Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Bypass OEM Fuel Filter Assembly

[henry_md]

I've read several threads where people have disconnected or bypassed the fuel heater and/or the primary screen filter (for various reasons).



Has anyone bypassed the entire assembly, including the OEM filter? I'm thinking about adding an inline filter assembly (like FASS, Air Dog, etc. ). If I do that, why would I want to keep the EOM filter?



Is there a fuel block available that I can use to connect the original lines and not cut the banjo fittings? I'm referring to the lines that are attached to the top of the OEM Fuel Filter housing.



Thanks

 

[BigPapa]

Unless you are in the ultra high HP range, I'd stick with the factory lift pump and filter. They're pretty much bullet proof, will supply plenty of fuel to @ 600HP, and are much cheaper than a FASS or AD.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Glacier Diesel has a OEM filter removal part. I had one, put it on and then reinstalled the OEM just another filter to possibly catch some nastys and also the water separator cant hurt. On my 04 why bother with a POS OEM fuel pump. If it hasn't let you down it will and if it has why would you want another. The factory replacement is in the fuel tank just what I want to do if it goes out have to drain the tank remove the tank or the bed of the truck and fix the thing. WHY??? JMO Glacier Diesel can set up any way you want good luck



BIG

 

[CKelley1]

leave the stock alone and do not add a pump. just add the filter's at the tank. the following cost $65 and that includes filters. we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is Wix Filter Bases: FleetFilter Secure Online Store



your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

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[henry_md]

Yeah, I agree about the pump prices. Didn't really want to go down that road. I understand that the lift pump on my 95 is pretty stout, so no need to replace it. My main reason for going down this road is to never have to do the acrobat dance again to replace the original filter.

CKelley1, adding the filters such as you did seems like a great plan. Thanks for the detail and the pictures.

 

[BigPapa]

I've found replacing the filter on my '95 pretty simple. I wouldn't say it's anymore difficult than the oil filter except for the spillage.

 

[rMetzger]

So the lift pump is able to suction fuel through both of those filters with no problem, or does the lift pump suction from the tank, and then a new hose goes back to the new filters, and another length of hose comes back forward to the OEM filter?

 

[CKelley1]

the pix were of tank mounted pumps. i have the filter setup on 12 valves like yours both ways. does not seem to matter on the mechanical pump. most of my heavy equipment is set up to draw through the filter. on electric pumps only push through the filters. some are notorious about air locking if you try to draw