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Bypass filter oil return thru oil fill cap

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Gentlemen:

I'm installing an Oilguard bypass oil filter www.oilguard.com in my rig this weekend. Rather than punch a hole in the valve cover for the oil return line I plan to drill a hole through the oil filler cap and gin-up some sort of swivel fitting accomplish the task. I seem to recall that someone here has done the same thing. With the search function unavailable I can't locate the thread. So, has anyone else done this or have a link to the correct thread?



:confused:



Thanks.
 
I did it that way on mine. I bought a 3" piece of 1/8" brass pipe. I drilled a hole through the cap that the 1/8" pipe fit into snugly but with enough room to turn freely. I then screwed a 90* elbow 0n one end of the 1/8" pipe and inserted the pipe through the hole in the cap. I cut excess length off the pipe so that only about 1/4" showed through the bottom of the cap. I then screwed a barbed hose fitting (1/8") into the other side of the elbow at the top of the oil cap and the hose from the filter to the barbed hose end. This way, the cap is easily removable for oil filling and nothing ever has to be disconnected. Just one way to do it. I'm sure there are many others.
 
Originally posted by Ramboy

I did it that way on mine. I bought a 3" piece of 1/8" brass pipe. I drilled a hole through the cap that the 1/8" pipe fit into snugly but with enough room to turn freely. I then screwed a 90* elbow 0n one end of the 1/8" pipe and inserted the pipe through the hole in the cap. I cut excess length off the pipe so that only about 1/4" showed through the bottom of the cap. I then screwed a barbed hose fitting (1/8") into the other side of the elbow at the top of the oil cap and the hose from the filter to the barbed hose end. This way, the cap is easily removable for oil filling and nothing ever has to be disconnected. Just one way to do it. I'm sure there are many others.



What holds the brass pipe from pulling back through the cap?
 
Another option is to remove the valve cover and drill and tap the valve cover rather than the cap like I did. I didn't like the idea of having my oil return line (the engine's life blood) going into a swivel fitting into a plastic cap. Here's a pic of how mine's routed:



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Steve, your installation looks good and Oilguard recommends your solution (and even supplies the hardware to do it) . I just don't want to punch a hole in the valve cover, hence my original posting looking for an alternative solution.
 
I believe Amsoilman makes the adapters to run the oil return thru the oil filler cap. Look him up in the member section. Amsoilman posted some pics awhile back showing his by-pass install and the adapter he made to route the return oil thru the oil cap.
 
It's about a 1/4" thick where I tapped it. At least on my '98. 5 cover it is, as I understand it the later covers are a lot lighter and I don't know about the thickness of those. Chipstein - WAY TOO LONG!! It took me about 65 hours - I'd never do it again, but it sure looks good :D .
 
I did mine through the cap. I think you overvalved dudes have a different cap than mine.

Only problem I had was it leaked SLIGHTLY . Just enough to annoy me.

I got a 3" long piece of brass pipe,and threaded it about 2. 5" worth. This way the oil is way down the tube and the agitation/bypass wont affect it as much.

I also pulled off my drip/rolaids bottle off the blowby line. This helped too.

If I did it again, I'd get the special pipe someone wrote about that taps the return into the turbo return line. Think it was about $20. 00.

Eric
 
Steve is correct! I have had three different valve covers for my Ram: 1) OE '98. 5 silver/red Dodge/Cummins valve cover (about 7. 6 lbs. ), 2) '00+ black/silver Dodge/Cummins valve cover (JUST after they came out on the new '00 Rams... about 4 lbs. :eek::eek: ), and 3) my present cover... the famous Cummins "red" valve cover... although mine was NEVER red (at least it was never installed in its original "red" state)... my Cummins valve cover had the lettering and ribs milled off the top, decked, and meticulously orbital sanded with the lower peripheral strengthening rib heavily reworked prior to chrome plating :eek::eek: BTW, the Cummins valve cover weighs 7. 7 lbs.



Getting back to the reason I made this post...

the lighter (i. e. thinner walled) OE '00+ valve cover is substantially thinner in the raised area where Steve drilled/tapped for his bypass return fitting (****keep in mind Steve modified his heavier walled '98. 5 valve cover****). Personally, if I had the OE '00+ black Dodge/Cummins valve cover I would NOT install the bypass fitting as Steve did... the center rib on the top of the valve cover is quite thin. On the '98. 5/'99 OE valve cover the raised center rib is NOT "raised" to mirror this contour on the underside hence, a thicker, stronger rib (which is approx. 1/4" thick).



... just a heads up to anyone contemplating this installation.
 
I ended up stumbling onto a much more elegant solution. On the passenger side of the engine, at the rear of the block near the bottom, just above the oilpan are two "holes" which have been plugged with aluminum plugs. They are similar to "freeze plugs" but are not. The smaller of the two holes (and I suspect the larger one too) opens right into the oil pan. Coincidentally that small hole can be tapped to 1/8 NPT and used as the oil return. No oil caps to rework, no valve covers to puncture.
 
JPark.

Tell me more about how you tapped that hole. I just took a quick look and I think I see what you are talking about. The small hole is to the rear of the larger hole and looks just about the right size to tap without drilling. How did you do it? How did you remove the small freeze plug if that is what it is.

I posted this morning about increased blowby with a Frantz filter return line tapped into the valve cover. I seems like your fix is a great solution. Thanks

Tom
 
I was a little skeptical at first whether it would work or not. The hole is slightly bigger than one would normally use to tap 1/8 NPT. I think you would normally use a "Q" drill bit which is 0. 322". The hole is slightly bigger than that but not by much. Keep in mind that since this hole is CAST into the block its size may vary from engine to engine.



Anyway, I just used a standard straight tap (liberally coated with grease) after first prying out the plug using a stubby flatblade screwdriver and a small hammer. (The plug is aluminum with what appears to be red loctite on it. ) Because the hole is oversized the NPT fitting doesn't fit as tightly as would be required to hold a lot of pressure. But since it's just low (almost zero) pressure oil return, it worked fine. I just used thread sealant to seal it in. I suppose one could use Devcon or JB Weld as well.
 
I like the oil fill cap. It makes it real easy when it comes to getting an oil sample for oil analysis, and the chance of getting a contaminated sample is right close to Zero. I can modify an oil cap in about 20 minutes ready to epoxy, then it takes the time for the epoxy to dry, which I allow overnight.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
On the passenger side of the truck towards the rear of the engine on the block just above the pan flange, you will find a small 3/8" soft plug. You can remove this plug and press in a fitting which is 3/8" barbed by 3/8"male made of brass. I am not sure what these fittings are called, but they are used for the oil push to lock hose made by Goodyear. If you want to use this fitting and cannot find it locally, let me know and I can get it for your.



Also if you mount your filter above the return in to the block you won't get so much oil when changing the filter.



Dave
 
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Bypass filter mounting and oil return option

One option we like for mounting a by-pass filter is a bracket which bolts to the alternator bracket as shown in the picture below.
 
For the clean oil from the filter being returned to the engine, look for the soft plug on the passenger side of the engine near the back of the block. You will see a large soft plug about 1" and a smaller one 3/8" further towards the back of the engine. The 3/8" is a good place to return the oil from the by-pass filter tot he engine and avoids having to modify the valve cover or install a new oil drain plug. A 3/8" barb x 3/8" smooth hydraulic fitting can be pressed into the opening just as the dipstick is done.
 
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