2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bright vs. dim+bright headlights

[LKothe]

I have a 98 1/2 4x4 and I read somewhere that there is a way to modify the headlight system so the dims stay on when the brights are switched on. Does anyone know where to find this thread? I think I saw it in ATS but I can't pull it up anymore.

Would this cause the lights to run hot enough to cause damage to the protective lens?



Thanks

 

[Thomas]

BriteBox

 

[rrausch]

Here is what I did:

OK... you need a good relay, I bought a Bosch 30A relay and also a wiring harness for it. Pep Boys or Auto Z. probably don't have this stuff. Napa might. Any good relay will work, and you don't have to have a wiring harness for it, but it helps simplify things.



You can order the Bosch Relay and a Wiring Harness for it from a place called M. A. D. Enterprises. They are a speciality 12Volt Wiring place for car nuts. They also sell an Insulated Terminal BLock which makes the job go a lot easier. They sell the Terminal Block for $5. Their phone number is (559) 539-7128 their website is Madelectrical.com



You will need to scout a place to install the Relay--I picked a place near the driver's side battery and drilled a small hole into the sheet metal to take a screw to hold the Relay. I also drilled another small hole nearby to hold the Terminal Block.



You will need a source for 12 Volt +. I used the MadElectrical Terminal block, and ran 12V+ to it by soldering a 10 Gauge wire into the Positive Battery Cable and then running the 10 Gauge wire to the Terminal block. (The Mad terminal block has plenty of room to safely add other electrical wires to it if needed for future applications. ) I suggest you also install a fuse in that 10 Gauge line.



In addition to the + Batt Cable, there are 2 other places where you will need to strip insulation from existing wire and solder another wire into it. At these solder joints, I used Liquid Electrical Tape on it, and after that dried, I also used 3M electrical tape to keep moisture out.



Ok... now for the wiring:

The idea is to use the High Beam current flow to trigger the Relay so that the Relay turns on the Low beams at the same time. Then, when you hit the multifunction switch and dim the lights to Low Beams, no current goes through the Relay and the High Beams stay off. All this without adding any appreciable current load to the Headlight Switch.



So you will have to determine which wire sends current to the High Beams, and which one sends current to the Low Beams. I used my Service Manual and confirmed which wires were which with a tester. I had to pull some of the tape off the Headlight Wiring Harness, which runs below the Radiator. I separated out both the Low Beam & the High Beam wires and MADE SURE they were the correct ones with the tester.



Then I stripped some insulation off of each wire, I soldered in 2 lengths of 12 Gauge wire--1 onto the High Beam Wire, another onto the Low Beam Wire, long enough to be routed back up to where my relay was installed near the driver's side battery.



Then you wire the Relay. I ran 12 Volt + from the Terminal Block to the wire for the #30 Spade connector, and I ran the Low Beam Lead to the wire for the #87 Spade Connector. I wired the High Beam Lead to #85, to trigger the Relay and Grounded #86. That should do it! Test it and drive happy!

 

[Willys]

I recently made my own as well. I did mine on the passenger side (cause it was easier for me to reach). didn't cost me a dime. I already had some wire, connectors, and inline fuses. I used 16gauge wire cause the lights don't draw that much (look at factory wire, 16ga. ) I'm redoing mine current cause i wanted to use wire loom rap and make everything neat and pro-like.



if anyone wants, i can post a pic of mine. here is a cheap diagram of what i did. I "think" i have everything listed correctly (as far as the relay goes). you need to test which wire does what for the factory light harness (i don't remember).



this is a real easy job, but can be a real pain reaching the factory harness. also, the inline fuses i used had a 20 amp for the power in for the lowbeams, and i used a 2 or 5 amp fuse for the power on to the relay (2-5 amps is all a 25amp relay needs it's just a switch).



anyway, hope this helps



oh, and my truck is a 96 4wd 5sp longbed w/ camper shell, slt, w/ slanted back duel exast 4" chrome tips, and... my own wire harness for dash switchs, power outlets from n back, backup lights, air horn select, etc.

 

[RJ2]

Do a search on sportlights. Best non engine mod on the site.

Put in the dual relays and upgrade the wire to 10 and 12 Ga.

 

[crabman]

H/L's

LK,

Check out my thread on: Sport Headlight Conversion How To.

I tried the Brite Box route and it is ok on brights but no help with dims. Everyone who has done the S/L conversion has been extremely happy.

crabman

 

[rrausch]

Crabman, can you post a link to that thread? Thanks.

 

[crabman]

forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99088

It is/was on page 3 in this section. (2nd Gen. NO E/T)

crabman

 

[Tardog]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99088

 

[mroidt]

Enlighten Me Grounding switch

Hi guys

I thought our lights were hot all the time from the power distribution center,

and the headlight switch was a grounding unit ?



So if thats true, couldn't you do the same with a grounding circuit behind the switch?



Or would this over task the switch even with the relay?

 

[Tardog]

I believe that was changed in the 98? year to prevent the loading of the HL switch. our pre 98's are hot switched. I think you are on the right track with the same set up just switching the ground circuit

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I just did this fix today, but without the relays and stuff. The whole process took my 15 minutes. So far so good. I have some long drives next week so

I'll let you know if I fry the switch.

I followed the instructions from diseltruckresource.