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My 2004 2500 4x4 has worn out four sets of pads. They will harden and squeal/grind after 10k or so. The truck sounds like a mail truck stopping. It has 71k on it. I dont tow or haul. I am not abusive but I do drive it like my wifes BMW and Benz. I have put on OE pads to top of the line NAPA. The rotors have been turned and are within spec. I have also replaced the slide pins just to make sure nothing was worn. Am I expecting too much or should I monitor my braking habits closer. I do have a light/moderate drive to work with limited stop and go. Any suggestions?
 
I have an 04 3500 dually that went 160K miles for its first brake job... . When you installed the pads did you inspect the boots on the calipers for damage... dirt behind these boots will allow the piston to not fully retract and will allow the pads to drag...

My 05 dually with close to 90K and the brakes are still fine...

I suggest that you pull up to a stop or light and when the truck is rolling about the speed that you can walk, release the brake and see of the truck continues to roll. . if it does the brakes are releasing...

When you replaced the slide pins did you wire brush the metal to metal contact on the calipers to support brackets.....

Your statement ""They will harden and squeal/grind""" is a sign of glazed pads...

My daughters MIL drivers her auto with the left foot on the brake and the right foot on the throttle... . if you watch her in traffic you can see that she rests her foot on the brake as the brake lights are always lite... her husband has been trying to break her of this for 25 years and just gives up. . and does 2x's as many brake jobs on her vehicle as they should... . could this be you??
 
A buddy of mine is going to do my brakes soon, and I'm going to help so I can do my own if the future... just so I know, what/where are the slidepins, and why/where do you wire brush?

Thanks!
 
The slide pins are the 2 bolts that hold each of the calipers to the support brackets on the axle assembly... .

I've never replaced these pins but do wire brush them as well as the caliper and the bracket where they touch each other... . It's important that these surfaces stay rust free, and I've been known to put some lubricant, (never seize) to prevent the build up of rust... .

Also if your not going to overhaul the calipers (I don't) unless there is a problem I suggest that you inspect the boots and if they are bad, overhaul the calipers... if they are good, than open the bleeder and compress the piston making sure that the old fluid goes out of the caliper when the piston compresses back into the housing... not back to the master cylinder... and make sure you bleed the system with clean fresh fluid of the correct spec number based on the label on the lid of the master cylinder...

If you don't have a problem with the brake pedal pulsing I wouldn't turn the rotors... . if the rotor is scored, or there is an ID/OD lip from the old pads turn the rotors...
 
211k miles on my original pads all around, and most of that hauling heavy. They are getting close to replacement though.
 
I have over 60k on my truck with original pads. They currently look new. If they're glazed over they got hot. Either truck or driver is dragging the brakes.
 
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