Cab and Chassis vs. 3500 pickup

[THess]

I'm looking to buy a new truck in the next year or two and was curious as to the differences between a chassis cab truck and the regular pickup. I have a 98 regular cab now that started life as a pickup but I added a flat bed to it. I really like the flat bed and would like to put it on a new truck so I naturally started looking at the chassis cab. The only problem I found with this is the cab to axle length on a cab and chassis is a lot longer so the bed would be to short. A new bed that would be comparable to my current one would be $6000 so I thought maybe buy a truck with a bed and take it off to make room for the flatbed. Does anybody have any reasons why this won't work?

 

[HBarlow]

I have paid no attention to the Gen IV trucks so am not 100% sure if they are the same but I can tell you that the cab and chassis versions produced from 2007. 5 through 2010 were significantly different than pickups in a number of ways.

First, the C&Cs have much more substantial suspension under them and don't sag much under heavy loads like dually pickups do but do ride a little stiffer than pickups. The C&C uses different engine programming to deliver 305 hp and 610 tq instead of 350/650 like pickups, uses an Aisin six speed automatic instead of MOPAR unit, a 52 gallon rear mounted fuel tank, and has flat and level rear frame rails spaced 34" apart like all other MDTs and HDTs so that all aftermarket beds are interchangeable. The 2wd C&C uses 4x4 front end components and stands up tall in the front so that the truck is level unloaded or loaded rather than nose down like a dually pickup. There are other differences such as available power take off, unused switches for aftermarket equipment on the dash, wiring harnesses for aftermarket equipment, and a large ground lug at the rear of the frame. There may be additional differences I've forgotten.

I'm not sure but don't think a bed designed for a Gen II bed off will have exactly the same C to A length and fit exactly on a Gen III pickup. You could determine this in advance.
My CM bed cost $1500 new. With four storage boxes added under the bed, my fifthwheel hitch shortened by 4" and installed, and the complete installation and sales tax, the total was about $3000.

My 3500 cab and chassis does a much better job hauling a heavy fifthwheel than either of my previous duallies because of the stiffer suspension and carrying capacity.

 

[THess]

If my research is right from the ram bodybuilder's guide then my truck's ca length is 1" shorter than the new pickups so I think it'll fit. I like the cm beds but the bed on my current truck is aluminum and I'd like to keep aluminum due to the salt on our roads. The light weight is also a big plus for me. I will be using this truck for towing as well as hauling building materials so the thing I guess I need to know is are the suspensions in trucks SIGNIFICANTLY lighter than chassis cabs. Thanks Thad

 

[HBarlow]

Thad,

I cannot tell you specific spring rate numbers but I can tell you this: A Gen III dually pickup and, I assume but don't know, Gen IV pickup rear springs are longer than Gen II and biased in favor of a soft ride when unloaded. That makes sense for a smooth ride in a multi-purpose light truck.

However, when you lower the 2500 to 3000 lb. kingpin weight of a large fifthwheel trailer onto the hitch a dually pickup will sag four to six inches. After only a few thousand miles the springs become weak and rebound violently over interstate highway dips. That is the reason we see so many threads here discussing air bags, Timbrens, additional spring leaves, etc. Everyone who tows a heavy fiver with a Gen III pickup eventually adds air bags, Timbrens, or some other aid.

That was one of the main reasons I was initially interested in a cab and chassis. My 3500 C&C drops only two inches under the weight of my HitchHiker and the springs have not weakened or sagged.

The 3500 C&C is primarily designed for commercial duty with a heavy contractor's bed or similar load permanently mounted and run several hundred thousand miles. The 4500s and 5500s are designed for wrecker hoists, field mechanics with hydraulic hoists, compressors, and heavy tools and parts, enclosed cargo boxes for duty like furniture and appliance moving, or other heavier applications.

The trade off is C&Cs don't accelerate quite as fast or ride as softly when unloaded. I wanted a working truck, not a boulevard cruiser.

