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Buying advice requested

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2006 RAM Transmission Issues

Clutch Master Cylinder

I did some searching to see if there was a place on TDR where I could get advice on what to look for when purchasing a used truck.

I saw the FAQ's and read them, but the Buyer's Guide link is broken.

I'm looking at a 2006 5.9, and was wondering what areas I should be looking at/concerned with. Also, are there any good shops who could inspect it in Denver (preferably on the north side)? Would dyno'ing the truck give me enough information, or should I have a more comprehensive inspection done?

Thank you!
 
If you are a paying member the link should work. I just checked the link now and it did work for me. You can download this to your PC and than you can open the guide up.
 
If you are a paying member the link should work. I just checked the link now and it did work for me. You can download this to your PC and than you can open the guide up.
Thanks, I just paid my dues, perhaps it takes a little time to catch up. I'll give it a day or so.
 
Where did the truck spend most of its prior life? I wouldn't consider a used vehicle unless it has spent all of its life in low rust (ie no road salt) southern states. Once corrosion starts there is no going back. Here is a list of what has failed due to corrosion on my 2005 truck so far: rocker panels literally gone, tailgate, rear wheel arches, and bed floor perforated, coolant tubes on engine (one leaked (patched) and they all need to be replaced at the cost of several hundred dollars (not happening)), rear pumpkin flaked apart and started leaking (mig welded the leak shut (about the only thing spray on welding is good for)), PDC (its called a TIPM on the 06 and up) had a copper trace on the circuit board corrode through (patched), fan clutch wire corroded through (patched), rear brake hose crimp fitting rusted and failed allowing hose to blow off (replaced). The aluminum of the turbo inlet and the intake manifold are corroding. If the truck was worth keeping, eventually the intake manifold would have to be replaced. I'm sure there is plenty more I'm forgetting right now. I took a chipping hammer to the frame where others are having rust issues and surprisingly it was still sound. The latest failure from corrosion was the transmission cooler line and the truck almost went to the junkyard. Corrosion can affect almost every part of the truck. Fighting it is a battle that eventually everyone will lose. Definitely think twice about buying anything from the rust belt, unless it really was driven by a little old lady only on sunny Sundays.

If its a quad cab make sure all the functions on the rear doors work (locks, windows, speakers). The wiring is known to break between the B pillar and the door. I don't know if there is a way to check the TIPM but that seems to be another problem item on these trucks.

These are great trucks, just don't expect them to last in the rust belt.
 
The rust is certainly a concern. I don't have a lot of experience with rust in my area. I do have some mechanical experience, and from a mechanical standpoint, I offer the following:

Check for excessive blowby... remove the oil filler cap with it running. If it blows the cap off, there's an issue.

Check the exhaust manifold. These trucks are very sensitive to overheating, which isn't common without poor maintenace or mechanical malfunction, but it can easily cause a broken piston ring, which can take a while to rear it's head... look around the exhaust manifold for signs of oil residue leaking between the exhaust manifold and the block. It's appearance indicates oil being burned by that piston, which is a serious mechanical issue. It's also a good idea to look for exhaust leaks along the manifold where it may be cracked. They will appear as dark black/charcoal-looking lines along a rusty metal manifold.

Look for oil/fluid leaks. Obvious, in my mind, but I'm surprised how many people just don't think of it. Crawl around under the truck. On 4x4s, a front pinion leaking is common, but it can also indicate a vibrating driveshaft. Transmission leaks are common along the pan, but check for line leaks, as well, if it's an auto trans. There shouldn't be any red transmission fluid leaking from the engine area, or there's a possible issue with a seal that's very expensive to repair. Look at the back side of the radiator by the fan for antifreeze seepage and bent areas that may leak. On automatic transmission trucks, look for antifreeze up by the back of the engine on the driver side. There are rubber lines that are prone to leak from age on a heat exchanger bolted behind the block, above the transmission casing.

Engine oil leaks can be an issue, as well, and if it's leaking excessively from multiple points, it may indicate excessive blowby internally. Always ask for maintenance records, if they have them. A reputable shop that works on trucks can perhaps give insight to a trucks history, as well.

I've had a lot of bad experiences from aftermarket filters.... if they're not up to par, they can cause a great deal of internal engine damage. For air filters, K&N and most other oil-bath filters are on my NOPE list. I've got a box full of worn and broken piston rings that have come out from behind K&N products. If in doubt, pull the intake tube and look inside towards the turbo. If there's oil or dust there, I'd be leery of it.

U-joint issues are common upwards of 100k (or less if that particular one didn't get a full shot of grease at the factory before install). Push/pull on the front/rear driveshafts, looking for play, and look at the front U-joints in the steering knuckles, for wear and slack, if it's a 4x4.

Ball joints are another weak link to look for, so try shaking a tire in and out, looking for slack. This only shows up in the worst of cases, so to be sure, it has to be lifted off the ground and tested.

Look under the dash for any aftermarket electronics installed, and how the wire loom looks there. I've seen some really clean trucks that have turned into nightmares after the wirelooms have been mutilated from radio, programmer, and custom electronic installs by "less than professional...."
 
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