Building rear disc system

[nascar mark]

Finally had anough of the weak 3" drum brakes. Too much adjusting for what its worth!



Crawled under truck for the last time. Pulled axle shafts and took a look at brakes again and things didn't look good. Drums scord badly. Always had a problem with passenger rear drum from day one. Pulled axles before too see what the problem was years ago but didn't see anything out of the norm.

Rear brakes always tighted up and made a. b. s come on which made for longer stops and scary times in rain. The brakes were always hanging up.



So i've bought all the parts needed for a disc system yesterday. Went to local Napa store and pieced together parts. Just have to make brackets now.

Can't wait to install disc's and throw away drums

 

[K_Arts]

Could you possibly e-mail me a list of the parts that you had to purchase? I want to do this same conversion and am not sure what to buy or how much it costs.



Thanks



Kev

 

[backroad]

Disc Brake Stuff

I'm just going to butt in and make a suggestion...



Have you thought about using a mid 70's chevy 4X front disc brake set up. I believe that the front caliper brackets which are a 6 bolt mounting would simply bolt up to the Dana 70 rear housing and of course the 3/4 ton GM calipers would then mount up. Then get a set of rotors from the front of a first generation Dodge 4X and adapt them to the rear floater hubs.



This is the set up that I've researched for my 87' Ford Crewcab Dually 4X with the exception that I would use the same ROTORS as on the front of my Ford 4X front axle. Of course the rotor thing could probably use almost any of the 8 lug rotors from any brand X stuff.



I know I'll be doing this as soon as I finish putting the Cummins in my Crew Cab Ford. Lord only knows when I'll finish that. Only seem to get about a half a day a week to work on it. I really do miss driving my Ford.

 

[Paul Herioux]

rotors

The early 80's ford rotors will actually work better for this application. They have a deeper hat allowing the use of a straighter adaptor for the caliper mount.

JM2c

 

[nascar mark]

Paul is right. The ford rotor is better suited for the dana 70.



I am reluctant to give any part #'s at this time as there is 5 different rotor combo's availible for the ford and the dana 70 hub.



I can tell you it isn't cheap but will be worth it for sure, as those drums are a pain in the a**.

 

[boatpuller]

Mark,

When you do get this finished could you please post the part numbers for those of us that would like to do this conversion but don't have the time to do all the research you are doing, or is this something you are going to try and sell. Then I could understand your not wanting to post part numbers.

Thanks,

Caleb

 

[MidwestMotorman]

the master cylinder

Has anyone found the master cylinder that is correct for rear discs, using an off the shelf application part? Disc brakes need more pressure than the stock drum master cylinder can put out. Also the brake bias valve will need to be removed.

 

[nascar mark]

Will know soon if the rotor will work. Have all measurements except one [ offset ] as i have to cross fingers that it is the right one and won't know until i remove hub from drum and join hub and rotor.



Don't have access to bender anymore so i will be welding the offset in brackets as it will be stronger then bolting a spacer in between both brackets.



Will let you know how it goes.



mark

 

[Paul Herioux]

master cylinder

The stock master will work just fine. Have a friend that has been running his built up 3/4t Chev for 4 months now with rear discs hooked to the stock disc/drum master. Only thing he is planning on adding to the system is an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line to knock down pressure to the rear brakes when running empty. The rear brakes only do about 20% of the braking, doesn't take a lot of pressure to accomplish this.

 

[nascar mark]

No need for proportioning valve with A. B. S. system.



Now have off set figure so time to make brackets. Oo.