside pad's rivets grooved it . 050" deep. I can normally get over 70,000 miles out of brakes, but not with my Dodge. I like truck, but cannot figure out the brake problem. The left front caliber seems to wear out the inside pad ery quickly. Anyone have a clue on how to fix this? I really coated the sliders with anti-sieze this time hoping that maybe just they were hanging up and causing the wear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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david b kriebel, 1996 Ext. Cab 4x4, 2500, SLT, Cummins, Garnet red, Loaded, now I am not.

1970 Hemi Cuda
1970 440+6 GTX
1967 440 GTX
1966 Hemi Satellite
And no spare time!!!

 

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#ad
Wow, impressive Hemi resume.
I think you're on the right track lubing the sliders, I'm getting the impression they don't slide too well, and that could be part of the problem. You may try to move up to a higher grade pad. I'm assuming you do alot of stop and go driving. You can replace the rear wheel cylinders with the 3500 ones, they'll bolt right on, and feedback on this sight is it seems to help the front brakes out somewhat. I plan on switching mine out next time I change the rear shoes.

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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"

 

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The question that comes to mind is: Is there any residual brake fluid pressure being applied to your brakes either unkowingly by you or by the system while underway. Since the Cummins has essentially a governed idle speed, you probably can not detect a dragging brake even at very slow speeds.

First off, do you accelerate and brake with only your right foot or do you brake with your left foot?

Second, maybe it's the brake system. Try jacking a front tire off the ground immediately after shutting down and spin the wheel. Any drag?

If not, you may want to try this with the engine idling. BE VERY CAREFUL and use the appropriate jack stands or timbers.

I gotta believe the brake system is applying a very slight pressure causing the premature pad wear. Let us know what you find.

Ron.

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'00,2500,4x4,QC,LB,6spd,3. 54,4wABS,Camper-Trailer packs,BD Brake w/ECM ctrl,Pullrite 20. 5K 5hitch,Tekonsha EnvoySV,12K# Damon Escaper, CobraCB,Flame Red/Silver.

 

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I have 60,000 on my truck and all brakes are in good shape. I also believe your brakes are dragging slightly. I am assuming your truck is an auto. You probably would never feel the drag. Good luck.

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97,ext cab,4x4,5spd,US Gear box.

 

[Archive]

Dave, You might want to check the proportioning valve. It might be defective, not letting fluid pressure off the front brakes. I'm getting about 25,000 miles out of front brake pads, but I'm running oversize tires, and do alot of stop and go driving up here in New York. Last set of pads, I used Raybestos Super Stop severe duty brake pads. So far so good. I to adjust my rear brakes at every oil change. I think I might update the rear brake cylinders to 3500 pieces. They are a direct swap. This was mentioned in previous posts. Hope this helps. -Glen

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1998 12 valve 2500 Quad Cab, A/T, 4. 10, Deep Amethyst, 4. 5" Skyjacker Double Flex lift kit, 36. 0"x14. 5"x16. 5" TSL Super Swamper radials on 16. 5"x9. 75" Weld Typhoons, Speedliner spray in liner, Raven high rise cap, J&J stainless steel Nerf-N-Steps

 

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I have 105k on mine, and am the only driver. I bought the truck new. I replaced the original front pads at 80,000 and still have the original rear shoes. They're about down to the rivets & will probably change them out this summer. Pleanty of hiway miles, & a lock up switch for a little engine braking.

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Locomotive Engineer/Red Ram Driver! 97, 2500, Auto,3:54, 2WD, Re-sale Red, Loaded w/Leather, Diamond Tread running boards & box, Bumper guards, "Bull Ring" tie-downs, Front bumper guards, Clearance lights, TST 230 HP kit (slid forward), Missing silencer ring K&N, Combo exhaust temp & boost gauge, Eng. & Trans. temp gauges, 3 Pos. Lock up switch.

 

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I have been in the process of moving and just got the computer hooked up. I too think the brakes are dragging, I have suspected the propertioning valve and or the master cylinder since it is very difficult to collapse the calibers. THere is a slight drag when I jack up the wheels and spin them. And, I drive and brake with my right foot, have followed many a driver with the perpetual left foot on the brake, oyu can smell the linings cooking.

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david b kriebel, 1996 Ext. Cab 4x4, 2500, SLT, Cummins, Garnet red, Loaded, now I am not.

1970 Hemi Cuda
1970 440+6 GTX
1967 440 GTX
1966 Hemi Satellite
And no spare time!!!

 

[Archive]

Front brake hoses can cause a lot of problems,brake pull ,and non releasing calipers,we have been fighting bad brakes and pull and a cracked rotor on a 89 trans am so I pulled both hoses and you could not blow through either of them even with compressed air but you should be able to with your mouth with out restriction,most of the time when they break down they act like a check valve allowing the brakes to apply but are slow about releasing I have even seen them scoot a wheel on gravel when not applied. If you are haveing a bad brake problem don't overlook them as the proportioning valves aren't cheap. Good luck

[This message has been edited by ramman (edited 07-09-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Hey Y'all,
I had a similar problem in my 95 2500. The front brakes were binding horrendously. Seems that DC used a caliper that had a composite piston designed to reduce heat soak into the brake fluid. Unfortunately, the piston would expand when hot and bind. DC replaced my calipers with updated ones that had metal pistons. No more problems. May be something to consider.
I have since upgraded to a 98 QC and have a constant brake squeal at low speed. Slight pressure on the brakes stops the squeal.
Does anyone know if DC is still using the composite piston or have they upgraded at the factory?

Thanks,
Steve