Brakes for the next 200k - A few questions:

[rvaughn801]

The brake and anti-lock warning lights came on last night. The front (smaller) reservoir of the master cylinder was low. I filled it up and the light went out with a few pedal pushes. After a few more brake applications both lights are back on. The fluid level did not go down in the front or rear reservoirs. So I have a hydraulic problem, but I am not sure where.



I would like to get Red ready for the next 200k. I have read enough old posts to feel like I know what some of the issues are, but I could use some help with the details. Questions:



1. Any idea what the likely leak or problem point is? I looked for wet areas around the lines, calipers and wheel cylinders, and did not see a source for a few ounces of fluid that are missing. I will take wheels off and do a more thorough inspection tomorrow.



2. I would like to get rid of the RWAL. I located the unit on the driver's side frame rail. From the previous posts, I have down to get two Inverted Flare fittings to connect the two brake lines: a Weatherhead 252x3 female coupling (for the 3/16" line), and a Weatherhead 202x3 male connector for the 1/8" line.



3. With over 200k on the clock, is it time for a master cylinder and booster? From the previous posts, it looks like replacing both at the same time is the way to go, either Raybestos or Bendix.



4. I have looked for a source for stainless brake lines, without any luck. Does anyone know of a manufacturer or retailer? Are stainless lines a worthwhile addition?



I apologize for the long post, but I wanted to get everything in order before I take it apart. I appreciate any help or thoughts you can offer.



-Richard

 

[tugboatphil]

Rich,



Did the light just come on while driving, or was it from using the brakes?



I had a problem with mine coming on while applying the brakes. Ended up being the rears were way out of adjustment.

 

[rvaughn801]

The first time the lights came on I was driving. With the warning lights on, I had high pedal effort and reduced braking power (only one circuit, or 1 front brake and 1 rear brake?) I stopped and borrowed some brake fluid to fill up the front of the master cylinder (small reservoir). With it idling, I pressed the pedal a few times to equalize the system, and the warning lights went out. I went for a test drive, and the lights came back on. I limped it back to the garage, same high effort and reduced brakes. I will check the adjustment.

 

[JLEONARD]

master cylinder and booster? From the previous posts, it looks like replacing both at the same time is the way to go, either Raybestos or Bendix.

Rich,

Mine nneds a new booster soon, so please advise which way you go, details, etc. Thanks.

Jay

 

[Sri Ram]

If I remember correctly, the front reservoir is for the front brakes. The level will go down as the pads wear and does not need to be topped off? Did you check it only once and notice it was low; or have you been watching it go down over time? Maybe someone else could chime in here.



Also, there was another thread recently about SS brake lines, but no one seemed to know if they were availible.

 

[TKingsbury]

If you have high effort, check to see if your vacuum pump is crapping out. High pedal effort generally means something wrong with the booster side of things.

Travis. .

 

[Headshot zod]

I'm dealing with braided stainless steel lines for my D250. I'll have some prices for you tomorrow. Nobody has them in stock but they can be made up. I'm going with a local brakequip dealer here.

 

[B.G. Smith]

The front reservoir (smaller) is for the rear brakes, and as stated above, the rear shoes just being out of adjustment will cause the "brake" light to come on. You may not have a leak as the fluid goes down into the wheel cylinders as the shoes wear out. If the booster is working I would hang with it. It is my understanding that you can disable the rwals by just unplugging the wires to it. bg

 

[rvaughn801]

Does disconnecting the electrical connectors fix the RWAL issue? Or does the mechanism prevent adequate fluid pressure to the rear axle? As simple as unplugging is, it hard figure why someone would go to the trouble of bypassing the brake lines as well, in less there was a point.



I should have been in the garage checking the rear brakes, but the weather was a little exciting.

 

[TKingsbury]

I disconnected my abs controller, and the only thing it did was stop my abs from working when ever it wanted to. It made no difference in braking. This being said, you could have a problem where the accumulator is open and taking pressure away from your rear system. I am going to by-pass mine when I tear into my rear brakes. I think I'm gonna put in an adjustable proportioning valve too so I can tone down my rear brakes when empty.

Travis. .