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BriteBoxer's Beware !!!

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injectors and timing

Wrecked my truck - Should I buy it back?

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Guys, I hate to tell you, but the 06 truck is a different animal than any other year. This CanBus stuff is wick-ed bad .



I have gone thru two sets of brite boxes now on my truck. The first set were bad really quick--like three days. They quit pairing the brites with dims.



The ones I have now get stuck and the fogs won't shut off! I have to turn the truck off, give it a few minutes, then cycle the key on and back off. THEN, the fogs go off. Seems the boxes are stuck drawing power from their own source--the battery! I called and talked to the real brite box people, not Gino's, and they told me my truck is at fault. It figures... I think their relays are sticking, and taking time to cool before they let go. I can't see the factory cpu holding the fogs on after the truck shuts off... . I feel like I am working with my dealer. :-{}



I am thinking of alternatives... . maybe adding other aftermarket fogs. . :rolleyes:
 
Well, in 06, it's just the headlights that will stay on for "courtesy lighting"-as per manual. So, if the headlights are off and the fogs stay on... . not good.



I have to admit, however, I have never just walked away to see if the fogs would ever shut off. The wire harness to brite box (connected to the battery) on the drivers side is pretty warm. I still think it's a heat issue... . :confused:
 
... I unwired the BriteBox and checked the circuit continuity and voltage. All good, so new bulbs back in and we have light.



... and you can bet I'll not be putting another BriteBox back in there!!! ...





~bump~

Have you had any issues since removing the BB?
 
***********UPDATE*****

I have since sent back three Brite Box seperate units for the 2006 CanBus style . DO NOT GET THESE THINGS!!!

Eventually THEY WILL OVERHEAT. All of mine became a mass of burnt/scortched plastic. The symptom is that your fogs/headlights will stick on--killing your battery. I live in the country and use mine weekly. So, it really is a matter of time...

Tom
 
My headlight issue was a blown bulb in the headlight housing. It took me a few hours of messing around and a time with a air house to blow out the glass chips and left over bulb in the head light bezel. Hope you don't have this problem.



Dave
 
i just ran two relays per side directly off the batterys to cary the load and use the orignal wiring to switch the relays taking the load off the switch, not sure how well this would work on the newer models where i think they are a switched ground, still relayable just a little bit more work

I like this idea. Load is now handled by redundant relays on each side.

But there is only 12-15 volts (if even that) available. The power did not unusually force its way through the bulbs. The bulbs drew more than they were supposed to due to having less internal resistance than normal allowing more power to pass through and got too hot. Lucky the wiring didn't fry.
 
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