Camper battery wiring

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This may not be the right forum for this but I was wondering if you can run a 10 -14 gauge wire from the battery back to a battery on a camper to use it as a trickle charger for the camper battery then unplug it when stopped to camp and if so should you put a relay in between the two or what?

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab,LB,4x4 diesel, 5 speed, 3. 54, stock

 

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I think the common method is to separate the main battery from the auxilliary battery using an isolator. This will allow your vehicle charging system to charge your camper battery while driving. When you stop to camp, the auxilliary battery may be used without discharging your main battery. An example is shown at http://www.hellroaring.com/rv.htm#Basic Auxiliary .


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David Dressler
(Ordered) 2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, 5. 9L HO Cummins Diesel (ETH), 6-Speed HD Manual (DEE), SLT Plus, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, Camper Special Group, Trailer Tow Group, Leather, Sliding Rear Window.

 

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Go down to the local RV shop and talk to them about a solenoid to use for that purpose. Auto parts store should also carry the solenoid. I used #8 wire and ran it from the fuze casing battery side on the left fender to the solenoid, then back to the plug. Works really well and cost me less that 25 bucks.
This does the same job as the solid state isolators at much less expense.

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99 QC LWB 4X4 5 Spd Rhino Liner

 

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On other rigs I have added a #8 or #10 wire from truck battery to 20 amp circuit breaker to the battery isolator then off to the camper/trailer battery. With this 99 Dodge which has the factory tow pack, I spliced an isolator into the trailer wiring since it was fuses already.
If you don't use an isolator and forget to unplug the RV you could end up with a dead battery in the truck. Cost is around $15. 00 and a lot cheaper than a tow truck - IMO

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99 2500, QC, SLT, 4x4 ISB, 5sp, 3. 5xlsd, CD, HDTcase, Tow mirrors, Tow Pack, Camper pack, NW Running Boards and Mud flaps, Front Mount Receiver, Tekonsha Brake Control and Husky Liners, 11,582 miles or 24,418 mile tell BOMB.

 

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F**D makes a normally open HD relay for their camper wiring (at least they used to). Nice metal can with mounting tab. Wire the coil to a voltage source that is normally hot when the engine is on, and run the feed thru a fused source.

 

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Battery isolator is the best method. Can be readily purchased at marine outlets. Used to use set-up on boat for generator battery.

Jeff
97 ram2500 auto

 

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I am a tad confused.

I have the trailer towing package on my '01. I had the same on my '96. I haven't had the opportunity to check out the '01 but on the '96 the line to the "battery" connection on the trailer connector was controlled by a relay which was in the relay box under the hood, drivers side (40 amp, if I recall) which was energized only when the ignition switch was on.

Is it different on these newer trucks with the trailer towing package?

Darn I just have to get a maintenance manual -grin-.

Edited about 20 minutes later:

I just went and looked. In the power distribution center under the hood is a pretty big relay called the trailer relay AND a 40 amp fuse in a location with the nomenclature of "trailer" I am certain as I can be that these serve the same function as an add-on isolator and fuse setup.

My point is: If you have the trailer towing package, you don't need anything more -- unless I am very -- very mistaken. Just bring a line from the trailer connector adjacent to the hitch or splice into the wire at an earlier (upstream) place.

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-17-2000). ]

 

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The newer trucks with the tow pkg still use the factory installed relay.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner

 

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I have seen problems with the isolators,too much voltage drop so you might not fully charge either battery. I feel the relay is the best,make sure you use a fuse or you could have a melt down. Generally, #10 wire use a 30 amp fuse, #8 use a 40 amp. Also, make shure you get a continuious duty relay, starter relays are intermitent duty only and wont last.
Bob V

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'97 CC 5spd 4. 10 5spd 315/75 16,Bushwacker,TST 280hp.

 

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I wasn't real happy with the 1995 trailer wiring harness. The trailer brakes (light blue) wire was 14 gauge, as were the hot and ground leads to the 7 blade connnector at the trailer hitch. For 1997, these were upgraded to 12 gauge. However, I ran a 10 gauge wire for the brakes from the plastic multi-connector behind the left front wheel back to the 7 blade connector at the rear. I ran 8 gauge wires (be sitting down when you price it--as I recall, about $40 from NAPA for enough to do both leads) from the neg battery terminal on the driver's side to the 7 blade connector, and the positive lead from the 120 amp fuse in the Power Distribution Center back to the 7 blade connector. I used plastic wire ties along the fuel lines etc. to hold the wires securely, and ran the wires directly to the screw connections at the 7 blade connector. This system gives enough amperage to charge the trailer battery in a reasonable time (I think) since that is the main purpose of the hot lead in the trailer connector.

