Here I am

Cam swap, Pros/Cons ??

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Looking for vac line for boost....

trans drain plug

Status
Not open for further replies.
What are the pros and cons of the different cams on the market. I'm familar with PDR's cam but not anybody else's. What are the advantages of going with one brand vs the other? I see alot of sigs with the helix 1 in it. How do you like that cam. I notice most with it also have different valve springs. I'm more interested in driveability vs raw power. Just want some opions on the different camshafts available.
 
If you smog check or expect to be, a possible issue might be excessive emissions of NO (nitrogen oxide).



Well worth asking the cam mfg before spending $$$$.
 
If you are using your truck for street or daily driving helix 2 cam seems to be the cam most people go with and gets really good reviews. The advantage of adding a cam is you are suppose to get a little more power throughout the rpms do to the higher lift. The turbo will also spool up a little quicker. They claim better egts but from my experience haven't seen it wit the h 2. Different manufacturer's have different specs for their cams and most of them will not give up the info. You should also upgrade your valve springs but i don't think you have to with the h 2. I'm pretty sure that when you buy the cam it comes with the appropriate lifters.
 
You should only need springs if you plan on higher RPMs or maybe if you have a lot of miles.

Lifter or tappet replacement recomendations vary from one manufacterer to another.
 
You should only need springs if you plan on higher RPMs or maybe if you have a lot of miles.



Lifter or tappet replacement recomendations vary from one manufacterer to another.



Your springs are only good to a certain lift. Once you exceed that lift number with your new cam, you need new springs.
 
Your springs are only good to a certain lift. Once you exceed that lift number with your new cam, you need new springs.

Really! Never heard that before, springs will fatique over time and loose their original set or length and also become weaker than original spec but a spring by design is made to compress.

I'm not buyin'it.
 
All vavle spring will eventually get to the point where they get "coil bind" if they are compressed too much(the coils will touch each other). By design, the stock springs reach that point sooner than some of the aftermarket springs. Some manufactures recomend a minimum of 0. 050" between the coils at full lift.
 
Really! Never heard that before, springs will fatique over time and loose their original set or length and also become weaker than original spec but a spring by design is made to compress.



I'm not buyin'it.



What you should buy is a book on cams and valve springs. And try anwsering the threads instead of correcting everyone else's anwsers. When you buy valve springs for your unassembled head how do you decide if you should get a 500, 550, 600, 650 etc. lift spring? Maybe you check the intake and exhaust lift specs. of your cam? Naaaaa that would be stupid, and where did you ever get the idea that moving metal engine parts wear out? You must be a genius! I'm sure his are worn out on an 07 which is probably not broken in yet.
 
Last edited:
All vavle spring will eventually get to the point where they get "coil bind" if they are compressed too much(the coils will touch each other). By design, the stock springs reach that point sooner than some of the aftermarket springs. Some manufactures recomend a minimum of 0. 050" between the coils at full lift.

Coil bind is something I forgot to consider. I haven't shopped seriously enough for a cam to make calls so I don't know if they all need new springs or not. Maybe they do.

Tappets are another issue we could debate.
 
Hey SShafranko did U see any better mileage with the Helix 2?

I have heard from a couple different people that the PDR is the cam to get for mileage (which is all I am after) also one of the colt cams claims better mileage but no one has commented on it yet, anybody try it??.

James
 
You will not find many people who have tried more than one aftermarket cam so a comparative opinion will not be easy to find.

The only cam I'm aware of that REQUIRES an aftermarket valve spring due to increased lift is the Helix 3.

I ran a helix 2 on a stock turbo 06 and although I could tell it had changed I would not recommend a cam as a practical mod to a truck with a stock turbo.

-Scott
 
I wish I would have saved the money on the cam and springs and just did head work to make it flow better. I didn’t see much difference from stock. I know Olee is selling the Hamilton BIG Slick camshaft and springs for the same price as I bought the cam if your heart is set on getting a cam.
 
Your best bet is to read the discussions over on the Cumminsforum and compD. There are pages and pages of discussion...

FWIW, the Helix 2 doesn't increase lift any appreciable amount... and I'm not sure the PDR does either. The piston to valve clearance is so close that many have imprints of the valves on the top of their pistons... what you don't want is increased lift!

The Helix 2 does change valve timing and lobe separation. Dyno proven h. p. gain is only on the order of 15 h. p. or so via Tim Barber at TRE diesel. Main benefits are quicker spool, shifting the torque curve toward lower end rpm, cooler EGT, elimination of in-cylinder egr from valve overlap, etc.

--Eric
 
Main benefits are quicker spool, shifting the torque curve toward lower end rpm, cooler EGT, elimination of in-cylinder egr from valve overlap, etc.

--Eric



Eric,



Do you know if this benefit is allowing the 06 and up trucks to have clean engine oil, like the older trucks?



My 99 was very clean with OCI's of 5k miles.



My 03 was clean with OCI's of 5k miles.



My 05 and 06 are black at zero miles.



Damn tree huggers!:mad:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top