Brakes on my 99

[cD'amato]

Do you guys do your brakes yourselves or let a shop do them? I was told that the rotors need to be cut EVERY time the pads are replaced. I was also told that the rotors have to be cut while they are ON the truck. I need a brake job and the dealer wants $500 for the front and back. I hate the OEM pads. I am not happy with the stopping and the amount of brake dust is obscene. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[jbone]

Man, you need to do a search on that topic--there is a TDR member that sells replacement pads that are greatest thing going. Good price--rest of the question sounds like Stealer crap-soa (some old answer)... go to any stealer and guess what--has to be done with equipment only he has!!! R, J. B.

 

[Shovelhead]

Of course it can ONLY be done at the "Stealer"



That's how the service manager makes his boat payments.

 

[LSMITH]

Dealer wants $500, you can do it in your driveway in half a day for $125. If the rotors are not warped or cracked and are still thick enough there is NO reason to cut them, scuff them off with a DA sander or even just a sanding block. Just break the glaze and you are set. The dealer is right that the rotors should be cut on the truck if they need to be turned.

 

[Morphious]

Just to add my $1. 25 (inflation ya know)... . I have 150,000 miles on my truck, I have replaced the front pads around 3 times and getting ready to put my 4th set on it this weekend if I have time. The read brake shoes were replaced with 110,000 miles and still had material left on them. I have never had the rotors turned, and have no problems with the truck pulsing or anything else. I personnaly believe it is a load of manure that you need to have them turned. That should only be done if the rotors are truly warped, no because the shoes have worn out.



Morph.

 

[cD'amato]

Pulsing

I had the rotors cut last time around. Now, when I stop I feel this shaking in the seat of my pants when I get around 20 MPH until I fully stop. ANy ideas?

 

[Morphious]

To me that sounds like either they didn't do a good job of shaving the surface true or they might have shaved too much off and now the metal is too thin and warped.



Morph.

 

[jkern]

$25 napa premium gold... much better than stock pads, and only took about an hour to do both sides. only turn rotors if the need it!!!!

 

[jbone]

Sounds like the guy who did that job on your brakes was trying to get some more later--was he behind you and smiling?? R, J. B.

 

[BV]

Brake job

Let them turn them so they are thinner and warp faster so you can go back and spend another $600 to replace the rotor/bearing assemblies



Okay - just kidding - Do it yourself as suggested above - deglaze the rotor with sand paper and slap the new pads on.



Tip of the decade - Avoid the stealer unless you don't have a choice.

 

[srawleigh]

After Market Rotors and Pads

If you need rotors, try after market. I had great success with rotors from Stillen Motorsports (www.stillen.com). Look at their sport rotors. I have included an excerpt from their web page. I am not associated with Stillen Motorsports.



This is a great alternative, if you want to do the brake job yourself.



STILLEN Sport Rotors are an exact replacement for stock rotors; they offer maximum performance over stock calipers. Computer Aided Design (CAD) is employed to determine the optimum pattern for any size rotor. This patter in critical, for it must correctly sweep the brake pad to increase its initial bite and allow for out gassing while also cleaning the entire brake pad surface. The sweep will eliminate hot spots and maximize the brake pad friction to the rotor. The added air surface, created by cross drilling, will increase the rotors ability to dissipate heat and cool more effectively. For Sport Rotors to perform at their best, they should be used in conjunction with STILLEN Metal Matrix Brake Pads.



Using these parts, I noticed longer pad life and increased breaking performance. Hope this helps.



Steve

 

[cscott]

After reading your thread I saw this add in the classified section.



I know nothing of this vendor or the products but thought you might want to check them out.



The add is at the bottom of the page.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...romotions+and+Group+Purchases&results_format=



Good Luck



Craig

 

[Riflesmith]

This might sound a little crazy, but I used the front axle to "turn" my rotors while holding a sandpaper block against them.



I put the truck on jack stands, removed the calipers, and put the truck in 4 high, 3rd gear and let it idle. Looked a little scary, but worked like a champ. The Iron Claw Copper Top pads I got from Mr. Bob's stop the truck very well(straight as an arrow too).

 

[BK]

I completely agree with LSMITH.



been doing my own brake jobs for about 25 years now.

I don't turn the rotors unless they are warped or cracked.





And as noted above by others, yes you do need to turn these rotors on the truck (when they need it) due to how the hub assy is designed... sucks but true. Just did a Honda for a friend that was designed the same way. We actually took the whole spindle assy off, found a shop with the machine to turn the rotor while still in the hub bearing while all still attached to the spindle!



Some car rotors are soo cheap, due to decreasing the thickness of the rotor when cutting it, it almost doesnt pay to cut them... but just replace them. But word of warning, I've had my fair share of warped rotors out of the box.

 

[lschultz]

Pads

Give Sam Peterson a call (360 357-4958 8:30-5:30) or email him -- email address removed -- and get some of his carbonmet pads. You get everything you need in the box. Son replaced his on his 99 about 2 weeks ago. He had 106000 on the originals. I got me a set for my truck too but its not due yet. I think everbody that has got his pads are impressed.