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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Buying a new to me truck, need help

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Low Boost

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transfer Case problem ?

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OK, my old truck got totaled, a farmer in a flatbed pulled in front of me. Anyway, I found a 4 door quad cab 98 with a 12V in it. It has 119,000 miles on it, new trac bar, new seals on the front timing cover, real clean, new tires, nerf bars, rhino liner. Automatic transmission, original. The oil idiot light was coming on and off, so a real oil pressure guage was installed. I am taking a close look at it this weekend, I know to look for 53 block, check front u-joints. I have a heavy built transmission out of a 96, would you advise swapping them since this one has 119,000 miles on it? The truck did some towing, but not all the time. I do not know the gear ratio yet, which is best? I will be pulling an occasional horse trailer. I need some help, what else should I check over? The price is $12,000. If I get the VIN number, where can I look up everything?
 
The stock transmission could probably hold up fine if the HP isn't turned up a lot, my 98's auto is bone stock & doing great at 170k, truck used to pull a large 5-er for a total of about 15k miles. The auto for towing is lousy for 2 reasons: it's slushy, and the high OD gearing leaves a big RPM gap between 3rd & Overdrive. With 3. 54 gears you have to either tow at 66mph or faster in OD to keep from lugging, or in 3rd at a maximum of ~58mph to keep RPM in check. If you want to tow quite a bit go with the 4. 10 gears & you should be able to always tow in OD.

I wouldn't let the 53 block scare you too much, I have one, don't hear of them cracking on the 12-valves.

Vaughn
 
I have towed my travel trailer quite a bit with 3. 54 gears. The DTT torque convertor in mine takes care of the slushy business so the RPM gap is not a big deal.
 
Thanks for the help, I can find the numbers 17L7 does that make sense for a block number? Also, will the built 96 transmission fit in a 98 12V? I am worried about surprises, Please advise! Thanks in advance.
 
The '98 12v truck is a preferred model for a lot of people. I wish I had known the differences when I bought my y2k new. I probably would have looked for a good used 98 12v instead. I would say go for it if it hasnt been in any serious accidents and is in decent shape.
 
I want to say on the transmission issue, is that the 96 is a 47rh and the 98 is a 47re if Im not mistaken.

Same transmission just that the 96 uses hydraulics and the 98 uses electronic.
 
Thanks for the reply. Does anyone know how to get information on the vehicle by VIN number? I need to know what options it came with. We will be selling our old one that was totaled. Too bad, just rebuilt the transmission and turbo!
 
ask if KDP was pinned. Check radiator cond. see if ex manifold shrank/cracked, or worse broke tabs off head.
 
Thanks for the reply. Does anyone know how to get information on the vehicle by VIN number? I need to know what options it came with. We will be selling our old one that was totaled. Too bad, just rebuilt the transmission and turbo!



Find a friendly dealer and have them run the build sheet, that's what I did when I had my eye on a truck.



If you have a 53 block there will be a large 53 cast in the block above the oil pan on the driver's side near the front. . . can't miss it. If there's just small numbers, it's not the 53.
 
Find a friendly dealer and have them run the build sheet, that's what I did when I had my eye on a truck.



If you have a 53 block there will be a large 53 cast in the block above the oil pan on the driver's side near the front. . . can't miss it. If there's just small numbers, it's not the 53.



"53" may be hard to spot, on drivers side at bottom front of block sometimes hidden by wireharness or gunk. ;)
 
Well, it had the 53 block, but no visible crack. The owner knocked the price to 11. 5K, so I bought it. 98, 4 door with 109K miles on it, really clean. New tires too! It has the oil pressure issue of when it drops to 30, it goes instantly to zero. I has an after market guage on it, and it shows 25PSI on idle when hot. Does anyone know how to fix the issure of the alarm coming on? Thanks for all the inputs and help!
 
Sounds like an oil pressure sending unit. Not familiar with the '98s but my '99 had the sending unit go out and I went to Cummins and bought/replaced it myself. I almost wrecked when it came on since all you hear is the tone and see the pressure gauge go to zero the first time! You could probably call Dodge or Cummins and ask them how hard it is. Pretty common issue.
 
53 block in a 12v is a completely different casting and part number and is a non-issue... ..... Andy
 
I just recently bought a 98 12V myself and I'm not all to familiar with all the issues of the 12V. I know about the kdp but I hadn't heard about the exhaust manifold issue until recently. What's best? Look for an aftermarket manifold? What else can I look for to determine if it's been modified in any way? It looks pretty stock to the naked eye. I've had some other issues but that's been with aftermarket wiring that's mucked things up.



I think the 12V is a great engine and like it more than the 24V I had before. I kinda bought my current truck on a whim but I've been really happy with it. I considered selling it (I wanted a 4wd truck) but couldn't part with it. I'll just buy a cheap 4x4 suv instead.
 
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