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Cab Noise, DYNAMAT???

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question, id like to quiet my cab down, im thinking of gutting it and dynamating the floors and the doors, for one, if anyone has doens it is it worth it, and for two, how hard is it to pull the carpet etc out?
 
I used B-Quiet

I did my truck and it did make a difference.



Here is a picture of the lower section apart.



I used what the company recommended on their web site.



Rolled it down with a small roller that they sell. replaced rivited roller pin with small bolt and nut... . you'll see.



Behind rear seat made biggest difference.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=4678&width=2





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=1172&width=2



Steve
 
questions.....

you used b-quiet extreme, how was your overall impression of it, how much quieter is it? and how long did it take for you to get the whole interior out?
 
Overall impression ... good product, reasonabily priced.

Noticeably quieter, 72db @70 mph on level road.

Didn't take long to get interior out, headliner was toughest part.

Putting it back together took a little longer.

B-quiet will send you a sample pack on request so you can decide.

Steve
 
Sound deadening

How many layers depended on where it was going.

Headliner 1 layer, doors 1 layer, floor one or two depending on where it was, didn't want too much or I couldn't get it back together.

Three layers on the rear panel, here iis a picture of what it looked like. carpet to the interior, jute and reflective glued together with 3M apolstery glue, then applied over the b-quiet extreme on rear panel. .

I made little doors where the vin# is stamped so it could always be viewed.

Steve
 
I have completed a fairly involved project in quieting the cab of my 2001 Cummins powered truck. I learned a lot of general soundproofing from the competition stereo guys, and I learned a TON from Greg the “Noise Nazi” from this forum.



If you are looking into really reducing the sound level in the cab of your truck, additional soundproofing will make a significant noise reduction. On my truck, I pulled the complete interior – less dash, and put down a “Dyna-mat” type material on the floor and rear wall (“Brown Bread” is the best product of its kind on the market right now, and is what I will use on my next project). I covered the “Dyna-mat” on the floor with a layer of 2 ½ pound per square foot lead sheet. I got the lead sheet from a metals house that supplies roofers. I glued CSI sound stop foam on the rear wall of the cab. I removed the door panels and glued 1” CSI foam on the inside of the door skins – all four (quad cab). I also covered the complete firewall on the engine side with 1” CSI foam. I removed the headliner and glued foil faced “Jute” to the roof of the cab. I had tried using “Dyna-mat” above the headliner of another vehicle, and had problems with it getting too hot and either falling or “liquifying” when the car (black) was parked in the sun during a hot California day. The foil faced jute works as both sound and temperature insulation, I used “Weldwood” contact adhesive to bond it to the inside of the roof. It has been holding fine for three years now. I insulated the “cowl” –the box in the engine compartment that the windshield wiper motor sits in with “Dyna-mat” and foam.

I wish that I had purchased a Db meter prior to starting this project. I did purchase a Db meter about half way through the project, and it really helped quantify some of the changes. Lead sheeting on the floor and CSI foam on the back wall were a couple of the best “return on investments” – from a time and cost of material standpoint. Covering the complete firewall with the CSI foam was difficult and time consuming, but I really liked the result.

In January of 2001 I purchased a “full Set” of blankets covers from ATP for the: Oil pan, Valve cover, Exhaust manifold, Turbocharger, Downpipe, and Hood liner. I had done some serious research into what was available, and was tremendously impressed with the quality of the ATP products. The quality of their products is Aerospace / Military. In 2 ½ years of use, and over 50,000 miles, the ATP products on my truck are “like new” no problems or issues what so ever. These are expensive components, and they really work well. I am not sure they reduced my trucks sound level by 24 Db’s, but they did provide a very noticeable sound reduction. Reducing noise at the sources – oil pan, valve cover, turbo, exhaust pipe (the sound that resonates from the pipe itself) The oil pan is a huge source of noise, for my truck, stock at idle, 95 DbC, after covering it, 92 DbC. A difference of three Db is a reduction in sound energy of ½! At first, I was concerned about over-insulating the engine, and causing heat related problems with the oil etc. . This has not been the case at all, marine and generator versions of our engines see far more insulation and work much harder that our trucks without any airflow over the block.



