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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Brother just bought a '94 CTD Need a Quick Run Threw Guys

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I swaped the air box today it was busted and I checked for a silencer ring but it was already removed.



I beleave its the P7100 Pump.



it has been tuned from what he could get out of the Seller



Fuel plate slid back

Pump Turned up

320 injectors ???

Shift kit'ed VB



Now I have heard many of a story about the KILLER KDP is it something to look at easily to see if its been taken out or what ever??



What other things should We Know about the '94 CTD ???



It misses under slight acelleration ... kind of sounds like a PUTT_PUTT tractor ... also blows black puffs of smoke while its doing it ... even at high way speed if you ease into the throtle it goes blubb-blubbb-0blubb untill you go WOT then its fine ... any ideas ??



Thanks Guys

DM
 
DM,



Getting a look at the KDP is the same work as tabbing it. Getting in there and putting it back together is the work. Installing the tab is nothing. Email me at -- email address removed -- for instructions.



The trans is a 47RH not a 47RE so the electronic transmission controller boxes won't work on it. No relay to fool with if he decides to installed a lockup switch.



I would check the timeing before anything else with the putt putt problem. See if you can find out was "Pump Tuned up" really means. If the plate is slid back and the injectors are big, that might cause it to act strange. Check fuel pressure when it's running on the road. It should be in the low 20s or above. If it's below 20 PSI check the overflow valve. It could be sucking air from any of several places. If the fuel hoses look like they are old or the original (crimped clamps) replace the hoses with good ones from LarryB. No electronic fooling around with the fuel system. It's all mechanical so you have to get the wrenches out and put the scan tool up.
 
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your may need bigger delivery valves in the pump... that would cause the truck to want to miss, but it dosent seem to correlate with what your describing, it would tend to miss on the upper rpm range, vs. the lower rpm range



by saying the fuel plate is slid back, i assume you mean it is all the way back tworads the rear of the engine, if this is the case, your getting the least amount of rack travel in the pump (less amount of fuel delivered), thus that would be a possible cause for the miss... also see if you can find out what kind of plate is in the truck. . is it stock or a different plate. if it is slid all the way back, try sliding it forward about 1/2 way forward, and you may want to wait till your get gauges so you know what your egts are at. and if your really brave slide it all they way forward. youll def. feel a difference in power



wes
 
If the plate is slid back it will not cause a miss. It would be the same as putting a block of wood under the pedal or having the AFC stick. It's just a throttle stop. The engine would run just fine, but no power. The fuel plate is only in play for WOT or close to it. I wonder if the description of "slid back" is just someone who doesn't know describing what we call slid forward. The only way to tell is to remove the AFC and take a look. If the AFC is removed take note of what the plate looks like as well as where it is. If it has two rivits it's stock or was ground from a stock plate. If no rivits and a big one or two digit number then it is an after market plate. Note the number if that's the case.
 
Will Do .....



Note some bad things that may or may not be normal on a "94 ...



Acellerator pedal is MIA just using the rod for now



Fan came off motor and tore the heck out of the fan shroud and the under hood stuff



BLOWN TURBO ... . Im not sure what turbo is on it now it has a plate under the intake hose but It was late and all I seen was Holset. and for some unknown reason it looks like a failed attempt to paint the turbo black with some cheezey heat paint



intake manifold (air horn) looks like it broke and has been welded back together just the support that protudes toward the front of the truck ... . I think the guy said its from the motor shaking ????



In the cab the stuff on the roof (fabric) is sagging along the windshied on the drivers and passengers side.





Other than that stuff its been repainted its now mettalic blue and it has a reese and a 5'er its 4x4 I guess I didnt mention that yet.



Thanks for the help so far

DM
 
The sagging headliner's nothing new. Nothing alittle adhesive spray (or duct tape for that matter) can't fix.



Hope the price was right, kinda sounds like this truck was run pretty hard and not maintained very well.



Nathan
 
Need a GOOD GUIDE for SLIDING FUEL PLATE where is it at ????



whats AFC and where is it at ??



How much to slide and which way ??



No grinding for now just testing the waters .



Thanks guys



DM
 
Well A day late and a dollar short it seems that the KDP. went killer already . .



Took some stuff out on its way including the case.



Well I guess I wont get to fix the KDP... . but I just got a



JIG or what ever you guys call it ... its made of D2 tooling steal and it looks just like all the pictures I have seen if anyone is interested I paid $7 it is really thick and strong . PM me .



Also



Were changing Turbo's



We have a 21MM Turbo Housing



We Need a 12 MM housing Will trade even up !




DM
 
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DM,



The fuel plate is missing. Depending on how long it has been out you may have some pump problems.



The thing you paid $7 for is a tab. The KDP instructions I sent has a picture of a tab and a diagram so you can make one yourself in just a little while from a piece of scrap. The tab does not have to be very strong. It just has to be in the way of the KDP so it won't vibrate out.



A jig is a bigger thing. It bolts on the gear case to guide a drill bit for installing a screw to block the KDP.
 
