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Brick wall backing

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The wife doesn't know it yet but she's getting a wood fired kitchen cook stove. The manufacture said that it needs 20 inches of clearance to the rear of the stove to the wall. Or with a brick backing it could be as close as 10 inches a much better choice I think. Is there a SPECIAL BIRCK that has to be used or what? Regular fire brick looks pretty ugly for this use. What did you guys use with your wood heat stoves?

BIG
 
Around here we use a piece of Sheetrock against the wall, then red brick over that. My wife says," what more could a girl want?"
 
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I was thinking that the Hardy board (cement board ) was a given on this to cement the brick to. I like the imitation rock but dont know if it can take the heat? As with most of us guys what we like or think MATTERS NOT just find away to make it work. But with these stoves they put out allot of heat for a VERY long time.
 
Around here we use a piece of Sheetrock against the wall, then red brick over that. My wife says," what more could a girl want?"

What the red brick or the Wood cook stove? if its the stove SHE WANTED IT!!!! I like the idea of putting on the coffee and turn on the gas stove getting ready for the day and the coffeee is ready when I am.
 
I have also used Hardi Backer with regular stacked bricks for years now... no broblems with a woodburner in front of it.

If 10" clearnace is STILL too much, you could also use a sheet of steel or copper (expensive but looks better) spaced 1" in front of the bricks as an addtional heat shield, and then set the stove even closer to the brick backing. In terms of design and safety, common sense trumps liability ANYDAY.
 
BIG,

Allow an air space between the existing wall with air circulation ability at the bottom and top. That way the heat wont be transferred directly into the wall, if you are installing using the existing wall and not tearing it out. The cement board and brick is a good idea, so is a copper reflector! Just an air space behind them! Soapstone is another excellent backer and radiates heat after the fire has died down depending on how thick it is. Will you use a hearth pad under the kitchen stove?

GregH
 
We have a woodburning stove in a corner in our family room. When we built it I installed Hardi Backer board and covered it with the fake stacked stone which is just colored molded concrete. I think I added strips of the backer board on the suds before I screwed the backer board on. The stove sits only about a foot from the wall and it doesn't get hot just slightly warm but then the wood stove is not very tall.

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Gman

As of now its all speculation as to what she will want but 2 things that I see as not an option is 1 tear out the drywall and replace with cement board. and 2 a floor hearth. The entire wall will be covered with something im sure like some kind of stone so the cement board will be good to cement the tile/rock/what ever to. The floor hearth is a must we have some kind of hardwood floor from Bella wood im not taking a chance on that getting hot and splitting and having to remove some and replace it. I noticed that others said the same as you a heat shield I will have to call the Manufacture and see what their take is on that. On our wood heat stoves we have a 0 clearance so no problem with them but we still have a heat block\brick/tile on the walls behind them.
 
I forgot to mention the fake stone stuff is a concrete type product but is a good bit lighter due to its composition. It's durable enough for indoor or outside use the only thing the instructions mentioned was not to acid wash it. The coloring I think is a iron oxide or rust added to the molds as they pour the stuff. It seems durable enough but I would imagine muriatic acid would reek havic on the finish otherwise they use this fake stuff on the outside of our local buildings everywhere around here.
 
This is a pick of the stove. The wall in the kitchen it will go against has got an opening on each side that leads into the dinning room and great room. there is way more than enough space to store some wood next to the stove and just a few steps passed the wall opening is the outside deck for more wood storage. Im sure that what ever she wants to put on the walls will go from wall opening to wall opening floor to ceiling

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I forgot to mention the fake stone stuff is a concrete type product but is a good bit lighter due to its composition. It's durable enough for indoor or outside use the only thing the instructions mentioned was not to acid wash it. The coloring I think is a iron oxide or rust added to the molds as they pour the stuff. It seems durable enough but I would imagine muriatic acid would reek havic on the finish otherwise they use this fake stuff on the outside of our local buildings everywhere around here.

I was thinking something like what your pic's have but then again THE WIFE takes care of the inside I GET THE BARN AND THE SHOP I have seen some of the fake stone that looks like river rock I like that but my concern is the heat, she has a friend on-line that has one and she says it gets real hot they live in a log cabin and that wall is REAL STONE at their place.
 
