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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission can we clean the inside of our engines

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Intercooler clamps

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engine flush is to harsh on the seals

but transmission fluid is a vary good cleaner

I thank I will let 2 qrt of engine oil out and add 2 qrts of type F transmission fluid run the truck 100 miles or so and change the oil

it works great on gas engines

if you have a lifter that taps this will stop the tapping

I learned this trick from a old man that bilt racing engines at his shop miller raceing engines

my 89 bronco had a very bad tap in it he told me i'm not going to take your money

you do not need a rebilt engine

so I TRYED THE TRICK AND IT WORKED

plus to keep it clean add 4oz Marvile Mistery Oil to each oil change

will this work in a diesel

the guys at tranmission shops use atf to clean there hands as well as parts

it works vary nice as a parts cleaner
 
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hmmm

My cousin used 1 qt atf each oil change and you could eat off the rockers at 86k in his keith black built 327 gasser. interested if it would work on diesel and what benifits we might see.
 
Seems like a solution looking for a problem. there have been at least 3 Cummins engines documented in the TDR magazine with over 1 million miles on them and none were said to have used ATF to keep them clean. In fact, I think they all used Shell Rotella conventional oil. That is all I put in mine.
 
The atf may be fine at idle but I certainly would not drive it. Not worth risking any damage to clean what may not need to be cleaned



Bob
 
I tend to agree with the above. I too have noises, especially at warm up in cold weather, that I would rather not hear. But, a diesel don't sound like a gas engine, and you can't expect it to. My tractor is a diesel, and has been running strong since 1975. You'd swear, especially using gasoline engine common sense, that the tractors got a rod knock. But once she's warmed up, it goes away, and I'll tow this truck with a 25000 pound trailer behind it, up any hill you can find with a road on it with this tractor. One of my nightmares is that this tractor gets away from me when I'm warming it up and takes out the garage and house and starts heading for the neighbors farm!!! Bad dream! Oo.



P. S. The top of the rear tire is just about as high, (within an inch or two), as my shoulder and I'm about 6 ft.
 
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the seals in your engine are not diffrent from those in your trans

trans fluid is a vary high detergent oil it has red dye added so that leaks can be differentiated from other fluids

products like saler's rislone will clean the black out of your engine as well

you can call or write pennzoil engineers and ask for yourself
 
Marvel Mystery Oil!

Add a bottle or 2 of Marvel Mystery Oil the day before the oil change, and get it nice and hot. Good stuff!
 
I dont know

Well not to start a oil war here, but my 2 cents dont add anything to the engine. if you change the oil on a reg-schedule and pay attention to shutting the engine down at operating temp. keep it simple keep it cheap. my valve cover is clean after 120k miles I use rotella and fleetguard filters. I dont like the fact of a oil for a transmission that has additives for a transmission to be in my engine. regardless it would take a lot of flushing to get the transmission fluid out of the engine. once this is done and I just dont know what its doing to the pump the filter etc. proper oil maintnance to me is cheaper in the long run. remember my 2 cents. good luck with your choice.



2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QUAD, WITH BHAF 4" SILVERLINE BD-X MONITOR (PYRO, BOOST)

TURN-OVER BALL, RIDE RITE AIR BAGS. EDGE EZ, JAMMER STAGE-3, FASS 95/FLOW PUMP, VULCAN 3/8 FUEL LINE AND FITTINGS, FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE, MOOG TRACK BAR. AND TIE-RODS, EAGLE ALLOYS ON 285'S, COUPLE OF STUPID STICKERS AND DE-BADGED FOR FUEL MILEAGE.



NEXT UP SOUTH BEND CON OFE OR A LUK GOLD AND TST P-MAX 3.



SOON I WILL PICK UP (HEAVY) SMOKING AND I THINK I WILL LIKE THIS HABIT
 
I use Amsoil engine flush in my engine,just did the kdp and with the drilling thought it might be a good idea to use the flush and change the oil. put in two cans and ldle at 1k

rpm for twenty min. drain and refilled I think the most important part to keeping your engine clean is changing the oil when your surpose to. use good oil. Don.
 
If you want to flush just throw a couple quarts of diesel in the oil, but don't drive the truck. Just let if fast idle for several minutes then let it drain overnight.



ATF tends to wash down the cylinder walls and reduces lubrication, I would not drive the rig if you put ATF in.



Engines that I've seen run synthetic oil are very clean, because of the higher detergency of quality synthetics. My '96 had a fair amount of accumulated brown film on everything under the valve covers after having been driven on Delo 400 for 350,000 miles (previous owner). After doing a flush with diesel and then changing to Rotella syn it cleaned it up quite a bit.



Vaughn
 
just had the valve cover off to do valve adjustment absolutely clean after 403550kms. never added anything to the oil,using rotella since new. doesnt use any oil between changes every 6000 k.
 
havent checked but i add 1qt of mmo to every oil change along w/ a good oil and there have been no problems will look at the motor after some time. i have heard tho that peopl add mmo to their oil and when they tear the engine down its clean and shiny like its new
 
As long as you haven't run way over on changes in really hot/dirty conditions with crummmy filters and cheap oil towing and such I wouldn't see much of a reason to try and flush out any sludge that MAY have been produced. Also, if you are running a lot of power, you may have a bit of fuel mixed with your oil from blowby, so I think you are good to go. Want some peice of mind still? Try an Engine Flush from a reputable company. Engine Flushes are designed to not harm engine seals. Back country concoctions are a gamble, no matter how good of luck someone has had with them.
 
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