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Competition Brakes for racing/street

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Competition DFW Big Dawg Dyno and Drag

  • crawler
  • Replies: 0
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Competition 10:58 @ 132 MPH in Texas

  • torkin
  • Replies: 5
EGR Brakes Rhonda.



I've been driving hard on my set of Carbon Kevlar drilled rotors for a long time. I've got about 20-25,000 miles, and I drag race, drive on the street, do Pier's style burnouts, and, tow heavy. I've had them up in smoke 3-4 times, and have turned 'em blue from the heat. no cracks, no nothing.



If you try stopping with just your truck brakes from 70MPH grossing at 30,000Lbs as fast as you can, you can actually get the brakes to fade away, but not completly.



I would give Glenn a call. (909) 898-1168. When my 4x4 needs brakes, he is who I am going with. Awesome product, great prices. Glenn is a good guy too.



Merrick
 
HOSS said:
NOBODY uses/abuses there rig like you do!!!!!! :-laf
Click to expand...

Hey, don't forget Jason Burton! I think he installed a net under his truck to catch parts... :eek: :-laf



Thanks for the info, Merrick, I'll give him a ring. Sounds like just what I need.
 
Rhondasway said:
Anyone out there using slotted/drilled rotors and driving (abusing) their rig like I do? If so, where'd you get 'em, how are they, what pads do you use with them, how long do pads/rotors last? I posted on this thread: http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1039761&posted=1#post1039761 which seemed to have some good info.

I need to make this decision as soon as possible and would appreciate the input.
Click to expand...



Pull your floorboards and Fred Flintstone that beast. Wallmart has blk wingtips for 12 bucks a pair. I received my first pair in second grade, I still have them.
 
#ad




That is what you want. DO NOT BUY CROSS-DRILLED BRAKES FOR OUR APPLICATION!!! A hole is a weak point (stress concentration). When you are stopping 7000 lbs from 110 MPH, it takes A LOT OF ENERGY (read: heat) to get you slow again... holes expand, contract, expand, contract and get weaker over time.



Slotted is more than enough, and they work great. Mine (pictured above) are cryo treated (don't get as hot), zinc plated (corrosion), and are awesome! Absolutely no fade... when you push the pedal and mean it, you stop, RIGHT NOW! and can do it over and over again.



They came with performance friction pads, but when those wear out I'm going to try a set of Sam's pads... just something different.



I have the only set ever built for a Dodge, but he will/can build more. Takes about 4-6 weeks, but if you pressure him really hard like I did(I had to, cause I needed them NOW!) he had them done in 3. Not cheap either, but worth every penny. He told me 200k miles on the rotors, and double the life-span of the pads that you are currently running.



www.appliedrotortechnology.com



Josh
 
Josh,, I've had mine up in smoke, and in puddles several times. I drive pretty sane, most the time, but get a trailer behind me down here in Tx, and I like to put the Cummins to work, and the brakes to melting. I guess I need to take a picture of my front rotors so you can see where the "Blueing" is. My rotor's aren't cryo'd, or plated, I felt I didn't need it.



Of course, I only have 20,000-25,000 hard miles on mine, so, I guess they are due for a very close inspection?



My brake pedal feels better than my Dad's '01 4-wheel disc'd Chevy Duramax, and better than my bud's '04 Dodge 3500.



Be sure to get the Stainless Steel brake lines, they Really firm up the pedal. I can push my pedal all the way to the stop, and it doesn't feel spongy.



As for the Holes,,, I don't see the philosophy there. Any cut, scratch, dimple, or hole is going to expand and contract.



I think the Holes in rotor theory, is about as good as the slotted rotors shaving away the brake pad theory.



I'm not saying that Glenn's stuff is the best, and to buy his,, I'm just extremely happy with his stuff, and have had NO problems with my brakes.



