Cab Marker lights

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Has anyone out there installed the orange cab overhead marker lights on an existing truck? Specifically a 1994-99. I wish my truck had this option and I'm thinking of installing it myself but I don't know what kind of headaches I'm getting myself into.

Thanks,

Berserker

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99 2500 QC LB 4x4 Auto, Laramie SLT, driftwood. Cummins 24v w/ 275 HP injectors & Banks Stinger Plus kit, EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar mount, Prime-Location fuel filter kit, MagHytec Diff and Trans covers, EZ Change oil drain plug, BFG 33x12. 50x16. 50, Procomp 2” stage II lift-kit, Rhino liner, Smittybilt nerf bars, Warn chrome Transformer brush guard w/Warn12000 winch, Tow Hooks, Xenon fender flares & Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter. DTT's Valve Body & Torque Converter.

 

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I added them to mine. You can get a kit from the Dodge dealer. It's not that hard to install - putting a drill bit to your baby the first time is that hardest, it gets easier after that! The kit comes with a template and all. You have to pull the a-pillars off both sides and the overhead console so you can lower the headliner. I think the instructions said to remove the headliner but I was able to just let it hang down in the front and get to everything. I think my install took about 2 hours.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

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Berserker:

My dealership did this job for me for $175. 00, labor and materials. I took it in in the morning, picked it up in the afternoon. I was delighted with the result. I think it's one of the coolest "add-ons" you can do for your truck, and one of the most cost-effective. I love it because when I'm going someplace with my "ol' lady" (in separate vehicles) she can always pick me out of the crowd at night.

Apart from that (and the fact that they look cool), I really can't think of a reason in the world to add them. I decided to spend the extra $100 or so, because I was worried about warranty/leaking issues -- perhaps, unnecessarily. I figured that, if it ever leaked (you're making 5 roof penetrations) it'd be the dealer's problem. I didn't want to worry about it...

 

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Does anyone have the part number for these lights? My truck in particular is a 2000, don't know how much difference there is. Thanks.

Craig

 

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Easy job and the effect at night is well worth the 52. 00. When I bought mine, I was looking for the new flat style. I took the older set home and installed them in a couple of hours. I like the old style better now.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/000156.html

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/000239.html

243

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99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
Walker 21468, VDO, Bridgestone 285/75/16 MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500's

-- email address removed --

[This message has been edited by 243 (edited 10-31-2000). ]

 

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Originally posted by Sasquatch:
Berserker:

Apart from that (and the fact that they look cool), I really can't think of a reason in the world to add them

Sas,

DOT Regs. Anything over 80 inches wide is required to have the lights. The 2500 RAM stock is just at 80 inches wide, thus the requirement on the 3500's which of course are wider. Also required on the rear, which is why the 3500's also have the red lights on the tailgate. I noticed in the 2001 owners manual that they point out the need for alternate lights on the rear if you are running minus the tailgate. I got mine from the factory, I knew I would be adding an 84 inch (7 foot) wide aluminum bed.

Shelby

 

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I talked my dealer into giving me a set with the truck purchase. He finally agreed, so I went to parts to pick them up and they were the older style(triangle shape). They look better than the new style lights. I haven't put them on yet but plan to soon. Its on my list to do.

 

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I Put them on my 97 last year, When I pulled the headliner down, I found there was a roof reinforcement channel up there that had all 5 holes already stamped in, all I had to do was drill straight up through them with a 1" hole saw, no need for a template.

 

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Would really like to have the marker lights on my truck. But seeing how I'm not mechanically, or electrically inclined, I'm not going to attempt it myself. Been trying to get a bodyshop to do it, but haven't heard anthing from them.

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'00 2500 QuadCab SLT 4x4,5spd,tow package,3. 54,vinyl floor,rear slider,PIAA driving lights,Century "Ultra" matching cap,lost silencer ring. Westin "powdercoat" nerf bars.

 

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Shelby,

Thanks for your response. "DOT regs," says it all. Only a gubmint entity would require lights on the roof of your cab when the width (not the height) of the truck is what's used to justify the requirement in the first place.

I got 'em for looks. #ad

 

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Bill H. ,

I can understand your concerns. Ask your dealer for a quote. I've done all the work on my truck EXCEPT for the lights on the roof. I bailed out on this project -- totally chickened out. It was probably silly of me to worry, but I'd had a leaking rear "third light" (brake light on top and at rear of cab) which was a persistent problem.

My dealership spent lots o' money trouble shooting the leak. First they removed, reinstalled/resealed the rear window. Then they put two new gaskets around the third light. For months (during a VERY rainy period) my truck smelled like a wet dog. That grew old, fast. I'm an expert on ways to combat the smell of mold/mildew, now.

Anyway, they (at their expense) finally found the leak and fixed it. It would've been costly if I'd had to pay for it all. They even (finally) replaced the carpet in the truck. SO, when I got the urge to drill a bunch of holes in the roof of the truck, I had some misgivings. Years spent in remodeling have given me a healthy respect for water, and the amazing places it can get into. (Did you know, for instance, that water can/will "wick" into some "airtight" cavities?)

