Attention: TDR Forum Junkies #@$%!
Well... I recieved a BriteBox with sport conversion for Christmas of 2006 along with a set of DEPO sport headlights and factory wattage sylvanias. We made this purchase on the premise that the brite box takes the load off of the headlight switch in order to power the bulbs. This works well due to the fact that the 1996 truck wasn't designed to handle multiple bulbs burning simultaneously, and the brite box SHOULD have been able to allow this function safely.
After installing the setup (sport headlights and B-Box) in Feb of lest year, I could smell the switch burning in the dash. I said fair enough, the truck had 190K and figured the switch was tired anyway. I looked at the harness where the switch connected, and no problems. I checked the B-Box to make sure it was working, and sure enough, on high, when power was removed, the extra set of high beams would cut out, indicating to me that it was working.
Now, One year later, while driving in BFE with the high beams on, my girlfriend and I both started smelling a foul smell. After a few nights of this, we pinned it down to the highbeams being on. Shortly there-after, the high beams cut-out completely. I would run on low for a while and then high would be restored. I started using high only when I needed it, driving on the low beams.
I put a multifunction switch on the steering column today, thinking that maybe IT was the reason I was loosing my highs and that it was burning.
I took the old one apart expecting to see burnt contacts.
Nothing... . It was fine. I still thought it was disfunctional however, because after installing the new one, my headlights functioned fine. That was at noon time today.
Just before sunset this evening, we were talking about the high-low switch and a co-worker asked to see the lights. I hit the switch... . AND NOTHING. no light. I hit the on-off switch and the lights came on high. As I was sitting with the lights on high, the sun hit just right for me to see smoke coming from the on-off switch. I shut it off. When I tried to turn the lights back on, NOTHING. I immediately drove home while I had daylight and pulled the switch out of the dash.
THE WIRING HARNESS HAD MELTED around the green wire. The connector on that wire that plugged onto the post on the switch was making intermittant contact, and the plastic that would have held it in constant contact WAS COMPLETELY BURNT AND GONE.
I went out and got under the hood and got the Brite Box, ya know, the box that supposedly takes the load off of the switch. I cracked it open and put a multimeter to it. My finding was that the relay had failed. That to me is fine... . SH*& happens. I cannot believe now that I paid what I did to get this box, but now I know, and a cheap part fixed THAT problem.
My real problem now is, When I got back in the truck with the lights on high, I checked the wires to see if any of them were hot, as I expected the BriteBox to be isolating the switch from the load. Low and behold, I pinch onto the green wire again and it's FREAKING ON FIRE. It still feels really good on my finger an hour later.
SO... Whats up?!?! Was it just hype here on the TDR that led be to believe that the box isolated the switch from the current load, or did I actually read that on one of the various websites as I was researching this box over a year ago? (Genos, Baker Automotive) I'm thinking very strongly about splicing in a resistor to keep my wiring harness from just incinerating as I drive along, but it just seems like a measure I just wasn't supposed to be having to take.
I appologize for the long post, I'm just burnt and ****** because I blew $150 on a box with a 50 cent relay in it, and a $71 multifunction switch that I didn't even need. I'm now thinking very strongly of building my own relay bank like so many others, and making it do what this box supposedly does. Atleast i'll have a nifty little case to mount it in.
Well... I recieved a BriteBox with sport conversion for Christmas of 2006 along with a set of DEPO sport headlights and factory wattage sylvanias. We made this purchase on the premise that the brite box takes the load off of the headlight switch in order to power the bulbs. This works well due to the fact that the 1996 truck wasn't designed to handle multiple bulbs burning simultaneously, and the brite box SHOULD have been able to allow this function safely.
After installing the setup (sport headlights and B-Box) in Feb of lest year, I could smell the switch burning in the dash. I said fair enough, the truck had 190K and figured the switch was tired anyway. I looked at the harness where the switch connected, and no problems. I checked the B-Box to make sure it was working, and sure enough, on high, when power was removed, the extra set of high beams would cut out, indicating to me that it was working.
Now, One year later, while driving in BFE with the high beams on, my girlfriend and I both started smelling a foul smell. After a few nights of this, we pinned it down to the highbeams being on. Shortly there-after, the high beams cut-out completely. I would run on low for a while and then high would be restored. I started using high only when I needed it, driving on the low beams.
I put a multifunction switch on the steering column today, thinking that maybe IT was the reason I was loosing my highs and that it was burning.
I took the old one apart expecting to see burnt contacts.
Nothing... . It was fine. I still thought it was disfunctional however, because after installing the new one, my headlights functioned fine. That was at noon time today.
Just before sunset this evening, we were talking about the high-low switch and a co-worker asked to see the lights. I hit the switch... . AND NOTHING. no light. I hit the on-off switch and the lights came on high. As I was sitting with the lights on high, the sun hit just right for me to see smoke coming from the on-off switch. I shut it off. When I tried to turn the lights back on, NOTHING. I immediately drove home while I had daylight and pulled the switch out of the dash.
THE WIRING HARNESS HAD MELTED around the green wire. The connector on that wire that plugged onto the post on the switch was making intermittant contact, and the plastic that would have held it in constant contact WAS COMPLETELY BURNT AND GONE.
I went out and got under the hood and got the Brite Box, ya know, the box that supposedly takes the load off of the switch. I cracked it open and put a multimeter to it. My finding was that the relay had failed. That to me is fine... . SH*& happens. I cannot believe now that I paid what I did to get this box, but now I know, and a cheap part fixed THAT problem.
My real problem now is, When I got back in the truck with the lights on high, I checked the wires to see if any of them were hot, as I expected the BriteBox to be isolating the switch from the load. Low and behold, I pinch onto the green wire again and it's FREAKING ON FIRE. It still feels really good on my finger an hour later.
SO... Whats up?!?! Was it just hype here on the TDR that led be to believe that the box isolated the switch from the current load, or did I actually read that on one of the various websites as I was researching this box over a year ago? (Genos, Baker Automotive) I'm thinking very strongly about splicing in a resistor to keep my wiring harness from just incinerating as I drive along, but it just seems like a measure I just wasn't supposed to be having to take.
I appologize for the long post, I'm just burnt and ****** because I blew $150 on a box with a 50 cent relay in it, and a $71 multifunction switch that I didn't even need. I'm now thinking very strongly of building my own relay bank like so many others, and making it do what this box supposedly does. Atleast i'll have a nifty little case to mount it in.
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