Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Buying a 24V - Need crash cource on what to look for...

[RSchwarzli]

In two weeks I will likely be buying a 24V. Having been around these trucks for long enough I know what to look for, but I don't really know "WHAT" to look for! Does that make sense?



So the question is, while looking at a truck, what do I check? I gather I will need to pick up a fuel pressure test gauge like this one to be able to perform a quick pre run, idle, and WOT test:



VULCAN PERFORMANCE - FUEL PRESSURE TEST KIT-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage





Then what do I need to check? Do I need a scanner to scan the ECM? What would I need to look for with it?



Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated! Last thing I want is to find an issue while driving the truck accross country on the way home from the South West!



Robert

 

[SRath]

"Need crash cource on what to look for... "



A 12-valve. :-laf

 

[SRath]

With a 12-valve I would advise looking for one that has not been messed with.

With a 24-valve I would advise looking for one that has already had the fuel system entirely replaced and upgraded, recently if possible, and save yourself a few thousand dollars. It's not a matter of "if", it's "when".

Other than that, it's a toss-up.

Note: This might sound harsh or flippant, but I told my own brother the same exact thing when he went Cummins dodge hunting. He bought a beautiful low-mile '02 quad cab 4x4 2500 with a 6-speed. Less than 2000 miles later, he had to sink $2000 into new/rebuilt fuel pumps. To say it soured his attitude about his new purchase is an understatement.

 

[Nigel]

Robert;

If it is a 2000 or newer you can retrieve the codes by cycling the key on/off/on 3 times and the codes are displayed in the odometer. There is a list of codes on the TDR site. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ine-transmission-faq/96634-24v-code-list.html Find out if the fuel pump is still in the original location or has been relocated to the tank. If still under the hood see if you can borrow a spare for your toolbox until you get home. Other than the fuel pump issues my 2000 has been quite reliable.



Nigel

 

[Mishkaya]

Make sure it's not a #53 block, has adequate fuel pressure, and no fuel pump related codes. Also make sure steering is relatively tight, or negotiate price accordingly to front end work involved. Good luck.

 

[Grizzly]

Don't get one that has been boomed or has a lift kit in it or larger wheels and tires then OEM. Also try for one from the original private owner. Ask for maintenance record.

 

[Chief USA]

Make sure it's not a #53 block, has adequate fuel pressure, and no fuel pump related codes. Also make sure steering is relatively tight, or negotiate price accordingly to front end work involved. Good luck.

53 Block FAQ and Information

 

[Chief USA]

If the truck is not a 2000 or newer and has a 5 speed manual trans. , check that the 5th gear nut mod has been done.

 

[jdross440]

Don't buy a 1998. 5 through 2002. They have too many problems: VP44, fuel pumps, sensors, dashes cracking. The list goes on and on. I have one and will never buy a Dodge again. My 1992 had been a great truck, but when they went to the 24V they have lots of problems. I have thought about driving my 2000 into the river I'm so fed up with putting money into it.

 

[Skydiver]

What year 24 valve? How many miles? Does it have a 5th wheel or hole in the bed?
I'm speaking as a 12 valve owner who reads the TDR forums.
Look for the obvious signs of abuse. Do the exhaust manifold bolts appear to be cooked? Look for condensation in the oil or on the dip stick. Check for excessive blowby. Look for bubbles inside the coolant jug while the engine is at operating temp and idleing. These are just common things to look for.
From what I've read it is very easy to install a plug and play tuner. More fuel=more heat=more wear=headaches. I know of two dodge owners here in my town that added the power pucks and did not install the proper exhaust temp guages.
Is this truck for sale by a dealer or private owner? Someone could have dumped a problem truck at a dealer.

 

[VHolloway]

stay the hell away from the 24v truck find a 12v with a clean body and go from there

take your time looking i have a 99 4x4 2500 that needs transmission work i'll sell you for 5k

the list of new parts i have put on this truck go on and on

 

[VHolloway]

12v with stick shift no auto trannys the automatic transmission suck bad

98 12v 97 12v STAY AWAY FROM 24V TRUCKS

 

[Skydiver]

My auto transmission sucks to the tune of 183,000 miles. Lets talk about the 5th gear.

