Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Can't find anybody knows which is hole in ground

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch replacement labor cost?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Truck Profile

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi all, totally frustrated with this truck. Can't keep steers on the durn thing. Been to Bear Frame & Axle twice, also a hunnert your old shop up just in Michigan. Two sets of Goodrich Commercial T/A's in two months. Mich replaced lower ball joints with Moogs, next month they were wore out and they replaced under warranty, cept charged me for installing. I up one sized cause another driver gave me a 1/4 used set of Toyo M-54's. They've lasted longer than anything yet, but now after 50-60 grand are wearing inside & outside shoulders very badly and even starting to cup in the center different spots around the tires. Everybody that looks can't find anything wrong. Gotta be something there that ain't right. Rides different depending on different road surfaces. Sometimes smooth as a babies rear end, other times bounces horribly. I've replaced bout everything under the front end. Can't afford new steers every month. I used to say I wish whatever was wrong would just fall off so it was easy to see the problem and get it fixed. Don't no more cause right front wheel left the truck while loaded. These things don't make very good plows. Any 2WD experts out there got a cure for me besides pouring gas on it and burning? I'm 211 inch wheel base dually.



Cheers,

Steve J
 
Try checking the distance from left side, center to center on front and rear axle, then right side. Be precise on this. The center bolt on one side or the other on the rear axle may be bad. Also, maybe one side of the stretched frame is longer than the other. How many miles do you get out of a set of steer tires? I see something about 50 or 60 grand, if that is miles per set, thats not too shabby for front if you are not rotating them. If you are not you should. I also like to run toe in on radial tired front end at, as near zero as I can without toeing out.
 
Ok, I'll give it a try! First a few Questions..... What load rating tire are you running? 2nd... Do you have the two steering stabilizers installed? 3rd... Have you ever replaced the trackbar? 4th... Where is your larger fuel tank located? 5th... Where is your 5th wheel positioned in relation to the rear axle?



OTRPU I beleive that your transporting rvs correct? I've been there, done that. I have found a few things that make a difference when I was hauling. My dad is a furd man and transported with 6 different trucks. I ended up with a CTD that was a DOG and lived up to furds rep of fix or repair daily. With that said, I have a little experience on both sides. A few differences have to be noted here, I am a 4x4 3500 CC and a long wheel base, sleeper, although not as long as your rig. First was tire selection. These Cummins are heavy and adding a stretch to that makes them heavier up front. Tires must be at least load range E. The michilins that I bought my truck with were D's and didnt last 27k. Next set were E's and they lasted about 65k. No more michilins for me. Found Bridgestone M773swp P&D tires and 125k till the wear bar was fully showing. Fords are really hard on steers and dad found a set of firestones that lasted about 100k for him. You may be more interested in the firestones then the bridgestones cause your 2wd. If i can find the model will post it here.



I have a added steering stab. , that if it goes bad, i can get the death wobble and tire wear is increased. One is the stock and the 2nd goes tie rod to axle. Something to try.



If there is any movement in the trackbar , replace it.



is your large fuel tank in the front of your bed? or under the cab/sleeper? front end alignment should be done with both tanks at a little over half a tank full.



Lastly, I found that my 5th wheel was installed too far forward. I moved it back to two inches ahead of the rear axle center. That was better, but not enough. I replaced the 5th wheel for a heavier one, and moved it again. I centered the center line of the 5th pin with the center line of the rear axle. That was the solution that fixed alot of problems, like front tire wear, front end parts wear(ball joints, three sets), odd ride conditions and stopped the trailer bucking. The front end of our trucks has enough weight on it already, no need to add more!



I'm sure that any or all of these suggestions you may be aware of, but in my case it seem to be a combination of fixes over two years that did solve most of my problems.



Good luck,



CR



PS Have you changed you shocks yet? That helped alot!
 
Running Load Range E, inflated to manufacturers spec for actual weight per CAT scale every load, only one steering stabilizer, (new); 2WD-no track bar; 105 gal auxillary tank in bed, at front of bed; Easy Rider Air Ride hitch, mounted so pin is two inches forward of axle line. Will try the second steering stabilizer; almost ordered an adjustable track bar, (found out I ain't got one); will relocate hitch to axle centerline if needed. Have had about the same bad wear rate with alignments both full fuel and average 5er hooked, and half full no load. Shocks were replaced new, three shops tested them and say they're still good. I'll try anything. Thanks for ideas.



Cheers,

Steve J
 
Last edited:
Mundgyver, been thinking hard on a set of these, cept when I do tires don't have nuff to get them same time. Need to just buy them now and install next time I replace steers.



Cheers,

Steve J
 
I like mine. I have 51,000 on my tires now and still have plenty of tread left. The other thing I had done to the tires when I installed them was to have them siphed. It improved the traction and it gets rid of the the heat build up quicker which also prolongs the life of the tire. I no longer have cupping or scalops appearing on the treads or out on the edges. I also rotate the tires every oil change (7,500). :)
 
What? You scale every load? You cant be that heavy to have to scale them all. Anyway, was looking around tdr and seen your reply come up. Been thinking about it and the wear that you have sounds like underinflation? what tires are you running on your rig? Load rage E should be 95psi cold, I always run mine at the max cold. Do you rotate ur tires? Another thing to think about is that just cause they tell you that they "think" that the shocks are still good, dont mean that they're big enough for YOUR application. Dad's ford with the somewhat wrong size shocks tore up a set a steers in 15-20k. As much as a pain that it is, I would get that extra weight off the front axle when loaded, center that 5th wheel up! That made all the difference on my rig. Just hooked up last night to a 28,000lb trailer and once you get it moving, smoooooth at 65mph on the interstate! I just hit 300k mi with my truck last summer and started the engine mods. Everything full forward! Wish I would have done that when i was transporting! I like my truck again.



CR
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top