Brakes

[Dave04]

I was told rear brakes last the life of the truck. Is this true? Second what is the normal life of front and rear brake? Third, how hard is it to change front and rear brakes and to remove and/or replace rotor? Would any one care to walk me through the process?

 

[Grizzly]

I don't believe that rear brakes will last the the life of the truck. They typically last 2 or 3 times as long as the front brakes.



There is no such thing as normal longevity for brakes because it all depends on how you drive the truck and how heavy you tow. Front brakes could last 75K to about 150K under normal conditions.



Brake pads are very easy to change. You may be well advised to purchase a shop manual for proper procedure. You only need to replace the rotors if they are worn when checked with a caliper and turned when groved.

 

[Grizzly]

Do a search on Jim jelag of Pacific Clutch and Brake. He has wrote some very good and informative Posts on replacing brakes.

 

[moonranch]

At 180K I had to replace the rear brakes. So they are not "lifetime" for me.

 

[steved]

The pads themselves are not to bad to replace... pull two bolts that hold the caliper, lift the caliper and pads out, compress the pistons (both pistons at the same time), install the new pads, reinstall the caliper and pads, install the mounting bolts.



I've got 170k on mine, should easily get 200k if I have the truck that long.

 

[Scooby]

I am going through this right now on my 2006 (which i just bought with 50K miles). The fronts are basically gone and the rear has plenty on it. I am however changing the rotors and pads on all four corners with some cross drilled and slotted ones. I agree with the above post - search for Jim (Jelag) he has great information and is my mentor on this one. Also watch out for the bleeder screws! It is not uncommon for the head to snap off while you are loosening them -which happened to me (search my user name for those posts). But you do want to make sure you loosen them prior to compressing the pistons as the brake fluid that is in there is filthy..... better to get it out and flush it than to reintroduce it into the ABS system. I sucked out all the old brake fluid in the master cylinder as well and am flushing out the lines (in the proper order) to get all new fluid in the lines.



It isn't super challenging, but some decent tools, patience and plenty of PB or WD40 to loosen the old stuff is needed. Good luck!

 

[Dave04]

Thanks this post was a great help. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssions/205085-time-front-rear-brake-pads.html



I will let you know the results.

 

[Dave04]

Do I need to add fluid after I bleed the bad fluid out? What do I need and where can I get some?

 

[jelag]

Open the bleeder before you compress the piston and run the old brake fluid into a container... . remember that if it gets on the paint it will remove it... .

Look at the top of the master cylinder and you'll see the DOT brake fluid for your truck... I'd suggest you pick up a quart, and refill the master cylinder several times as you bleed the brakes... you can stop when the fluid is clear... .

Any good autoparts or chain store like Wal-mart has it on the shelf...

 

[Bessler]

I genralie suck the fluid out of the master before exspanding the caliper, then again after and fill with fresh fluid. If you decide to bleed the system,it's only fluid in lines and calipers to flush.

Steve

 

[jelag]

Andres..... leaving the bleeder closed and compressing the piston pushes the dirty fluid back into the ABS and the master cylinder and can do damage to those parts... . only the guys who do quick dirty cheap work will use this method to do a brake job...

All brake fluid is hydroscopic... that term means that it will absorb water... the water that is absorbed will do damage to the metal parts(rust) and will allow the brake fluid to boil at a very low temperature... this low boiling point will turn the water into steam(under heat) and make the pedal feel spongy... thus rendering the brakes almost useless in a long down hill run or under hard braking.....

Any time one wheel either spins faster than another wheel, or spins slower than another wheel the ABS system will go into action... . if one wheel, because of moisture in that caliper, doesn't slow down... . (turning faster) its possible that the ABS will alter the other 3 wheels... based on the software in the ABS system... .

There isn't a service manual I've ever read that suggests that you can force that fluid back to the master cylinder without severe side effects..... If your going to do your own brake job, please do it right for your own safety... .

 

[Grizzly]

Brake calipers have seals, so it's a bit misleading to say that this fluid is dirty. further all brake fluid is not hydroscopic. (look at dot 5's chemical makeup). And I know several ASE master tech's that hang new rotors, pads and clean up the caliper pins. It's rare that they open the bleeders when just replacing pads and rotors. Severe side effects, that's a bit overblown. There is nothing wrong with doing what you are saying, other than it may be an unnecessary additional cost.

Andres, Jim's absolutely correct with his method of doing a correct brake job. Why cut corners and take a chance with your safety and the safety of others.

 

[Dave04]

Thanks for the replies. Jelag I'll let ya know how I come out. Thanks

 

[Dave04]

Got it and had to change out the rotors too. Broke off both bleeders gonna have to get them out. And now I will have to flush brake system.