Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Can't find timing washer anywhere!

[JGheen]

Man, there must be a lot of people doing timing adjustments these days cuz I called three Cummins parts distributors(Cummins West, Cummins Cal Pacific, Cummins Rocky Mountains) and not one of them had a single injection pump gear lock washer in stock nor did their warehouses! Does anyone know where to get one or maybe if anyone has a stock at home or somewhere they could sell me one? I don't want to reuse my original washer as I have heard too many stories about timing slipping from one using the same washer when adjusting timing.

What kind of washer is it anyway? Can I just get one from Home Depot or OSH?? Can't be that different from an ordinary lock washer.

 

[SEmerson]

Any lock washer that size will work. I have done many timing jobs and only replaced 1 washer that was looking bad. If thay look ok I just reuse them.

 

[mikel]

Getting the gear and pump CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN will be far more useful to you than hunting all over the world for a replacement washer. If the pump and gear aren't clean then it doesn't matter what kind of washer/nut you put on there, the timing will slip.



If all else fails, go to a place that rebuilds these pumps. You should be able to get one there.



Mike

 

[JGheen]

Found one! But it is at the Montana Cummins branch. Went ahead and ordered it and the timing pin o-ring since the Cummins out here didn't even have that. Only $11 w/the shipping charge, oh well.



Thanks guys, Joe



I hear ya, Mikel, on the cleaning job.

 

[JGK]

JGheen,



Since you've alread ordered the o-ring for the timing pin, go ahead and replace it. The only reason I'd replace it is if it leaked oil. As far as actually using the pin, skip it. It's not that accurate. Mine was sheared off long ago an I've never missed it. Make a pointer out of a piece of wire and mount it under an oil pan bolt, determine TDC using the dropped valve on cylinder 1 and marking the damper, and use the wire pointer to point at the mark. I put my pointer under one bolt of the crank sensor above the damper so I can see it from above.



As for the lock washer, MIKEL is right, a clean shaft and gear are much more important. Just put the original in a vise and bang it with a hammer to offset the ends where its cut. I've timed mine at least 3 times and never replaced the washer. And yes, it is different than what you find at the hardware store. Hey, its a Bosch part, right? Can't be common!



To clean the pump taper and gear properly, we learned to hose it good with brake cleaner using a tiny flexible tube on the can of cleaner to spray it in between the gear and the shaft, then blow it out good with a compressed air. Do this 3 times. Once that nut is torqued down to 150 lbs or so, that gear isn't going to move if the shaft and gear are clean and dry. You can torque the nut to only 10 or 15 lbs and the pump will turn with the engine while barring it over with the barring tool.



-Jay