Theres not much to sliding the plate and adjusting the AFC. The AFC is the air fuel control housing. The AFC housing is behind and underneath the air horn (I find it easier to take the air horn off but it can be done with it still on) on the top of the pump. There are four screws that hold it in, one should be a tamper proof screw but thats no problem. You can take either a small punch or chisel and make a slot for a flathead screwdriver or a small hole to drive a torx bit into the head of the bolt. On mine I had to loosen the fuel supply line that comes in inbetween the pump and engine (it crosses over and attaches to the outside of the pump) so I could get to one of the bolts. Once the AFC housing is out you can take the plug out on the top of it with an 8mm allen wrench and spin the star wheel (you can run a search on which way to turn it as I can never remember which way to go). With the AFC housing off the fuel plate will be right there. It's held down by 2 bolts loosen them alittle and the plate should slide forward or backwards. When you put the AFC housing back on it will have some movement forwards/backwards (mines all the way forward). Reassemble in reverse order and enjoy.



Thats kind of odd it has a 21cm housing. Sure didn't come stock that way for sure. Go down to a 16cm non wastegated rather than a 12 cm.



Nathan
 
Well We found a 12MM housing and in about 6 hrs !!!! yeah 6 Hrs !!!! we swaped Ext housings the one that was on the truck was a 21MM it was not stock the stocker went out the tail pipe.



The KDP has done went and done it ... it has been TAB'd

I will keep the D2 Tab for a get-tar' pick if not anything else :>



The Fuel Plate is MIA Anybody have an Extra that may be grinded like you guys do ???



Not sure how Much $$ the fuel plates are but I would feal safer knowing the componets arent just floping around in there



If anybody wants a 21MM exaust housing PM me.



Truck misses @1200 RPM then gets ahold of its self and WOW!!!



I picked up a 7PSI carter and tomarrow we are going to PUSHER IT! I dont know if you guys pusher thses truck or not but Im going to try and see if the MIss stops if not then its $100 to get it professionaly timed . and just hope thats it if not a possible Valve Adjustment maybe???? Its been said when ever you put bigger injectors in a '94 it has this issue Does it ???



Just a note the Ext. Housing is a bear to seperate from the compressure housing ..... better have a pry bar a vice and a lot of Chill pills . Really Sweet placement of the 4 1/2 inch bolts GEESSHHH ! let alone the 4th one getting stripped . And also for another note Remove the Oil filter and the Oil return line ..... we just let the oil return line kind of flop around threw our turbo replacement Adventure and when we test drove lets just say Lets run down town and get a Gallon of Oil and lets not worry about the big stain in the drive way.



I guess there is really only one way to learn ... ... DIY



With a little help from people who know. .



Thanks



DM
 
DM,



7 PSI ain't gonna cut it for a '94. Not even close. The stock lift pump will make more than that if it's almost dead. Joe Donnelly made 800 HP with his old Sickly '97. My '95 idles at 25 PSI and my 40 PSI fuel pressure gauge is pegged lots of time. If there are no air leaks before the lift pump it will really put out the fuel.



The miss is almost certainly caused by something after where fuel goes into the injection pump. If the plate has been missing from some time you may have internal damage in the injection pump. A bad DV or injector can cause a miss too. Any problem in the fuel system before the injection pump causes it to starve and robs power. Not miss. It will run rough if it's starving but that quite different than a miss.
 
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well I guess it may not be a miss it FLUTTERS .



Got the pusher for free and Im still in the new to me mode so I will throw the pusher on if it doesnt hurt anything ???



New injectors I beleave they are 300's or something close/like that.



I hear other 12v truck doing it durring acceleration just not quite as bad.



I hope the IP is AOK dont say that... . :>



So when are you mailing me the fuel plate you have on your shelf ????



DM
 
WDimig said:
your may need bigger delivery valves in the pump... that would cause the truck to want to miss, but it dosent seem to correlate with what your describing, it would tend to miss on the upper rpm range, vs. the lower rpm range





I half agree, half disagree with this statement (from what i've seen). most or all 12valves have a slight stumble around 1200 rpms... can be barely noticeable to annoying.



HolshotHolset's 94 with bigger injectors (370s?) and delivery valves has a really bad stumble in the lower rpm range, then cleans up about 1500rpm or so. the truck jumps around until the motor gets spinning faster. he should chime in. .



the injectors would be 300s or 370s, unless referring to some EDM or aftermarket this hp injector + stock hp = 320hp.



DM, i may still have a ground flat plate i had in my stock pump if you want it... you would need to do the lever adjustment if you ran it forward (there's no fuel curve, just full fueling... more of a rack stop)



Tom
 
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The pusher pump may end up a restriction in the fuel system. The stock lift pump in a 12 valve really moves fuel. You need a fuel pressure gauge so you can get some idea of what's going on. Right now you are just throwing parts at it. I think you need to get that injection pump checked out.



If you have low fuel pressure then you need to look at the overflow valve and stuff before the injection pump. Hoses, pipes, fittings, fuel heater, pre-filter, fuel solenoid, and lift pump. Find the problem before you fix it.



If the fuel pressure is ok, then look at the injection pump, delivery valves, and injectors.
 
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