Now when my wife and I travel, we now talk at a normal voice level. We feel much less fatigue after a long day on the road. The stereo system seems to sound better now that we don’t have it turned up as loud. We have also noticed that much less heat gets transferred into the cab, from the floor, firewall, and roof.

I know this was long, I hope it helps.

Geoff
 
If you check my truck in the Readers Rigs section, I posted pictures of doing the entire inside of my cab. Floor, all 4 doors, everything except the headliner to date. I used the 1/2" SoundStop Super Foam from Great Southern Insulation in Florida. Greg Long [Lsfarm] worked a deal with them for TDR members, something like 20% off, but you have to explicitly state you are a TDR member to get the discount.



They have a new product out that is basically a Dynamat-like sheeting, I have recently used it on the rear cab wall (2 layers) underneath an additional 2 layers of the aformentioned 1/2" foam as well. Also a layer of this sheeting on the inside of the passenger side main door, the other doors to get some when the weather warms up next spring. I am also interested in using this on my headliner as well.



I also used one layer each of the sheeting and foam to coat my oil pan. That made a tremendous difference.



Tom
 
well there is another company called ATP that makes this stuff too. the have deadening materal that covers oil pan, valve cover, and other items, it looks like great stuff and should work BUT, for 400$ couldnt i just make the radio louder? Oo.
 
Originally posted by KRS

Tom,

Could you describe or have you taken a picture of your oilpan insulation job?



I don't have any pictures, but I can easily take some though with it being dark by the time I get home these days, it might be this weekend before I get to it.



But, to describe the process is fairly easy.



1. Wipe oil pan as clean and dry as possible.

2. The GSI Dynamat-like sheeting is self adhesive on one side. Cut pieces to correct size, and simply stick them to the oil pan.

3. I waited a couple hours, just to make sure the self adhesive was getting a good hold on the oil pan.

4. Cut pieces of 1/2" SoundStop foam or whatever material, to proper size.

5. I have always used 3M #77 spray adhesive with the GSI foam, so spray the previously applied sheeting with the 3M adhesive, and apply sections of foam to outside of oil pan.

6. I used a couple pieces of bailing wire to help keep the foam around the oil pan as much as possible, per Greg's suggestions when I spoke with him on doing the pan.



I did the pan about 4 - 5 months ago, and now have a good 10K miles and one hunting trip on the covered pan, and nothing has as yet worked it's way loose or come unglued :D



Tom
 
Hi Greg--



Well last winter I stripped the cab - put 2 coats of Noisekiller (liquid). This stuff gets like cement. Then, using liver killing contact cement, put 2 coats of 1/2" foam on back wall and passenger side and hump, 1 layer on drivers side. Also on back side of hood and both doors. This really helped. Then during this past summer while towing and running 55 in 3rd the floor was getting just a little warm; so put 1 layer of 1/2" foam ON THE BOTTOM of cab, from engine to rear of transmission. Also put turbo wrap on exhaust pip from turbo to rear of transmission.



This made the most difference, in perception anyway. It did not show up that much on the db meter. Now I can run at 24-2600 rpm and it does not bother us. Before it was just too loud.



I also have the ATP valve cover $175. My wife says that she cain't hear me come and go now;) The last thing I have to do is inside the doors and the engine bay or firewall



As far as the dynamat, I would not waste my money. Good for heat, Maybe. My preference is the Noisekiller and soundstop or 1/2" foam from JCW. It is all the same. Just get the best price; and keep an eye on the shipping charges - I got mine on-sale from JCW with free shipping:D
 
Here are two pictures of my oil pan covered with first one sheet of the new GSI asphalt-like material, and then one layer of their 1/2" SoundStop foam. It made the single biggest difference in quieting my truck - a HUGE difference.



Tom
 
After you put all the sound deadener on the oil pan, did the truck run any hotter.



have anybody covered the valve cover, if so will you post some pictures.



Thanks
 
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