'Budget' Puller

[GO 4LO]

Well, picked up a new project this weekend - '96 extended cab longbed 4x4 2500 (913 pump). 5-speed already has the upgraded input shaft and dual disk clutch.

Aiming to build a puller on a budget for 2. 8 inducer class, and just curious what ideas you guys might have. Right now, I'm thinking:



Weld up the front and rear diffs

Gauges

Laser-cut DV's

4k gsk

370's

Hotter plate for the pump

Big single, HT3B/HX55/B2/H2 size

O-rings and studs

Light dremel porting on the head when I pull it

Traction bars

Cheap intake and straight exhaust

Street puller type cam (big as I can go without cutting pistons)



Any advice or other ideas to build power cheap? Know a place to get cheap turbos? (Seen 3B's rebuilt for $250-300 on ebay lately - not bad at all).

Thanks!

Chris

 

[RAMICATOR]

well for a low budget puller doesn't sound to bad. welding the front diff. is the only thing i wouldnt do, i know a guy who tried it on his 500+ ci altered stock gasser, he couldnt hardly how the stering wheel going down the track, sawing the tires by its self.

 

[strokerschmoker]

As long as you have power steering you will be fine with a welded front end. I too run an altered stock truck with the front welded and once you break the tires loose they steer good even with the power steering turned off

 

[DPS]

If you are pulling you don't wan't the fuel plate, save the money

save the money on lazer cut DV a set cut by machine all the way down for a 100 dollars exchange will do more.

you need good valve springs w/titanium keepers and a 5k gsk that runs about 4500 under a load.



ht3b is too big. use a h2e or s400 switzer right out of the box. both can be had for 5-800 dollars and will work well if you get the right one.



put the stack thru the hood it makes adjusting the clutch easier and you don't have to buy an exhaust.



KN makes a cone filter that goes right on your factory intake hose. not much of a filter but it keeps the chunks out. Or just don't even run a filter most big guys on the track don't



as far as a head gasket. keep the stock bolts retorqued and you might go a long time before you have to stud and fire ring it.



www.dieselperformancesolutions.com

 

[Got Smoke?]

put the stack thru the hood it makes adjusting the clutch easier and you don't have to buy an exhaust.

He can't run a stack through the hood for the class he's wanting to run.

 

[DPS]

which 2. 8 class can't you run a stack thru the hood. Dhra, Itpa ISFPA and most brush pulls only require the exhaust to exit straight up or down. no one that I know of prohibits a hood stack in the 2. 8 classes.



Is this for an ohio only class perhaps?



www.dieselperformancesolutions.com

 

[GO 4LO]

The DHRA 2. 8 class requires that you have the vehicle licensed and registered for street use. In Ohio, at least, the law for street vehicles is that exhaust must exit behind the passenger compartment...

Chris

 

[GO 4LO]

Do you have the PN for that K&N filter, by chance? Is there a 5k gsk available for a decent price? 4k one is nice and cheap, but if 5k were reasonable, I'd go ahead and do it. Thanks for your help.

Chris

If you are pulling you don't wan't the fuel plate, save the money

save the money on lazer cut DV a set cut by machine all the way down for a 100 dollars exchange will do more.

you need good valve springs w/titanium keepers and a 5k gsk that runs about 4500 under a load.



ht3b is too big. use a h2e or s400 switzer right out of the box. both can be had for 5-800 dollars and will work well if you get the right one.



put the stack thru the hood it makes adjusting the clutch easier and you don't have to buy an exhaust.



KN makes a cone filter that goes right on your factory intake hose. not much of a filter but it keeps the chunks out. Or just don't even run a filter most big guys on the track don't



as far as a head gasket. keep the stock bolts retorqued and you might go a long time before you have to stud and fire ring it.



www.dieselperformancesolutions.com