Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Broke a bolt! Please advise

[barngal6]

****, I'm killing my KDP

Everything going GREAT, until--



I tabbed the dowel pin, but broke the 10mm bolt that holds the pin washer

I think what happened was i put the drop of red threadlocker

on the 10mm bolt that holds the tab, tightened to feel,

then a friend came by and was talking to me

afterwards, I went to torque the bolt

I thought the torque seemed awfully high,

well about the time I was thinking I should just stop,,

**** bolt broke!



My torque wrench works fine (at least in the past)

so I'm thinking maybe the threadlocker had set?



Now I have to get that shank out... I want to cry



I have the things you drill, in but not sure I can get a drill in there,

and I'm not confident how to do that, I'd hate to strip those threads



Whats the proper procedure, and is there any other option?

(wish I could just glue the tab on... )



I'm waiting for help before I screw it up any further. .

 

[HPetrat]

Sorry to hear about the grief, but you should be able to salvage it with out too much trouble.



First, is any of the bolt protruding out that you may grab it with needle nose vise grips?

If not , you will most likely need to use a drill.



Either way you will need to apply some heat to the bolt and the area around it to loosen the thread locker and then try to remove the bolt.



If you need to drill, I would suggest buying a "left-hand-cutting" tap drill, carefully locating the center of the bolt and center-punching it to stay on center while drilling. Just prior to drilling, apply some heat *Very Carefully* then start drilling. Once you have drilled in about 1/8" to 3/16", re-apply some heat and continue to drill, and if you have the suggested left hand drill bit, the bolt should un-wind as you near the end of the bolt (if not before).



Best of luck with it, and let us know how it goes ,



HP

 

[barngal6]

OK thanks...



The hole is slightly recessed, not flush, and the bolt head has about 3 threads on it, I'd estimate the bolt was about 3-4 times that originally (its the longer bolt that was supplied with my TST KDP kit... )



on the bolt head, the middle is just slightly depressed, so of course the shank left in the hole will be slightly pointed. .



Is it possible some pieces of the shank can fall out behind the case (backwards from the hole) and if so, how much of a problem is it?

 

[Joe G.]

If would be a VERY good idea to check the torque wrench. It should not have twisted off the screw before clicking. I had a torque wrench that stuck once.

 

[JGK]

For proper access for drilling, I think you're going to have to remove the radiator and intercooler. It's not difficult, but it's more work. But it'll make access infinitely easier.



If the remaining part is indeed pointed, in order to get centered on it for drilling you'll need to grind down the point. A proper die grinder burr that is flat on the end with cutting teeth would do it. You can probably find one that will work with a Dremmel tool, if you have one, and it would be cheaper. I have such a burr, so I know they can be found.



Then, go at it like HPetrat described.



-Jay

 

[RHestand]

If push comes to shove, and you can't get broken bolt out, you can leave it in there.

There is another KDP fix, with a KDP jig available. Just do a search on this forum for more info.

If that bolt was seized solid enough to twist the head off, you can bet it's going to be a bear to get out.

Also while trying, be very carefull to keep filings out of the engine. (I know you new that. )

Good Luck, Ray