Camper tie-downs ?

[DPelletier]

Now that I bought a camper, I need to figure out how to mount the thing! I obtained an adjustable belly bar off of a 1997 Chebby, but it looks like our diesel tank hangs down way below the frame and I don't want the bar to be that far below the box. Any suggestions?



I'd rather not use a box mount system. What do you guys use?

Thanks

Dave

 

[dresslered]

Rather than wait for all the replies again, try looking here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53228&highlight=Tork+and+Lift

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48658&highlight=Tork+and+Lift

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39740&highlight=Tork+and+Lift

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20424&highlight=Tork+and+Lift



As you will find out, I don't have an opinion.

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks David. I'm trying to take a crash course in camper tie downs here! Several observations: My Bigfoot manual insists that it is a bad idea to use bed mounted tie downs on the front and frame (bumper - same thing) mounts on the back. Makes sense to me. I will be using frame mounts of some kind, front and back. Won't use the bumper as the factory bumper is a piece of **** and would bend in an instant. The ridgid torklift looks like a nice unit, but functionally I don't see how it would be any better than a rigid belly bar. Sooo, I guess I'll be using rigid frame mounts front and back with a rubber bed mat.

The real question is whether or not to use front turnbuckles with a spring or other method of give. I've heard conflicting opinions on this as some people swear by using completely rigid mounting front and back. My guess is that your advice would be to use the spring loaded turn buckles up front?

Thanks

Dave



P. S. Not all Bigfoots are heavy! 1500 series 15C9. 6 - 1980lbs dry through the 3000 series at over 3000lbs. Mine is in the middle - sticker says 2340 wet (water and propane) 25C9. 6.

 

[JWhitcomb]

Don't just go by the factory sticker, weigh it with all your stuff and water in it.

 

[D. Showan]

I bought my 9 1/2' Winnebago used and it came with a belly bar for the front and two pieces of square pipe that slide into the hitch on the ends in the back. I added spring loaded turnbuckles to the front and it seems to work fine. When I take the front bars extensions out you can't even tell the belly bar is there because the running boards hide it. When everything is in place they still only stick out a couple of inches. Works for me.

 

[DPelletier]

I realize that the sticker doesn't take into account options and the stuff I put in (food, clothes, etc. ). I fully expect that I will carry over 500 lbs of crap in the camper, but I had to use some information to compare camper weight before I bought one and so I used the manufacturer's sticker (rather than brochure info) and made adjustments based on any options present. The Bigfoot was not the lightest weight for the size of camper, but it was far from the heaviest. In fact there were several manufacturers which don't even make a camper less than 2500 lbs dry!

I was just responding to an earlier thread that said the Bigfoots were heavy. The 3000 series (used to be tagged Oaklands) are definitely heavy, but Bigfoot does make several campers that are among the lightest available. The 1500 series start at 1720 lbs dry and the 3000 series go up to 3331 lbs dry.

I will, however, weigh my truck with the camper fully loaded so I know how my tires and axle GAWR compare. Not that concerned with GVWR as I realized that virtually every 3/4 ton with a camper is overloaded.

Thanks



Dave

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks D. Showan

Sounds like what I'm thinking of doing. Just not sure of the pros and cons of the spring loaded turnbuckles

Dave

 

[D. Showan]

I would sure advise getting them (spring loaded turn buckles) for the front. They won't hold things quite as securely as normal turnbuckles but as things flex you need to have some give or you can cause some damage. You could rip the anchors out of the camper or you may pull the corner of the camper down. I pulled down the corners of a old coachman about 1/2 inch. At first I wondered why my chains had gone slack, then I realized why and I was not happy. This would probably not happen to a newer more solid camper but it will sure pull on those anchor hooks real, real hard.

 

[dresslered]

Dave-

If you can get the belly bar to work then go for it! The main point that the Bigfoot Manual is trying to stress is to tie the front to the same location as the back (i. e. frame mount both points). This prevents the flex which will save your bed and/or camper. I would recommend using the Happi-Jak spring loaded turnbuckles up front (the rears also allow a bit of flex) to relieve the severe stresses while going over uneven roads/terrain.



Did you happen to catch what happened to Earthroamer down in Mexico with the rigid tie-down method? Yes, he was operating under extreme conditions, but you'll get the point.

 

[Utah Willie]

camper tie-downs

I have the bed mounted front and the bumper mounted rear tie-downs for my 2500 lb. Lance 3000 Squire with extended cab. They work great! No... . I don't do the Baja 1000 in this rig, but I have had it in a few good twist and bend situations. The tie-downs themselves are spring-loaded. BTW... I've use this setup on two Dodge rigs..... no problem.

 

[RMH]

I use two rigid tie down bars mounted to the frame. I also use two sets of spring loaded turnbuckles. I have not had any problems and the tbs have just enough give for bad roads.

 

[Fast 1]

Check out www.stablelift.com This is probably the best option availabe.



Fast Coolers



Verlyn Fast

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks for all the advice.

I went with DSP frame mounted bars up front (separate for each side so that tank clearance is not an issue and the bars can stay fairly close to the bottom of the box), and I used some 2"x2" tubing on the rear which I slide into the side of the hitch. I also added some large rubber mud flaps which attach to the tubing to keep crap off of my cargo trailer. I am going to go with at least one set of spring loaded tie downs on the front and may go with them on the rear (haven't decided 100% yet!). None of the RV stores in town have them, so I have to wait until I go to Vernon. Oh, I also purchased a 1/2" thick rubber matt for the bed. I believe that the matt will protect the bed and the camper bottom and provide some serious friction to keep the unit from moving in the bed.

Now all I have to deal with is batteries, shocks and potentially, airbags, but those are different threads!!

Thanks again, guys

Dave Pelletier

 

[dresslered]

Sounds like you've got a great setup. The half inch rubber mat will work out great if it is like the horse mats that I am thinking of. Happi-Jak spring loaded turnbuckles are a nice solution and can probably be found via the internet if you can't find them in your area. The rears are fairly rigid and I believe use a polyurethane bushing. Keep the rears fairly snug while allowing most of the movement up front.

 

[Cobra]

camper tie downs

I have a coachmen slidein which is tied to the frame in the front and the bumper in the back. I have been very happy with mine.

 

[Boomer II]

Try this outfit, they have a frame mounted setup.

http://www.torklift.com/ Oops, I think somebody else already posted this addy.