Brite Box Installation......

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I got a Brite Box at the Dieselfest at a real good price... ... ...
Been wanting one of these suckers for a while!
Geeso, it works great, but installing it proper is impossible. The damn thing has to go right next to either headlite. The factory headlite wiring is not very stretchable. It must go into the Box which therefore must be mounted right next to the headlite assembly. Sorry, no way could a sano mount be found. I mickymoused it in and this really pisses me off... ...
For the bucks charged a little "wiring help" sure would be nice... ... ...
Shame on you good Brite Box folks in Steamboat Springs, Colorado!
I hope the skiing is good... ... .
Ron

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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/driftwood, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster
Boulder City, Nevada

 

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Ron,

I hate to tell you this but you can do the brite box thing with a $5 Radio Shack relay and a few feet of wire. My set up works really great and the wiring is not noticable at all. If my high beams are on, both lights are lit. If the low beams are on only the low beams are lit. I've got my after market 100W running lights wired up so that high beam turns them on too. I would hate to hit a deer on US101 in Humboldt County at 75MPH.

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Joe G.

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Joe,
Now you tells me!
At least they could have done it right for the bucks they get!
Ron

 

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I removed my passengerside battery tray (so I could bolt it on ) and mounted mt Britebox to it. I unwrapped the wiring harness to pull a little more out
I used some extra white, standard wattage bulds and one blew up. Made a mess of the housing.
I've been using the standard ones with no problems.

Joe

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96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires

 

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Joe G,
I am assuming (a deadly mistake anytime) that you went from the high beam side to the relay acuating coil and ran straight from the battery thru the relay to the low beam side of the headlights. If this is correct pelase let me know. Also, you wouldn't have the part number of the Radio Shack relay would you. I was thinking of doing the same thing only with two relays so I could control wether it was on or off.
Thanks, Skeet

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98. 5 3500 QC No Mods yet but another week of reading the posts and I'll be forced to do something.

 

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You people out there are THE BEST!!!

If one of you could send me the schematic and the radio shack part numbers, I would be Forever in your debt!!

The Brite Box was the next item to go in the truck...

It sounds to me like the "Most Elegant" solution isn't always the best!!

Thank You For The Info!!

(TDR MEMBERSHIP PAYS FOR ITSELF AGAIN!!!)

Larry



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'98. 5 24V 2500 C. C. SLT, 4X4, Auto, SWB, Forest Gr. /Driftwood, Tow Pkg. , Smittybilt S. S. Nerf Bars, Factory Tow Hooks, K&N, Mag-Hytech transmission,PIAA 1200 Series Fog lights, PIAA Platinum Headlights, Dodge 3 Pc. Bug-Flector,Alpine CDA-855 Head,Alpine VA-100M Sub AMP,Alpine VA-407 4 Ch AMP, Polk Audio (2)6. 5" Components in the doors and (2) Polk 6. 5 Coaxials in back, MTX Dodge RAM Custom Sub Box W/ (2) 10" 5000 series Subs. . 7 7/8 coats of wax. . Yes Sir That's My Baby!!

 

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I've been off line for a couple of days. The part number for the Radio Shack relay is home in my garage in Eureka and I'm in Sacramento for four days. No problem in getting the right one since they only have one of them that looks like it. It's pretty simple. A black cube shaped thing with four spade lug connectors on one end and one screw hole to mount it on the other. The max capacity is 30 amps so it's a good deal for almost any gadget you want to add. The schematic for wiring the relay is on the back of the package. Skeet, you got the basic idea right ok. I have a fuse in the circuit between the battery and the load supply to the relay. I like to use project boxes (Radio Shack has a selection of these things) to hold the fuse block and relay. In this case I didn't bother with it since it's located just behind the driver's side battery (a little below it) and I don't see much evidence of water or whatever messing the place up. In the case of my aftermarket backup lights I used a project box and sealed the lid and grommets with silicone since it's mounted under the back of the truck.

I have several things wired up with these relays so I only need a multi conducter cable with 22 gage wires to my switch panel inside the cab instead of individual wires. That took care of the rat's nest of wiring I used to have at the firewall grommet.

I hope this helps.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Joe G,
Thanks for the information. Will hit R/Shack in the morning for a couple of relays. Will send you an e-mail later.

Larry Q: Looks like the schematic I sent you will work O. K. for the full time on setup. Will draw up one for the switch in the cab and send it to you later just in case you change your mind.

Anyone else need the drawings drop me an e-mail and I'll send them out.

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98. 5 3500 QC No Mods yet but another week of reading the posts and I'll be forced to do something.

 

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Skeet Cathey,

Your schematic looks ok except that it needs a ground on the other relay terminal.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Joe George,
Thanks for all the infromation you sent. I realized the mistake as soon as I saw the relay. Had thought it would be self grounding but no such luck. Will send you a new copy later. The Radio Shack relay is p/n 275-226 at $5. 99, inline fuse either p/n 270-1281A or p/n 270-1213 at around $2. 00. That's $7. 99 as compared to $90 something for the brite box.

Anyone else want the schematic, e-mail me at skeet@jas.net and I will send it to you.
Skeet Cathey

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98. 5 3500 QC No Mods yet but another week of reading the posts and I'll be forced to do something.