 

[Regcabguy]

Don't buy a 1998. 5 through 2002. They have too many problems: VP44, fuel pumps, sensors, dashes cracking. The list goes on and on. I have one and will never buy a Dodge again. My 1992 had been a great truck, but when they went to the 24V they have lots of problems. I have thought about driving my 2000 into the river I'm so fed up with putting money into it.

Ditto on that. Based on the lousy luck I had with my '98. 5,I almost didn't buy another Dodge. However I tried it one more time and my special ordered '07 5. 9 has been super.

 

[John - K5AWO]

I have a 98. 5 and am very satisfied with it. Some work on it, but no more so than any other truck that I have had for the miles and work it has given me.

Overhauled the transmission with new valve body, torque convertor, new bands. Added an oil filter in the transmission output cooler line. a new radiator, and brakes. Normal wear and tear items.

Have put one fuel pump on it, and one VP44. That's about it.

 

[SRath]

You make all that sound routine and inexpensive, John. I would find those to be killer repair expenses. It's all relative, I know, but I can see an easy $5k being spent on those items you mentioned.

 

[Grizzly]

No matter what anyone tells you Robert , there's nothing wrong with a 24V, but don't get the first three years. Get a 3rd gen 6speed stick, like an 03, 04 or 05.

 

[KBrennan]

Make sure it's not a #53 block, has adequate fuel pressure, and no fuel pump related codes. Also make sure steering is relatively tight, or negotiate price accordingly to front end work involved. Good luck.

How do you know if it is a #53 block and what is wrong with these blocks?



Never mind I justsaw the post. I need to crawl under mine and check. I have been loosing colant and I do tow a fiver inthe mountains with a Banks Stinger kit. I am getting a sick feeling about this. There is 150,000 miles on it and thougth it would outlast the body when I bought it new in 98. Don't realy want a new one with all the junk they put on them but I need a reliable truck to pull that fiver.



What is the average cost of fixing the cracks?

 

[JBodenhamer]

Here is my take on this. I agree, nothing wrong with the 24 valves at all, except the 53 block of course.

I have an 01. 5 auto, 4x4, quad cab short bed. 146K and counting on it.

Watch for the lift pump being bad. It is the #1 problem and kills the VP44 pump. If you replace it with a good pump(I have a fass DDRP--the $200 option), and no issues, along with a $70 fuel pressure gauge that keep me posted if any pressure problems arise. If you get a truck with a dead pump, swapping it costs $1400 give or take if you do it. I did and it is easy. Great video series on youtube to help out. Takes an afternoon, literally. When you consider that a set of the newer common rail injectors cost about $2K to $3K and they have had some issues, it is actually cheaper with the VP. We never have the "dreaded injector knock" problem.
The auto trans is weak if you tow. I rebuilt mine myself at 125K miles because I added an Edge Juice with Attitude that was causing it to slip. Got the good parts to rebuild it and it cost $2500. Sure, there is higher cost if you have it done. Lots of these trucks have had trans rebuilds at this point, though, so you can get one with this already done pretty easily.
The dashboards crack in sunny areas. If yours is not cracked, get a carpet cover. If it is, like mine was, get one of the $120 molded plastic covers from Genos and you are good to go.
As far as the 24V trucks are concerned besides the powertrain and dash, the 01. 5 and 02s have 4 wheel disc brakes---MUCH BETTER STOPPING! Up through model year 01 has the Dana axles with the vacuum interlock 4x4 so if you want to do a 2wd low option, you still can. 02 went to American Axles. I have no other interior problems, all the power windows/locks/seats still work fine in mine, and the build quality seems good. I have a Mexico built truck, which I was told when I bought it was likely better than a St. Louis truck. This was just an opinion I heard, no science to it.
The 98. 5 to 02 24V trucks are by far the loudest of the cummins rams, so if you like this, these are the truck for you. I have a 4" silverline exhaust on mine and it roars, especially when it is cold.

Let me know if you have more questions. I have been happy with mine so far overall. Had it 5 years and lots of miles, with many more to come I think.

 

[KBrennan]

53 Block FAQ and Information

I looked at both locations ans all I found was the letter "A" on the passenger side and on the driver side under the injection pump by the large wire loom was another "A" followed by 30 and the number 2 under the A. All of this was tucked under the wire loom. Is there any other spots to look? I also did not see anything like the crack pictures. But since my truck sepnt 11 years in Wisconsin there is a lot of surface rust on everything underneath but now signs of any track marks.