Hope this helps.

 

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Now I'm confussed even more than before. My 99 (with factory trailer pack) has the battery charge line in the 7 pin connector but it is HOT without the key on so I added my own isolator. Does this mean my relay is bad? or is this relay only used to run the extra lights and brake controler?

 

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BV and others,

You think you are confused? You have nothing on me!

It is to cold and dark to go out with a volt meter and check my '01 truck right now but, I did just go out and grab the package containing the 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor and read the enclosed sheet. It DOES have a warning that a battery isolation is not supplied and that the trailer battery may discharge the truck battery when the engine is not running.

On the other hand, I am sure I did check my '96 with a voltmeter and established that the battery connector was only "hot" when the ignition was on, and I do not recall any such warning in the '96 paperwork. I recall this vividly because about 4 years ago when I went through this with my then brand new truck -- I was very pleasntly surprised that Dodge had done such a reasonble thing as I had been looking at isolators big enough to handle our "huge" alternators. (they were very expensive then, don't know about now).

As soon as the frost is off the pumpkin in the morning I'll do the voltmeter test on the truck and report.

In closing, it occurs to me that maybe I don't have the slightest idea what I earlier wrote about. #ad
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[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-19-2000). ]

 

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OK guys now were is this battery wire at on the truck I have the tow package or at least I have the trailer wiring under the dash for the brake controller so please let me know.

Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab,LB,4x4 diesel, 5 speed, 3. 54, stock

 

[Archive]

I NEED A A SMILIE FOR EATING CROW!!!!

I guess embarassment will have to do -- #ad
#ad


I have twelve volts at the trailer connector "battery" conection ALL THE TIME!

What do I mean?

1) Ignition off or on makes no diference 12 v is present.

2) Pulling the "trailer" relay does not remove the 12v.

3) Pulling the the "trailer" 40 amp fuse does not remove the 12v.

So I was very - very Mistaken!

Now, what the heck are these for? My guess it must be for trailer controller brake amps for the magnets. Can't be lights!.

I don't have a service manual yet so I can't check on that.

Is the "battery" line to the trailer package connector fused at all? If so, where? looking at the nomenclature on the in-truck fuse panel and in the power distribution center it sure doesn't become apparent (if it isn't the 40 amp fuse in the power distribution center and that isn't it, at least, on my truck).

I guess I have been fat, dumb and happy for over four years with the '96.

Now I am a little concerned -- While I always disconnected the trailer any way I never imagined that the line might not be fused.

I think some one mentioned an isolator for 15 bucks. How did you do that?

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 02-19-2000). ]

 

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The "fused B+" lead to blade #4 (1 o'clock position) in the 7 blade connector comes from circuit A7, fuse #7 (30 amp; in 1995 at least) in the Power Distribution Center. I ran the hot 8 gauge wire from a post on the 120 amp fuse. I also ran a 10 gauge wire for the running lights (blade #3, 11 o'clock). The rest of the blades, using Dodge's numbers are: (a) 3 o'clock #6, rt turn; (b) 5 o'clock #2, electric brakes (comes from brake controller, not aways hot!); (c) 7 o'clock #1, ground (I used 8 gauge from the neg. terminal of the driver's side battery); (d) 9 o'clock #5, left turn. Color codes are: running: black/orange; B+: red/tan; right: brown/pink; elec. trlr. brakes: lt. blue; ground: black; left turn: dark green/red. Center post #7 is backup lights, violet/black.

Hope this helps.
Joe

 

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BV,Im just as confused. I thought I read about the isolator being install. I guess Ill need to reread up on that.

 

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To install a deep cycle battery in my Alaskan Camper I installed a 160 amp Isolator (from Camping World) with a 80 amp circuit breaker on my 00 Ram. The isolator fits nicely on top of the power distribution center. From there I used #6 wire as recommended back to the camper. Due to the current being transmitted I used a single 1/4" lug connection used on over the road rigs to carry the current. (Available at NAPA stores) No problems with voltage drop so far. When buying an isolator one should match it to the output of the alternator which is 138 amps on the 00.

 

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I guess I lied - JimO is using a real isolator and I'm using a solenoid. The solenoid in mounted on the frame near the transmission and wired into the existing trailer wiring that runs down the frame. I can't remember what I used to turn on/off the solenoid but it was under the hood near the distribution panel. Purchased the solenoid from Camping World for $15. 00. This acts like a trickle charger and was not meant to charge a dead battery. I have used this method successfully on 5 trucks.
If you want true charging capacity then go with the Isolator ($70-80)and wiring kit ($40-50) like JimO mentions above.