Camper battery charging wire

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Had asked about this earlier and got several good answers but was wondering if I should put a relay in line with the wire to the camper battery from the truck and what size should I use? Would a 20 amp be big enough or should it be larger and what size if so.

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's

 

[Archive]

I have the factory-installed trailer lighting and mine already has a dedicated circuit for the trailer battery along with its own fuse in the box under the hood (20-amp I think).

Mine's a 99 so I don't know if your's is the same, but I seem to remember my 95 had the same or similar setup (I towed a TT with both and I'm sure I would have checked this).

If you don't have the factory wiring (i. e. you're installing your own trailer light wiring) then I definately would recommend a good relay to isolate the drane from the trailer battery. I'd be temped to use a 30-amp relay with a 20-25 amp fuse "behind" the relay (i. e. between the battery and the relay, not between the relay and the trailer).

One advantage of installing your own relay is that you can switch it off the key. Then you don't have to worry about unplugging the trailer for fear of running down your truck batteries.

My opinion -- don't buy Radio Shack relays. I've had about a 30% failure rate on those. Switched to Hella relays (from Painless Wiring) and haven't had a single failure.


[This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

It depends on the wire size and length of the run. I usually run #8 wire from battery to a 25/30 amp fuse, to isolator (so it won't drain the truck battery when shut off) then to camper. On my 99 with Tow package I cut the Orange wire on the drivers side just behind the trany and added an isolator then ran the camper pig-tail to the bumper trailer plug

FYI - Camping World has a Tekonsha isolator for around $15.

[This message has been edited by BV (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

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If you upgrade you battery feed make sure your ground wire is as least a big! Camping world has a relay for around $12. 00 I spliced one into the harness in mine along with a 30 amp breaker.

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99' 2500 SLT, Quadcab, Long Bed, 4x4, White/Driftwood, Agate Leather, 4WAL, Auto, 241HD, 3. 54 Limited Slip, Bosch 275HP Injectors, Rancho 9000's, Air Lift Super Duty's, Hallmark Cachara LTD 9. 5ft Popup Camper

[This message has been edited by Terry (edited 07-07-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I assume you are asking about a pickup camper and not a trailer. I use the factory towing plug with an adapter to plug into my Lance. To isolate the camper battery when camped I just used a heavy duty toggle switch that opens the wire to the truck. Just have to remember to turn it on again to charge the camper battery while driving. Simple, easy and effective. Did I also mention cheap?

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Auto, BD Pressure Loc, Mystery Switch,TST 230/605, Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Whl. Also use 9. 5' Lance. NRA Life Member.

 

[Archive]

Flatlander, I recommend a HD solenoid which ties the camper battery in parallel with your trucks batteries, mine is fused in camper at 50 Amps I think. That 20 amp tow package relay is only good for the camper running lights (Keeps current off your head light / dimmer switch) A weak camper battery will charge off your battery / alternator when the solenoid is tied to the ignition switch.

Ron

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Int Blue, 6BTA5. 9, Auto 3. 54 LSD, PIAA Pro90's, RS9000's, Tonneau, Running Boards, 5K Air Bags, Hadley Air Horns, EGT/Boost/transmission Temp Gauges, Cobra / K40, Valley class V, Bugflector II, Bedliner, Tow Hooks, Cup Smoothie, Meg's turn-down tip, SS Fender Flares... .....

99 Lance 1110 Slide-On Truck Camper

 

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The 50+ amp solenoid relay is the way to go. Tie in at the battery. Trigger the relay with a switch powered by the ignition on wiring. Use a 50 amp circuit breaker in the line. Forget the OEM wires use #8 or Better #6 flex.
If you have electric brakes on the trailer, DC screw up with 40 amp fuse to brakes. When it blows--no brakes. wire around it with a 20 amp circuit breaker. They use breakers on the headlamps so you always have lights. Brakes are a must.


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1999 SLT: Quad Cab, A/T, bunch of goodies, Exhaust Brake, etc soon. Live in 30' 5W GCVW=18,000

 

[Archive]

The 50+ amp solenoid relay is the way to go. Tie in at the battery. Trigger the relay with a switch powered by the ignition on wiring. Use a 50 amp circuit breaker in the line. Forget the OEM wires use #8 or Better #6 flex.
If you have electric brakes on the trailer, DC screw up with 40 amp fuse to brakes. When it blows--no brakes. wire around it with a 20 amp circuit breaker. They use breakers on the headlamps so you always have lights. Brakes are a must.


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1999 SLT: Quad Cab, A/T, bunch of goodies, Exhaust Brake, etc soon. Live in 30' 5W GCVW=18,000

 

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My Lance dealer wired in a relay so the camper battery would be isolated when the Dodge wasn't running. Pretty good idea to keep the camper from running down the truck batteries when camping. There is a 30 amp fuse in the circuit to the camper battery.

 

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I ran an 8 gauge wire from the (-) driver's side battery terminal to the ground position of the 7 blade plug. I ran the hot 8 gauge from the 7 blade plug to the 120 amp fuse stud on the side away from the battery in the power distribution center of my 97. I just unplug the connector to prevent discharging the battery (I have a travel trailer). Seems to work fine.

 

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Joseph,

I too have run an 8 gauge wire to the back of my truck which I protect with a 50 amp fuse. It seems to me, given the way you have described your circuit, you're protecting the wire with a 120 amp fuse.

I have no professional electrical expertise, but a 120 amp fuse seems too big. Long ago, on another vehicle, I saw how quickly a short on an unprotected wire could heat the wire to incandescense - something I don't care to see again.

I would appreciate some guidance on wire sizes/fuses. Experts???

 

[Archive]

I think the ultimate way to go is with a battery isolator (i. e. http://www.hellroaring.com/) however, this is the most expensive solution. Electronically, the isolator will sense the battery requirements, and if necessary, will divert the entire alternator to the camper battery if necessary. This would be nice if you only plan to drive for 30-minutes to the next camp site (the camper battery will be almost completely re-charged).

I do believe that the solenoid switch is probably just as good for most applications and will most likely be the method I go with too.

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT+, 3. 55 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine oil temp. ), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, AND functional Halo light!
"Diesel, it's not just for breakfast!"


[This message has been edited by dresslered (edited 07-31-2000). ]