Brakes

[ropinfool2]

Howdy all, I just did the front brakes on my 03. 50k miles. I had the rotors turned because i was feeling a slight pulsing on the pedal at low speeds. I used Napa's lifetime pads. After about 150 miles I have horrendous pulsing at all speeds. Question is What would cause this?? I'm thinking my rotors are warped bad but after only 150 miles? Thanks. John

 

[Grizzly]

Sounds like something wrong with the ABS.

 

[HOBrian]

If they cut the rotors too thin then that is your problem. Rotors can be cut but for double the price you may have been better off with new not cut rotors.

 

[ropinfool2]

Yea I was thinking i was going to have to put new rotors on, was just wondering if anyone else had had this problem. I don't think it's ABS as I normally "hear" something when they are working. Thanks for the responses. JOhn

 

[BHolm]

I gave up on cut rotors years ago. The rotor is a heat sink, if you remove wieght from it it is less effective and you have experieced what often times happens. Now if you read what some claim, that rotors never warp and what you have is uneven build-up of pad material, turing the rotors should eliminate that, but obviously it didn't. Anymore I just do pads and new rotors every time. Brakes aren't worth trying to save money on IMO.

 

[daytripper63]

I dont know if anything has changed since I did brakes on my 98 but back then Napa had brake pads for a 2500/3500 gasser and different( heavy duy special) pads for the Diesels, after putting on the first set of brake pads they were smoked in 2500 miles then had to turn rotors again and put on the right pads then all was good

 

[ropinfool2]

I bought the Napa Lifetime pads, so if they wear out i'll get new ones. Wheres the best place to get rotors?

 

[LOtero]

whoever cut your rotors could have mis machined them. other words cut them not true. one way to find this out is have your brake calipers off and leave the rotors on. cynch them down with the lug nuts and measure the rotor face runout. if you have a excessive runout try turning the rotor on the studs 180 and measure again. make sure the hub and rotor are clean where the two meet. acceptible LRO (lateral runout) is around . 002 thats two thousanths of an inch. If the LRO is the same after spinning the rotor then the rotor is most likely the problem.

 

[FullSack]

check the rears. I had the fronts resurfaced and it made no difference, next time I'm getting the rears resurfaced. No shimmy in the steering wheel, so I don't think the fronts are bad.

 

[jelag]

Motero has a great point... . I might add that there is a minimum thickness for all drums and rotors... . below that thickness the rotor or drum won't handle the heat... someone who turns these should understand those limits and won't do the work knowing he'll return an undersize drum or rotor...



You might also consider that the people who turned them might have not done their job correctly...



And last... I can assume that you opened the bleeder at least and got the bad brake fluid out of the system and replaced it with fresh fluid before you started to bleed the system...



And that all the moving parts on the caliper were wire brushed so they now move freely metal to metal, and inspection of the boots found no damage... .



Often pushing the pistons back into the caliper, and back to the master can push the dirt back up the line and damage the system..... or dirt under the boot, can lodge between the piston and caliper and it won't fully retract when your foot comes off the brake pedal... . this along can cause a slight drag you won't feel in the steering wheel but will be enough to overheat the rotors and warp them... . also gives a very short life to the pads... .



Hope some of this has helped... .

 

[polarbull]

I was told a long time ago to avoid "lifetime" shoes or pads as they have more metallic content to last longer but they are harder on drums & rotors. I have used Bendix brakes for over 30 years which offer a good balance between service life & application feel... my. 02