Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) brakes

[wrichards]

Just had mastercylinder wheel cylinders, caliper replaced on 1995. Brake pedal does not retrun to up position and leaves brake lights on. Any thoughts?

 

[NIsaacs]

Your brake booster rod may need a slight adjustment to match the new master cylinder throw.

Nick

 

[wrichards]

how is that done?

 

[NIsaacs]

Pull the master cylinder off and you will see an adjustable rod on the booster. Make sure you don't go too long or it will now hold the master cylinder piston down and your brakes will not release. There is a fine line between too long and too short. I would adjust it on the long side and hold the master up against the booster flush, then shorten it a small amount untill there is no slack in the rod when you are flush mounted with both master and booster.

Nick

 

[JMcCoy]

Double check the rear brake adjustment.

 

[wrichards]

Took it apart there seems to be no adjustment. Pedal needs to come up about 1/4 inch more. Not only are the brake lights on but T/C wont lock up either unless I pull up on pedal with my foot.

 

[B.G. Smith]

The TC won't lock because the brake lights are activated. See if you can reset the stop light switch so it will work with the changed pedal position? Seems i remember the adjustment involves pulling the plunger out on the switch four clicks then letting the pedal come in contact with it for proper adjustment. bg

 

[wrichards]

ok just seems like the brake update is the problem not the switch. i guess if the brakes work that whats the big deal, i just like to have everything tight and correct. will try and thanks!

 

[NIsaacs]

Took it apart there seems to be no adjustment. Pedal needs to come up about 1/4 inch more. Not only are the brake lights on but T/C wont lock up either unless I pull up on pedal with my foot.

Thats odd, usually the rod (vaccum or hydraulic booster) will have a tappered 12 point nut thats threaded to the end of the rod. You might check your under dash linkage from the brake peddle to the booster, they can wear bad.



Nick

 

[BigPapa]

I've never had any luck "adjusting" the brake light switch. They're designed to be a "one time user" self-adhusting unit. When new, the plunger is all the way out and after installation the brake pedal contacts and pushes the plunger in. It will go in further, but where the pedal stops is where it needs to be.



My guess is that in the process of replacing all the master cylinder or another item, the mechanic inadvertantly pushed the plunger in a bit further than it was. If you can "pull it out", more power to you. I've just never had one that would do it. I have taped something on the pedal arm to take up the space. There's really no pressure on it, so it doesn't take much to keep it there. I wouldn't use anything much thicker than the space you need to take up.

 

[wrichards]

thanks for the help bu ti think i will bring back to mechanic. Something is wrong. I tried to take up the space suing a hose clamp and piece of 1/4 inch key stock. Problem is I can't get it adjusted just right either the brakes grab ever so slightly or the TC does not lock. The pedal seems to move a bit on its own. For example witht ehtruck running I depress the brake it returns to an up postion but than 10 or 15 seconds it creeps further up. Maybe the booster is a POS and I need and oem. Any ideas where to get one, looks easy enough to change.