 

[WMoroni]

I hated my 2011 C&C. Loved the truck itself but hated the engine/transmisson programing. NO POWER, and if you tried to make it go it would run hot. Traded it for a 2011 dually pickup. Love it.

 

[HBarlow]

Thousands of C&Cs are in service performing very reliably. Mine has about 111k miles on it now and has never had a problem except a rear universal joint that was dry and sqeaking at around 75k miles. EB's has probably 375 to 400k miles on it by now with only a couple of minor problems reported.

I've never seen anyone else report overheating problems or lack of performance. I suppose it depends on what you want to do with it. The C&Cs are not as fast from stop light to stop light but sure don't have any problem towing heavy trailers.

 

[WMoroni]

I've never seen anyone else report overheating problems or lack of performance. I suppose it depends on what you want to do with it. The C&Cs are not as fast from stop light to stop light but sure don't have any problem towing heavy trailers.

Do a search in the 6. 7 engine/transmission forum. There are a couple people reporting the same problem. All are related to the 2011 trucks not the older ones.

 

[RVTRKN]

Also check with your DMV for possible extra registration fees like I have to deal with here the Socialist Republic of Komifornia, because of incomplete vehicle on the door GVWR sticker. I also almost had to pay triple insurance costs due to a true commercial application. I applealed with AAA and was granted non commercial use.

 

[mwilson]

Also check with your DMV for possible extra registration fees like I have to deal with here the Socialist Republic of Komifornia, because of incomplete vehicle on the door GVWR sticker. I also almost had to pay triple insurance costs due to a true commercial application. I applealed with AAA and was granted non commercial use.

Good point on the insurance, I got whacked back in the '90s when I built myself a one-ton service truck and got nailed for commercial insurance.



I was not using it for work but the only way I could have gone around it was to install a dually body and send pics to the insurance company.



After a year of ridiculous insurance premiums I sold it.



Mike.

 

[AH64ID]

I like the C&C's for the simple fact that you can get 4. 10's with a G56.

 

[HBarlow]

I initially encountered that with my C&C. USAA immediately issued full coverage insurance via email on the day I bought it but then kicked it back about ten days later when the VIN showed up as a commercial truck in their computers.

When I inquired they told me they didn't insure trucks over 10k GVWR. Duhhhh. I explained that they had been insuring dually pickups for me since 2001 with GVWRs exceeding 10k and probably for hundreds if not thousands of other members. A few more discussions and explanations and reality finally set in and they backed down and insured it same as pickup rates. Sometimes education is required.

 

[RonD]

I'm looking to buy a new truck in the next year or two and was curious as to the differences between a chassis cab truck and the regular pickup. I have a 98 regular cab now that started life as a pickup but I added a flat bed to it. I really like the flat bed and would like to put it on a new truck so I naturally started looking at the chassis cab. The only problem I found with this is the cab to axle length on a cab and chassis is a lot longer so the bed would be to short. A new bed that would be comparable to my current one would be $6000 so I thought maybe buy a truck with a bed and take it off to make room for the flatbed. Does anybody have any reasons why this won't work?

I don't see why it wouldn't work, you have a pickup now, I would recommend parking it next to a current pickup and start measuring. If your 98 truck is a standard cab, you will most likely have to have the same, other option would be could your existing flat bed be modified a little to fit on a newer truck?

 

[AfterBurner]

I've had zero problems with overheating on this truck; even running in the triple digit TX summer at 26K GCW, WOT up hills. It has noticeably less power than my 02, but that truck is bombed (and would overheat at WOT). Have not towed with a 4th gen p/u so not sure how it compares to them, though 200 more trq has to make some difference.

My trailer will squat a 3rd gen 3500 p/u, but this C&C doesn't even blink at the heavy tongue weight.



The DEF is a bit of a nuisance and doesn't seem to help fuel mileage; I get just as terrible mpg's as the pickups.