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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission can we see some pics of the dash overlays

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would like to see what the over lays look like

once they are glued down

how well they fit

we are talking about the hi end plastic overlays that glue down

e bay has them geno's has them

if you have done one of these installs

we would like to know how it worked out

thanks#@$%!
 
I guess what i'm looking for is

do they fit and do they stay glued down

would it be better jb weld thim in place

I would think they would come up over time

please let me know i'm preping my dash with jb weld

it's cracked up bad
 
Here is a quote from my post on a recent thread:

I just installed that plastic dash on my 97. I bought a can of grey paint also. I JB welded the cracks in mine (no holes) while weighted it down to get the dash level (let it dry overnight) so the cracks don't stick up too high when installing the cover. Then I lightly sanded and painted it. It looks like OEM except the dash mounting screw holes were not drilled out on top (I think 6) and sides (1 each) so I drilled then out in case I needed to get the dash off later.



Then I lightly sanded the top of old dash and bottom of new, cleaned it with amonia glass cleaner (per instructions) and used the supplied tube of clear silicone adhesive to glue it to old dash. I barely had enough to finish it. Then I stacked weight lifting plates on top to weigh it down and used cardboard between door and sides of dash to get the sides pushed in to stick to old dash and left it overnight. It came out OK except I got some slight paint scratchs in places. I'm thinking of installing a dash cover to protect it now.



LMC Truck has what looks like the same cover already painted for about same price:



LMC Truck Parts - Page 70



The paint they offer appears to be better than the Dodge paint I got from genos. I ordered a can and will try painting over my dashtop while in the truck..... not an easy task by the looks of it.



This dash is easier than OEM but not sure if I'd do it again. Might be better to go the OEM dash.



Overall the Geno's dash looks OEM but not sure if the paint will hold up to scratches so Im going to paint over with the LMC Truck paint. .



Dave
I used the one from Geno's ($139) and looking at it it looks OEM but if you look closely you will see where it isn't stuck down in places... . like on the edges and near the windshield. The instructions said to not apply adhesive an inch (I think) from edges but it looks loose at the edges. Also they say not to put any adhesive in the center so it can flex. If I had to do it again I'd either just put a carpet mat on it or replace the top with an OEM dashtop and then a dashmat on that. Just my opinion which isn't worth much.



I had some scratches from frantically trying to find enough weights to get the cover to stick to the old dash... it took alot of weight to get it weighted down and then I got scratches on it that I noticed later. I tried to re-paint the cover this weekend with the "ColorBond" paint from LMC truck. It was a real pain to mask off the windshield down next to the dash but I did it. I found spots where the paint was not sticking and could be rubbed off a little in a layer. I think the ColorBond paint is better than the Dodge paint but I would recommend maybe using the ColorBond Prep spray first so the paint sticks better.



The dash overlay would be faster than the OEM dashtop but I'm not too impressed with it. It does look good and was probably an easier replacement method than OEM. Also, you need to drill out the overlay for the dash screw holes so If you need to pull the dash you can.



I took pics and will post later but it is hard to get a decent pic of it.



Dave
 
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There is a friend that actually had his painted, it really has the look of wood grain, when he stops by I will take a few pics and Post, I think the person that did it has a core that she just Circulates.

So dont buy one just yet.



JoeLee
 
Ok. . here are pics when I got the overlay (I had already painted it grey with Dodge paint):
 
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More pics... JB weld on OEM dash...completed after first paint of Dodge paint. . note how close gage pod is to dash. I had trouble fitting it around the pod. It would be better to remove pod but alot of work. These pic of completed dash are after the first install and paint. I could not get the pics of after the 2nd paint with Colorbond paint. I'll try again:
 
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nice job it looks good

how do you get the sides to stick

I would use some jb weld on the edges and sides

that may hold better
 
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nice job it looks good

how do you get the sides to stick

I would use some jb weld on the edges and sides

that may hold better
I took a piece of a cardboard box folded in half and closed the door while I held it on with the windows down and the cardboard put enough pressure on it to get it to stick. The cardboard was thick enough to fit in between the door and side of dash. I used 5, 10 and 25 pound weight lifting plates to weigh the dash down. It took probably 50-70 lbs of plates.



