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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Buying a 2nd Gen Ram: what to look for

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) campaign lift pump

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RDMueller

TDR MEMBER
Hi All,



I'm currently searching for a 97-02 Ram2500/3500 and am interested to hear what I should be on the lookout for. I would actually prefer a 12V, but frankly there just don't seem to be many available. I finally decided I need to broaden the search and include the 98. 5-02 24V models, but I'm concerned about VP44 issues and the 53 block.



Looks like it's pretty easy to determine if one has the 53 block. My question is, how important is it to avoid? Are the cracks a 1 in 10 problem or a 1 in 1000 problem? Also, anyone know what percentage of the 98. 5-02's have a 53?



Now, VP44. Just because the lift pump has been replaced or FASS installed certainly doesn't mean you don't have a VP44 on the verge of failure. I guess if both have been replaced (with documentation to show), you'd be pretty safe. Any recommendations here?



Finally, any other items to be keeping an eye out for when looking at a truck? I'm hoping to find a manual transmission to avoid the auto transmission problems, any problems to look for with it?



Thanks in advance! This looks like a truly awesome forum that I'm really going to enjoy.
 
Front end wear.

Do a search on steering problems. From the ball joints to the steering box, these trucks were weak. There are many after market parts to correct these problems.



On the 02 that I purchased new, it started road walking at 55k. I blamed it on the 40ft gooseneck I pulled - to much weight I thought. Looking back I think it was just the nature of the beast.

If you buy one, make sure the lift pump is working correctly ASAP to avoid and self inflicted VP44 problems. On the 99 I am driving now, the truck ran the same as it does today, even though the lift pump was not working at all. A fuel pressure guage is a must. Even if the lift pump is working, the only way to know that the VP44 is being supplied all the time is with a guage.



Good luck



Someone on the TDR might have a 12valve for sale - look in the classified. Maybe you could place a wanted add on here - in the proper place of course.
 
Thanks! I'll definitely keep an eye on the front end. Anyone know about the 53 block issues. What I really want to know is if most would recommend completely eliminating a truck with the 53 block from consideration, or just be careful and check to see if the block is cracked.
 
Is a 3rd Gen a bettery buy?

I asked the same question, you may want to read this thread: link



I have looked at several 01 and 02 trucks, but the issues that you brought up are intimidating. The 02 trucks I have driven seemed as loud as my '89, probably because the 02 does not have hood sound insulation.



After looking around and thinking about prices, I decided I had better have enough budget to buy the truck and fix the issues so I wouldn't regret the purchase. Some 3rd Gens have sold recently for under $10k. The 3rd Gens don't have the VP44 issues and have lots of advantages. You may want to broaden your search. Not trying to start a war, just sharing my thoughts. :)
 
I asked the same question, you may want to read this thread: link



I have looked at several 01 and 02 trucks, but the issues that you brought up are intimidating. The 02 trucks I have driven seemed as loud as my '89, probably because the 02 does not have hood sound insulation.



After looking around and thinking about prices, I decided I had better have enough budget to buy the truck and fix the issues so I wouldn't regret the purchase. Some 3rd Gens have sold recently for under $10k. The 3rd Gens don't have the VP44 issues and have lots of advantages. You may want to broaden your search. Not trying to start a war, just sharing my thoughts. :)



Hadn't actually considered it - I assumed they would be above what I wanted to spend. However, its sounds like that may not be the case. As you said, they won't have the VP44 issues or 53 block, but what about the front end and transmission? Is it generally accepted that the 3rd gen is just a better truck all around?
 
My 03 3500 was a great truck. I posted a lot of info on the TDR back when I had it. To sum it up, the 6spd was great - not any real problems, the rear end gave be some problems but I was hauling hay back then and running overloaded regularly, so I would not worry about that if you don't haul alot. The CP3 pump on it started acting up at about 150K. I was told it was a solonoid that controled the fueling - as far as I know that person who bought the truck replaced the CP3 and is still driving the truck. Front end problems were not an issue. A wise man on this site made a good point - the best indicator of how much a vehicle has been used, it the amount of fuel that has been run through it. I hauled so much with my 03 that I felt that I got less that half of the normal person's MPG over the life of the truck. So you could say that the truck had about 300K on it. I am sure that the CP3 had processed more fuel than a normal truck. I normally averaged about 7 MPG loaded and 11 empty - and most of the miles on the truck were hualing the 40ft. When the fuel pump did act up it was just during idle - a double dose of Power Services additive would lube it enough to make it idle right.



Good luck
 
I normally averaged about 7 MPG loaded and 11 empty - and most of the miles on the truck were hualing the 40ft.

Wow, is that normal for the 3rd gens? From all I've been reading, the 2nd gen trucks (both 12 and 24 valve) are getting at least 20mpg empty on the highway and maybe 15 towing. Obviously the towing numbers will vary depending on what you're towing, but the empty number is the one that has me scratching my head. That's worse than most of the V8 gassers are getting on a full ton. :confused:
 
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Mileage in my 12 valve is about the same as draymorris talks about. Heavy towing puts me below 10 mpg and 15 sounds more like my empty mpg. 4. 10s hurt my numbers I'm sure. Good luck on your truck purchase and remember that it doesn't matter if its a first, second, or third gen; just make sure it has 6 in a line. :)
 
I would echo others' comments and say if you don't find the 12-valve you want seriously consider a 2003. I've had almost one of everything, IMO the quality of the 2nd gens started to slip toward the end of their run. I would avoid the 2002 and '99s, the best pick of the 24V 2nd gen is to find a late 2001. You get rear disk brakes, less chances of getting a 53 block, and Dodge didn't start deleting items such as the rear tailgate applique, hood liner, rear cup holders, rear fender liners, vanity mirror, engine & radiator paint, etc. (all items missing on the 2002 model). The 2002 is also considered to have the worst VP44 failure rates (along with the '98s, some would say the '02s are worse than the '98s).

Of the 12-valve trucks the best truck is the '98 since you have the newer interior style, Quad Cab and shortbed option. But the '98 engines are a bit oddball (made out of 24v block, some had odd injection pumps) . . . the '96-'97 engines are best.

One minor thing I'll mention after owning a few Quad and Club Cab trucks. . . unless you feel you need the rear doors of a Quad Cab, get the Club Cab ('98 and older trucks). The cab is considerably stronger and you won't have the squeaks & rattles the Quad trucks often have. My '96 flexes less going offroad at 410,000 miles than my '01 Quad Cab did at 80,000.

On the MPG subject, my 2001 and 2003 got considerably better MPG towing than both my 12-valves do towing the same trailers/loads, for whatever reason. Unloaded they're all pretty similar.

Vaughn
 
On a second gen open the doors and look for rust on the bottom edge behind the salt retainer gasket:-laf



I am in the process of chasing the rust off again, this is my second go at it.



The front fenders behind the wheels are prone to go also.
 
Just want to say thank you to everyone for all the helpful advice. It is amazing how much I have learned here at TDR in just the past few weeks. I do like the 3rd gens, but from the searches I did, most are more than I want to spend. A late 01 may be my best bet. I'll try to avoid the 53 block - sounds like low odds of actually having it crack, but why take the chance. I'm not too worried about the VP44 anymore - if it doesn't already have them, I'll put gauges and FASS on right away, and if I did have to drop $1200 on a new VP44, it won't be the end of the world. Everything else that was mentioned will just require careful inspection so I know what I'm getting. Time to get back to looking!
 
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