Merrick
 
Rhonda, for the ULTIMATE in brake pad technology, there's only one source-- Porterfield Racing Brakes. http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/



These folks make the most amazing stopping power pads I've ever seen. They just happen to also not eat your rotors and give reasonable dusting. Besides, on a truck that sees track action, dusting is the LAST concern.



Josh is exactly right about the drilled rotors. You want slotted or solid. Drill is old technology, and usually you have to cryo them to keep them from cracking.



Modern brake pads produce VERY little outgassing, so the need for a drilled or or even slotted rotor is minimal.



You also want to keep in mind the MASS of the rotor. The more mass, the more heat it can absorb. If the rotor ditches the heat quickly, you can use a smaller one.



I've heard nothing but good things about the EGR brakes.



But my experience with the Porterfields has been so incredibly good, I can't help but point anyone to them first... .



Justin
 
Darn near transmission thread status in here... :-laf



Are we going to have to say "Call all the vendors, and make your own decision" ? LOL



Well, if two people can tell me drilling is old school, then it's old school. What I know is they've saved my life twice, and they feel good on the bottom of my foot.



I like drilled 'cause it looks cool... Slotted are harder to tell from OE... :D



I was going to get drilled AND slotted, but EGR had no such offering...



Merrick
 
I've got slotted rotors, calipers, brake lines, and pads from EGR. I have never detected any fade at all. I had forgotton how good they were untill I had to slap a cheap set of pads on after I noticed I was nearly in the rotors while fixing a flat. Get the stainless steel brake lines. They make a huge difference in the way your pedal feels. I don't drag but I pull water and fertilizer trailers around all summer in some pretty hot temps. These trailers can weigh over 12K when loaded, but are really hard to handle when only half full. I've really noticed how much more even my brakes work (don't pull to one side) on the dirt and gravel roads I spend my days on. Before I changed the brakes, rotors, lines, and calipers, my driver's side front tire would lock up under heavy braking off highway.
 
Merrick,



I never said it was old school, I said it was a weakening of the rotor. ANY HOLE, IN ANY MATERIAL PLATE, IS A STRESS CONCENTRATION POINT! That's all I was trying to say. When the metal gets stressed, and it will get stressed with heavy use, the weakest spot is at the holes, and that is where the cracks will occur first.



From what I have been told in the past, most rotors with holes in them are cast that way, and not actually drilled (on high-perf applications like Porche's and Lambo's and such). This helps to lower the stress concentrations considerably because the molecules around the holes are better able to stay connected, as they cooled in that form. But now we're getting a little too deep for this conversation...



Buy what you like, and what works. I still have a slightly spongy pedal that I attribute to 100k on stock rubber lines, and a ****-poor bleed job, all of which will be upgraded, ASAP. The brakes themselves though... . smokin'!!! :D
 
That's cool Josh, no offense taken.



BTW,, the holes in teh EGR rotors are not just drilled. It's going to be hard to explain, but, they are kinda chamfered? If you are looking from the side of the disc,, there is not "just a hole" it actually starts at a ~45* and the O. D. of the hole is about 5/8"?, and then the actually drilled hole part is about 1/4". I'll have to snap a picture of 'em.



Merrick
 
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Wow! So much information; thanks guys! :) I haven't had time to call anyone yet, but I most definitely will. Not quite as volatile as a transmission thread (whew), but different experiences are exactly what I wanted.

I may have to do these a component at a time, but the braided lines are sounding pretty good for the future. Christmas is coming up, and a little "you guys want me to be safe, right?" to the family goes a long way. That's how I got my avalanche transiever a few years ago for backcountry snowboarding... :D

If only I could convince them that a water/meth system was a safety device... :-laf
 
Well, I ordered the rotors Josh has, and they should be here in a couple weeks with pads! Hoping it's not too much of a chore to swap them out... Will keep you guys informed of my (brake-related) happiness. :)

Yeah, Bob, you're preachin' to the choir about that cooling system, just not sure my grandparents will see it that way... :D
 
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising



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