You have to work fast and be ready with enough weight on top to keep it stuck. Use clear plastic to protect the dash (I didn't at first) or you may scratch it. I just used the clear adhesive that came with the dash. Get some extra silcone adhesive because you will use it all. It was dash adhesive but look like the clear silicone adhesive you could get from hardware store. That adhesive gets stuck all over your fingers so be prepared to use brake clearner or water and hand cleaner to clean up your fingers.



I thought about drilling the mounting holes on the replacement dash smaller and using the OEM dash bolts to hold the dash down. I didn't do it because the dash replacement is not as stiff and tough as the OEM and the screws might tear thru the overlay and I thought it might mess up the replacement.



If this is the route you take I'd recommend getting the Colorbond paint and Colorbond prep (LMC TRuck has it) and do it right with dash replacement being painted OUTSIDE the truck not inside like I had to do later because I wasn't satisfied with the Dodge paint I used first. It's a big pain to paint the dash in the vehicle... . hard to mask where windshield meets dash... . REAL HARD... but I did it.



Dave



Edit: These last 3 pics are after I painted the 2nd time in the truck:
 
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:eek:It turned out ok looks real nice

my dash is in bad shape

we need to do something
If you are gonna use the rigid plastic dash replacement you might consider these from LMC Truck since they cost the same as Geno's but are already painted:



LMC Truck Parts - Page 70



Look at this thread also:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...discussions/198237-keeping-dash-cracking.html



You may find a cheaper dash on ebay but I used the black ones from Geno's and they look identical to the painted ones on LMC Truck and the price was about the same. I spent a lot of time painting mine (twice).



Good luck,

Dave
 
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Dave did an outstanding job on his pictures of install. I have the same unit that Geno's sells but bought it off ebay. It was the color match and ran me about 120 back then including shipping. I repaired my cracks just like Daves and made sure it was as level as possible. I put the overlay on and off quite a few times to make sure of some trimming and fit evenly without warping or buckle. To make sure it stuck I washed the oem with alcohol. I would recommend that you do this and scuff it with a paint scuff pad. Then wash it again with alcohol. Then follow directions of overlay mfg. . This overlay has been on for a little over two years and has seen temps from -15 (only for a week or so at a time) and up to 120+. No warping or lifting. I think you'd be happy with one and its a lot less than the oem replacement.
 
Do the original dash screws stick through the overlay. How about the VIN number? Is it visible through a hole in the overlay.

Thanks,

Dave
 
Dave, the VIN shows thru the dash. The screws aren't used, at least on mine, but the indents are there and I guess if you wanted you could drill the center and use them.
 
Dave, the VIN shows thru the dash. The screws aren't used, at least on mine, but the indents are there and I guess if you wanted you could drill the center and use them.
I drilled my overlay indent screw spots out prior to install since there was no holes in it. Then if I need to take dash off it will come off with the overlay. My Geno's overlay has a cutout for the VIN... It shows up fine.



Dave
 
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I just wonder if I have enough original dash left to use one of these overlays. On the drivers side I have a very large hole and the rest is severly cracked. JC

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Wow! those cracks are bad. This dash cover is semi-rigid but it flexes and needs to have a solid base to apply the silicone adhesive to. Mine opinion is if you can't glue the old dash together to be a firm base to glue the overlay onto then go with a new OEM dash top. If I were you I'd go for the OEM dash. It doesn't look like you can get that old dash together enough to glue the overlay on.
 
:--) Interesting that when I look at your dash mine started to crack in the same places. I just tried to stop mine and had some success so they didn't get that bad before I decided to go with the layover. I measured the dash temp on a day that it was only 80 out and the dash temp was 130. DC must not have designed the dash thick enough or allowed for the flexing these things must see. On a day that its 120 out the dash see's temps in the 170 range with my air on. I make sure that once I stop I put up a window shade. So far over the 2 years the overlay has been on there is no evidence of warping, time will tell.
 
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