C injector pump wrench from piers

[Tim1]

Maybe its just me, but this wrench just doesn't get it. So heres the fix, Put the 13mm end in a vise and heat just at the box and rotate the box in towards the C 1\16" or so and it will work fine. The fella who suggested a piece of flat bar for a lever, many thanks. Here's the scoop, 1\4"X1" flat bar 12" long. from one end in 1\2" drill a 5\16" hole 1|4" off center, then 3\4" apart drill another 5\16" hole off center the other way and bolt to bracket at the rear of the pump with (2) 1\4" bolts. Measuring the 1\8" is kind of difficult with the hash marks, but is doable. The motor sounded so much better after this adjustment. I may have leaned a little more than 1\4", maybe 5\16". Jbolt, will this be fine, or do I need to go ahead and put the dial indicator in it. Didn't have the time for the indicator now. Will tow with it to compare the resulting changes and will note. The only line that I removed was the small tube to the afc and it bent back easily. Sure runs good empty, want to tow with it. Thanks for all the input fellas, it really helped. Tim

 

[jbolt]

Hey Tim,



My total rotation off the factory mark was 5/32" This got me to 1. 5mm plunger lift. Did you really move yours 1/4" to 5/16"?



I believe nascarmark said you could not hurt anything by rotating the pump untill it would not move any more but with too high an advance you will loose top end power. (correct me if this is wrong)



Setting the timing with the gauge is a pain but once your done you KNOW where it is. I always like hard data.



I agree the piers C wrench needs some tweaking, I gound mine thinner to grab the top nut between the pump and head but for $10 I have no complaints.



Jay

 

[nascar mark]

High advance will only hurt bottom end. I have personally ran my truck with max advance and also towed heavy with it for 1000's of miles with no damage. The more fuel you have the higher advance you can go.



The wrench works fine but on some pumps you will have to bend over the fuel supply line to get at the top bolt better. On others there is lots of room. My findings are 70% of the trucks need a little bend.

 

[Tim1]

timing

Actually Mark, its more like 3\16" of a move. I didn't have my glasses on so i checked again. Your right, for 10. 00 that is a darn nice wrench. The sound of the motor sure changed for the better,did yours? Been thinking of the exhaust valve spring change and ehaust brake form BD. If I go that route, I'll go ahead and do the timing with the guages. Runs excellant now. Oh, by the way, am I the only one having trouble getting this site to come up? Sometimes down for days! Tim

 

[dpuckett]

more ideas

Guys,

Not to take away from the set up Piers is selling, but I always have used a crow's foot to loosen the nut on the bottom. A bit of a pain to get it on, but it works for me. I had a shop do a bad job on the timing once, and I bought the Crow's foot to move it back to where it had been before, and move it up a bit more.



Daniel



PS- How much should it be to get it done with the guages at a good shop?

 

[Tim1]

crows foot

Daniel, how in the world did you ever get a crows foot on the bottom nut, it is really tite with a box end, at least mine is. The problem with going to a shop that I found is they will only set your timing to factory spec which are a bit retarded for the emission folks. Maybe a few independents out there, but I don't know any. The adapter and guage are not that expensive as I've posted and if you have already moved your pump, this chore will be a walk in the park for you. 1. 25 is stock and you want to be 1. 5mm as I understand it. I still can't believe a crows foot, your good! Tim

 

[PPeters]

Daniel:



I have an appt with local shop to do dial timing job on 2/5. Discussed the method with the tech, he will locate TDC with dial indicator, then time pump with dial indicator. Quoted price: $85 U. S. I have heard prices up to $150 for the same job. I have heard good things about this guy, so hopefully all goes well.



Pat