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Archived can't get 12v to prime

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I finished up installing a new cam and replacing the cam housing on a friends 12v and now I can't get the fuel system bled. He has a 97. I loosened the bleed screw on top of the fuel canister and was able to get a little fuel and a little air out of it when pushing the primer. When i quit working on it I could not get any fuel out of it with the engine cranking or by manualy trying to prime it. I felt the black rubber hose on the lift and it felt like it was pressurized. What should I do next? My gut says it may be the lift pump but I don't know why the black hose would have pressure. We did have the pump out to change the cam so maybe it got banged and broke or something? any ideas?

Matt
 
Try cracking open each injector line 1 at a time while cranking it and see if fuel will come out. Be very careful and wear safety glasses as it comes out at extremly high pressure.
 
If you have compressed air warp a rag around a blow gun and use it to pressurize the fuel tank through the fill spout. Does a mush faster job and sure beats pumping the button.

If that doesn't get it do as Deezel said. I usually crack open three lines at the injectors at once, crank the engine till fuel appears then close them. The engine will usually start but run rough till the air works it's way out.
 
I cracked the injector lines yesterday and could not get anything. I usually can just crack the lines and that works but not this time. I'll try pressurizing the fuel tank. Matt
 
I think I have read on here that there is a plunger or piston that operates the lift pump that can fall out if you are not careful. If you don't have fuel at the inlet side of the fuel filter when the engine is cranking then the lift pump is not doing it's job. If this is the case, then maybe you should remove the lift pump and check to see if the plunger is where it is supposed to be. It may be in the pan.
 
My friend went ahead and replaced the lift pump and he said that he got it primed finally. He said that he is getting fuel now shooting out the injector lines. Only problem is the truck still won't start. :mad: Now I got to figure out what else is wrong. He said when they use either the can get it to fire but other wise it just cranks and gives a puff of white smoke. I am pretty sure I got the timing set correct at 16. 5. I hope that the cam was put in correctly. I'm now starting to get worried. I'm at school but I'll be going home wendsday to check the timing. Is there any thing I can check to make sure the cam is set right(compression?). That's the only thing else I can think of to be the possible cause if the timing is correct. Matt
 
You can check to see if the cam is set correctly by finding TDC on #1. Since you don't know if the valves are timed correctly you will need to check for TDC with a dial indicator on the piston top with the #1 injector removed. Or take the head off and find it that way with a dial indicator. You want to find the point where the piston stops rising on the compression stroke and the point where the piston starts dropping on the power stroke. It's best to mark a point on the crank shaft damper . 020" or so of piston travel before the piston reaches the top and after it starts down. Halfway between these points is TDC. If the valves are timed correctly at TDC on #1 both valve rocker arms on #1 should be loose and both valve rocker arms on #6 should be tight.
 
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I went and visited doug today at EEP and he said that since I retarded the cam one tooth I need to find TDC with the piston and not the timing pin in order to correctly time it and set the valves. The cam I bought from them said I needed to retard it one tooth. He said that I would be off about 14degrees going off the timig pin. I'll go home and try that tommorw night. Matt
 
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