Anyway, this is not a huge expense. For not much more than the price of an oil/transmission service you can have your dealer install the markers and let it be their concern if there's any kind of a problem after the fact. #ad


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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.

 

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Thanks for the input everybody. Mission complete. 15 holes through my roof and 2 hours later (and a few swear words while trying to reach that dang connector) and I got lights! 8)

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99 2500 QC LB 4x4 Auto, Laramie SLT, driftwood. Cummins 24v w/ 275 HP injectors & Banks Stinger Plus kit, EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar mount, Prime-Location fuel filter kit, MagHytec Diff and Trans covers, EZ Change oil drain plug, BFG 33x12. 50x16. 50, Procomp 2” stage II lift-kit, Rhino liner, Smittybilt nerf bars, Warn chrome Transformer brush guard w/Warn12000 winch, Tow Hooks, Xenon fender flares & Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter. DTT's Valve Body & Torque Converter.

 

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Sasquatch,

Thanks for the dealer tip. I'll try that route and see what I can come up with.

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'00 2500 QuadCab SLT 4x4,5spd,tow package,3. 54,vinyl floor,rear slider,PIAA driving lights,Century "Ultra" matching cap,lost silencer ring. Westin "powdercoat" nerf bars. Rhino lined "rockers" for chip protection.

 

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Does this require a new headlight switch in the dash?

 

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No new switch is needed. It goes on when you turn on your running lights. If you already have an overhead trip computer then the installation is even easier. The hardest thing is reaching the connector behind the dash.

Berserker

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99 2500 QC LB 4x4 Auto, Laramie SLT, driftwood. Cummins 24v w/ 275 HP injectors & Banks Stinger Plus kit, EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar mount, Prime-Location fuel filter kit, MagHytec Diff and Trans covers, EZ Change oil drain plug, BFG 33x12. 50x16. 50, Procomp 2” stage II lift-kit, Rhino liner, Smittybilt nerf bars, Warn chrome Transformer brush guard w/Warn12000 winch, Tow Hooks, Xenon fender flares & Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter. DTT's Valve Body & Torque Converter.

 

[Archive]

When I installed mine on my 97 the connecter provided did not fit into the block under the dash. I had to run the wire down to the front side marker light. The hardest part is taking the center punch to your roof and bashing in 15 dents OUCH!
I also installed the tailgate lights at the same time and increased the draw across the headlight switch to over 12 amps. With the cost of that headlight switch and their common failure rate I felt it prudent to install a relay to carry that load. I checked the schematics and having the trailer tow relay does not affect draw across the switch with truck lights... it only allows the trailer lights to be drawn through the relay. Adding additional lights on the truck and you DO increase the possibility of headlight switch failure unless they are wired into the tow package. I purchased a bosch relay rated at 30 amps with a wired base for 12$. I cut the feed wire and used it to trigger the relay and all other connections can be found right at the wiring to the switch <such as a 30 amp + supply, ground>. I also rewired the switch so the cargo light comes on before the interior lights and installed a momentary switch in the feed circuit so I can switch the relay on and off at will so that it blinks trailer lights and truck marker lights as a thanks to truckers. I stuffed all the stuff into the space behind the headlight switch. When you pull the switch the relay, base, and wiring comes with it.
It's not a bad idea to add a little clear silicone to any holes on the roof to help seal them from water infiltration. I pulled the headliner down only in front after drilling all the holes and I even managed not to drill through the headliner. Of course, a drill stop helps. I affixed the ground with a 1/4 drive ratchet because of limited space and put it all back togeather.
I really think that the cab clearance and tailgate lights add to the appearance of the truck and make it unique and provacative. My wife thinks otherwise. She thinks the truck now looks like it's on steroids. I think my own anabolic steroids taint my view. What is it they say? Men are from Mars... Women from Venus.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

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Why is it easier if you have the overhead trip computer?

Dang... . I knew I should've ordered the lights on the truck. My other half didn't really like them, though!

 

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I wish I could help here, but I can't. I really, really liked the looks of the lights, and didn't know enough to try it myself. Therefore when I ordered my truck, it was the first option after 4x4 and ETC that I chose. $68 dealer cost and $80 retail. Best $68 I spent. Paul H. , good idea with the cargo/interior light. It seems silly to have the interior lights blaring when all you want is a cargo light, but I guess it prevents absent-minded people like myself from driving around with the cargo light on all the time if the interior lights are on as well.


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2001 Quad Cab 2500 4x4, Short Bed, Auto, 3. 54 gears, SLT Plus, Sport, Forest Green Pearl, CS, TT, 305/70R16 Cooper Discoverer AT tires on Stock Rims, Grizzly Double Bend Chrome Bars, Catch-All Front Floor Mats, Weather Tech Smoke Colored Vent Visors (snap into window channel, not peel and stick), Engine is all stock... for now. Line-X bedliner coming this fall...

 

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Dodge lights look too cheesey. Seen some after market with a chrome backer on them. Now those are sharp. Can't find em though.

 

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Does anyone have the part # for the clearance light kit from Dodge? I want to cross reference it with the one I'm having ordered from a body shop to make sure it's the right one.
Thanks, Bill