Greg

I think she's finally seen the same lite as me you know about my affliction with things old she's getting the same bug. Plus it's another heat source in the house.
 

THANKS thats some great info I will copy that and read it more. The wall that it will be against is exceptionally thick she has a curio cabinet built into the wall on the opposite side of the kitchen,I was thinking of running the chimney for the stove in double tube for that inside the wall boxed in with cement board and if need be fire brick.
 
That's almost too pretty to use! Reminds me of days at my grandmothers' in Alagash. She cooked with wood and hauled water from the spring into her late 80s.
 
I think thats what she is going for the* Grandma's house* we recently became Grandparents. As for the water IM NOT GOING THAT FAR on the right side of the stove is a hot water reservoir of 15 gal of hot water that will be plumbed into the water supply to the house. She will be surprised for sure.
 
In 1974, my parents moved closer to town and into a 3 story house built in 1902. They were the 3rd owner. The second owner wired it for electricity when they moved in, in 1964. It still had the carbide lamps in the house up until the second owner did the remodeling, and the carbide generator was still in an out building when my folks moved in. There was a wood burning cook stove similar to the one Big posted, but it had been moved out of the original kitchen and into the informal dining area. The original kitchen was very small, only 8'X12', approx. , so you could imagine how hot it would get in there in the summer in the Texas Panhandle! It was plumbed into a chimney, tho, and they did fire it up once, but it wasn't drawing right and smoked up the house. It was a very pretty stove, with brass and nickeled cast iron. It even had the copper water tank that attached to the side to heat water.
 
My grandparents (well the remaining family now) have a cabin in Utah that uses a cast iron coal fired cookstove/oven. The cabin has been there over 100 years. About ten years ago we replaced the old one with a "new" one from the twenties. The new one was larger so we had to do some modifications here and there to get it right. It sat too low so we raised it a bit by putting it on some blocks. Since it was larger it sat closer to one of the walls. For that we used some of those electrical ceramic insulators we had laying around as spacers with some hardibacker board that we painted black with bbq paint. So the hardibacker is set away from the wall by about 2 inches. The heat behind the hardibacker is warm but definitely not hot, the firebox is on the opposite side of the stove. The wall behind it is approx 8 inches away and there is no hardibacker etc. While it does get warm it is not hot(the back wall). We used double wall ss stove pipe to go through the attic and roof when we replaced the original stove. The unit also has a water jacket in it. It does not have a tank. We have a tank in the attic space that is heated essentially by convection through the water jacket and line that feeds the tank from the stove. The water is piped in from a spring that is about 10 feet higher in elevation than the cabin so that minimal pressure is just enough to get the water to flow up into the tank from the stove into the attic. So while we have hot water and a shower you still have to go outside and travel a bit to the outhouse to use the facilities. The cabin has no electricity. We do have a generator up there but rarely use it except for building projects where we could use it to run power tools or the ol' spring cleaning to run a vacumm. The lights are just simple lantern style globes or double globes that run off propane with your typical coleman type lantern mantles. Up until a few years ago we had a very old propane fired refrigerator that cooled with ammonia up there that worked quite well. It flat just wore out parts were non existant since they quit making it 50 years ago.
One of the problems we have had even with the old stove is the firebox grates. They tend to warp over time. May not be an issue for a wood fired unit but being as the unit is quite old there are no replacements so we have to make do. I checked into getting some made and at least locally we were pretty much laughed at. If your unit is new that may be a mute point or it may use an entirely different setup particularily with modern design elements like built for high efficiency etc.
I guess after rereading this it has nothing to do with your project whatsoever just took me down memory lane of working on the cabin with my grandfather and the fond memories I have of the place. Still spend time and work on it every year up there though it is not the same without them.
 
Its all useful info I think she will like the stove we want to get back in time to much sometimes. We have solar and wind gen with propane water heat SO HOW OLD STYLE CAN WE BE :-laf She has the old kerosene lamps but much for appearance than actual need in fact some of them I took the guts out of them and ran an elect cord in and put a light socket in it still looks old but it works. If we need kerosene lamps we are in deep crap because we have no tie to the grid so no elect is OUR PROBLEM hasn't happened yet but we have had times that we needed to fire up the propane gen set to charge the batts on the solar or we are having a party and just dont want to drag down the batts so we use the gen set.
 
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