[This message has been edited by Skeet Cathey (edited 12-18-1999). ]

 

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Skeet- please either post the schematic or e-mail it to me at llins@intertex.net

Thanks!

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX
98 2500 QC 12v NV4500 3. 54 LSD Manik grill guard Reading aluminum utility body & rear bumper
PHI RAMMA JAMMA

 

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Skeet - thanks for the diagram, it's so obvious if you think about it! All you Rammers out there like me who spent 30k you didn't have in the first place for a truck (you know who you are), drop skeet cathey an email and save some money over getting a brite box!

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'00 2500 4x4, LB, 5spd. ,
3. 54 LSD, trailer tow,
camper special, plow
prep, Van Aaken CPC,
265/75 cooper's, Line-X,
Activator II, alumasport
diamond toolbox, auto
ventshade, cold front,
cup smoothie, pioneer
custom fit cd, bazooka
bass tubes, SS
convertaball, silencer
ring removed

apprentice BOMBer

 

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I have not yet added a pseudo brite box to my RAM, but on my last truck I did. One suggestion which was worked well in that truck (i. e. no faults) for 9 years is the following:

If you decide to make some kind of switch box in your cab to control your various bumper mounted lights, put the relays out near the bumpers as suggested above.

Now, at radio shack find the phone plug converter that converts the old 4 pin wall jack to the small modern connector found on today's phones.
Buy two of them. Mount this on your relay box and connect your relay command lines to those 4 pins ( 3 for up to 3 relay commands, 1 (fused) for supply to switches).

Inside your cab, create a small switch box with up to three switches.

A crude drawing to show this idea:
A generic three circuit aux. light control configuration

The relay command signals require grounding, thus if the phone cord is cut the worst that can happen is the that the lights get turned on, rather than blowing fuses or worse.

I suggest a relay on the supply side of the relay box, that is powered by the vehicle running lights. When the running/parking lights are on,power is passed to the command coils on the auxilary lighting relays, thus enabling the grounding switches to activate the relays. A side benefit is that the Dodge vehicle 'lights on' nag noise may prevent you from leaving the auxilary lights on when you park.

Don't cut corners on fuse protection, a 50cent fuse can keep a 35k truck from burning up.


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99QC4x4SB5SPD Van Aaken ordered 1/14 from T. J.



[This message has been edited by David_VT (edited 01-29-2000). ]

 

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Hello,
I have never had or seen a BriteBox, but imagine some of the cost may be in that they are using an SCR (solidstate relay) rather than the cheaper mechanical ones discused here. An SCR would be likely work better but would be far more expensive. Someone tell me if I am wrong.

This is a variation on 'skeet's design. There is nothing wrong with Skeet's. The only significant point here is the removal of one of the two relays.

This is untested with the normal caveats of use at your own risk. Remember, there is enough current in this circuit to toast your truck.

This is not meant for you to copy the circuit, but rather use it to design your own!
A single relay variation on Skeet's design

If I were to build this, I would probably add diodes to protect the relay from arcing and to protect the command line.....


[This message has been edited by David_VT (edited 01-29-2000). ]

 

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Just finished installing per skeet's diagram! only prob is removing the battery box, 6 bolts, plus tie downs, and 2 electical connections. Total cost $9. 45 with tax very easy to do no problems.

Thanks to skeet I saved a ton of money on the commercial version.

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

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David_VT,

That's almost exactly how I have mine wired. Skeet added the extra relay for a little more flexibility in the set up. I also run another relay off my high beam circuit. It's for my 100W driving lights. The whole mess lights up when I hit high beams. No deer in the grill so far. #ad
These Radio Shack relays are bone simple and cheap so I didn't bother with diodes or capacitors to suppress arching. The command side is only 10ma.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Now that I've got the Van Aaken coming and the grill guard finally arrived, I better get to mounting some killer driving lights along with using one of these relay solutions.
I like the idea of optionally setting the driving lights up the the high beams.

Any suggestions on big round killer driving lights?

I live on a dirt road and we have far too many swamp cows (moose) to not doing something about night vision.....

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99QC4x4SB5SPD Van Aaken coming, we are going to the BOMBING range soon

Green Monster's cyber garage

 

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You might get in touch with Greg Whale (Four Whaling column in TDR). He made a presentation about lights at last year's May Madness. One set of round ones was so bright that someone in the audience asked if they were legal anywhere on the planet! Might be just what you need. #ad


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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,Torque plate,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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If you go to a local junk yard with wire cutters and remove the headlight plug & wires and headlight bulb from a Dodge minivan or other late Chrysler vehicle, you can use them to make your homemade device plug in series with the wiring of your truck. Use the wire cutters to separate the bulb from the socket and wire directly to it. Works great and you don't have to mess with any of your truck's factory wiring (Just plug & play).

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Frank Dziurda
Carson City, Nevada
'99. 5 2500 4X4 6-Speed Quad Cab LWB 3. 54 LSD

 

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I to think the stock headlights are lacking. Is this the improvement I need or just replacement halogens?

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99-24V-2500-Laramie-SLT-A/T-LSD-355
All Options except cab lights and carpet-Rino- Prime-Loc-Alcoa wheels-Lund cold front-Factory Tows_ALASKA