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Broken exhaust manifold bolt in the head

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Got a broken exhaust manifold bolt in the head. First snapped the head of the bolt off. Removed the exhaust manifold, used vice grips, then bolt out on the stud that remained, I think I was cock-eyed/not turning it straight, and broke the stud off in the head:mad:. I'm sure its in there pretty good, cause the bolt wouldn't thread all the way in before it got TIGHT. So what did I do, put the whammy on it/Johnny Armstrong on it, to try to 'make' new threads I guess. That is how I broke it in the first place. It's the #1 cylinder, bottom bolt.



What's my options to get this thing out?
 
Bill,



I read this three times and I do not understand what is left in the head. Just a few threads? The entire bolt.



I have had a great deal of experience with removing broken studs/cap screws. First it takes patience. Second ... . well I don't know cuz I don't know whats left in the threads.



Is the cap screw broken off flush with the head?
 
HTML:
I do not understand what is left in the head



Me also confused.



But don't lose hope. I know I have butchered up things like this in the past and have gotten bailed out by a friend of mine who is really good at removing broken bolts. It does take skill... and patience.
 
Ouch! It's time for the drill and easy-out.

I've never had much luck centering the hole when I'm drilling broken bolts, then I started using a small burr bit to center the hole.

Once you get a small hole centered, and square to the head, start using slightly larger drill bits.

For something like this I'd go buy a selection of the best bits you can find, unless you're really good at sharpening them.

With some time, an hour or less, you'll have most of the broken bolt drilled out and you may be able to walk it out with a cold chisel.
 
Greenleaf said:
Is the cap screw broken off flush with the head?

Not flush, actually broken off slightly recessed in the head:mad:. I guess I could round up the broken head off the cap screw and the piece of the bolt that broke second to see how much of the cap screw is left in the head. Looks like I need to buy some new/good drill bits. All mine are worn out. Keep em coming ;) .
 
I've had good luck with a reverse drill bit. Drill through it first with a small bit and then use a little larger reverse drill bit and it may back out. I tend to break off easy outs when I use them.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
I would drill it out and pick the threads out w/ a pick and chase the threads... if that doesn't work, heli-coil it.



I'd take this advice. An easy out might work, but if the bolt went in cross threaded you run the risk of breaking off the easy out in the bolt. Drilling a broken bolt out is a pain, but drilling a broken easy out... . :{
 
exactly... most of the times, when a bolt breaks, there's a reason... boogered up threads, cross-threaded, etc.



I, personally, have NEVER seen an easy out actually work... but I've heard countless horror stories about them breaking off, and they're made of a MUCH harder metal than that bolt...
 
HTML:
I, personally, have NEVER seen an easy out actually work

I have... but never when I'm using it.

I would also opt for the drill and pray method... . drill it out and pray you don't frig up the threads doing it.
 
JLEONARD said:
HTML:
I, personally, have NEVER seen an easy out actually work

I have... but never when I'm using it.

I would also opt for the drill and pray method... . drill it out and pray you don't frig up the threads doing it.



no need to pray... if you can't get good threads after drilling, just heli-coil it! :)
 
I work at a welding shop and when this happens we take a nut (same size as the broken bolt) weld it on the broken bolt. We use 7018 3/32 rod. Once you get it welded on let it cool good. Then heat up around the broken bolt with a thorch and 9 times out of ten they come right out and usually dont mess up the threads. This method is quick and easy but they got to know what they are going. cheap too. We would only charge 25 to 30 dollars to do it.
 
DBush said:
I work at a welding shop and when this happens we take a nut (same size as the broken bolt) weld it on the broken bolt. We use 7018 3/32 rod. Once you get it welded on let it cool good. Then heat up around the broken bolt with a thorch and 9 times out of ten they come right out and usually dont mess up the threads. This method is quick and easy but they got to know what they are going. cheap too. We would only charge 25 to 30 dollars to do it.



Ahh, ya beat me to it. Instead of drilling it out, I would do as above, but a little differntly. First I would take a nice thick flat washer, with nearly the same size diameter hole, or slightly smaller, and weld this to the top of the stud. A guy can get "stud plus" rod to weld with. It tends to pile up better, and be more resistant to welding the bolt to the head. Then after the stud is built up and welded to the washer, then weld a nut to the washer. Fill the nut totally up with weld. Let it cool for a few minutes, and then put a wrench on the nut and start working it out. Go back and forth when you feel resistance, and then it will come out.



Good luck Bill, just remember, this will require patience. If you run out, you will have to leave the garage, or you will just dig your hole deeper. Whichever method your select, drilling or welding, just be patient. It will come out. Even if I have to drive out there and get it out for you. You might not be able to afford the service call, but it will come out. ;)



Michael
 
Looks like you got around 1/4" of bolt left in the hole. That makes it easyer. Very little to drill threw. Just work slow. With that small amount of bolt. I would drill it out amd use a tapered tap. It might get in far enough to get into the orginal threads.
 
Belive it or not I've seen a cutting torch used to remove broken exhaust manifold studs. Using a torch heat the bolt until glowing hot then momentarily hit the oxygen and the steel bolt will melt and be blown out of the hole, all that is left is to run a tap to remove remaining bolt fragments.

This is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced.
 
I'm somewhat ticked right now. I think I'm just gonna pull the head and take it to a machine shop... or sell the dern thing #@$%! ...
 
As a machinist, that would be my vote. I don't know how many broken bolt fiasco's I've been through in my 28 years. Broken easy-outs, holes drilled off center and even partially into the part. Attempts to torch them out gone bad. Bolt welded to the part. Once they determine it's hopeless and they can't do more damage, they bring it to me. That being said, I would try drilling it, but be sure you get centered! Try the easy out shown in the other post. They are good. It's likely too tight to remove with a left hand bit. Go slow and give up or get good help before you get in too deep.



Kim
 
My personal advice is to RUN IT!!! THat's right, run it like it is. Of course, there is the possibility some exhaust leakage on a hard dyno run, but I'd bet a 2-liter of soda it wont leak for a while. I had 3 broken (stock) manifold bolts on my 91- two on one cylinder- and it never leaked in 70K. Held 40psi regularly. That would get you out of the 360 gas pig and back into the fuel sipping :-laf: diesel for the time. I figure if your head is straight (which we all can question, but that is for another day), and the manifold straight, you should be fine.



Daniel
 
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