Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Can't get Trac Bar Off...

[USMCBay]

Okay - doing the '03 Conversion on my '97... I unbolted the rubber bushing on the passenger side (F) no problem - then I pulled the nut from the driver side ball joint (7) and cannot get it out for nothing - I have beaten, pryed, and tried grinding the bolt off but gave up until I know what it is that I am doing wrong. I even lifted the passenger end so that it wouldn't be in a bind...



Any help greatly appreciated... A torch is next.



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[JSTreeman]

Have you tried a pickle fork?

 

[EKlem]

I used a combination of a pickle fork and beating on the end of the bolt(with the nut on it of course). It will come, be patient. Have you used a lot of pb blaster or any other true penetrating oil yet? I would just keep soaking it in that and then go to the great big hammer. To get a better swing, remove the left wheel and use a large drift or something so that you are not swinging in the wheel well. There really is no substitute for hammer weight.

 

[Dave M]

I did the 3rd gen conversion on my 97 and used a pickle fork to pop off the frame end. I don't remember having any issues but its been 2-3 years ago.

 

[USMCBay]

I think the pnuematic version just might get it...



It seems to be unanimous.



Harbor Freight and Northern Tool have them for around $11.



I'll let you know.

 

[kenny61]

Whack the flat spot on the piece that attaches to the frame with a hammer 3 or 4 blows always works for me. Looks like the proper spot would be where the top of your number 7 is.

 

[RHestand]

Ditto on what kenny61 says.

The first time I tried this method, I was skeptical, then amazed at how well it works.

Ray

 

[USMCBay]

Roger that on whacking the flat spot... Oo. I see where you both are talking about. I really appreciate this. It is very seldom I run out of ideas or can't seem to solve it myself but hey... it happens.

 

[JJanetka]

I used a little heat after beating on both the joint and the mount and it popped right out.

 

[RJWEST]

Pickle fork, wedge it in, rap the top nut:
repeat procedure a few times , it will pop off.

NAPA, sells the forks, about 8 bucks,
I was not sure of correct size .
They sold me both and told me to bring back the 'unused' one

 

[USMCBay]

I am heading out this morning to get the Pickle Fork...



I will let you know how it goes...



Thanks again



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UPDATE: Got it off with the Hammer Version of the Pickle Fork... the pnuematic version of it was worthless for this. I hammered it in with a 4lb sledge... tapped the top bolt with a solid bar and sledge and it broke loose and hammered out with a few more hits.



Thanks for all the info... it sure helps save the nerves.



I'll have to post photos of my new 03 Trac Bar after the wire well clean up, sanded it down, then the hammered Silver paint job. Looks great!

 

[USMCBay]

Here are the photos of my reworked and my removed Trac Bars...



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[USMCBay]

Okay - got the Trac Bar Mounted. The DSS installed and the Conversion bracket that needs the Center Bolt drilled out because it didn't line up with the Manufacturers bolt hole... honestly I would have to blame Dodge on this and not Solid Steel Industries because there are two hole to be lined up before they welded their OEM Trac Bar mount - and they missed it by a mile - or at least a quarter-inch. So all is completed in 3hrs that is including set up, mounting, and breakdown. With the hole that still needs to be drilled. So much for the test drive. #@$%!

 

[RJWEST]

which hole, if i remember , the hole that goes straight up through the frame goes up at a slight angle with no real hole at top.
just an opening, and bolt goes down,with minimal clearance for steering shaft.

 

[USMCBay]

which hole, if i remember , the hole that goes straight up through the frame goes up at a slight angle with no real hole at top.

just an opening, and bolt goes down,with minimal clearance for steering shaft.

Correcto! but the bottom hole is actuall two holes that are: (1) the bottom crossmember frame hole and (2) the hole through the stock plate welded to the crossmember that is supposed to be lined up with #1. The two holes are layered but misaligned. If they were aligned I probably would not have ever noticed there are two layers of iron to go through. And your right the top hole is a big elongated hole with no real purpose and has nothing to do with my problem.



Just imagine two washer in your fingertips and you slide them 1/4" misaligned... that is what I have. I wollowed it out so that the bolt goes through but now with the bracket on (a third layer) it is not lined up with the wollowed out hole... blah blah blah - it sucks some Autoworker just threw it together on a late Friday Evening thats the bottom line#@$%!!



I will have it finished today...

 

[Lil' Dog]

I had to hog out the hole on mine too. . The welding was slumped into the hole. Be sure that you have adequate clearance at the top near the steering shaft.

 

[RJWEST]

understand, Hang in there, The results are worth the effort.



Mine is a Mexico truck, frame and engine.

Guess I got a Good one

 

[USMCBay]

Yea - Thanks...



I did take it for a spin around the neighborhood this morning and I really like how tight the steering is. I know I need new Stabilizer End Links and I think I could replace more Ball Joints but it is 110% better than what it was. It was bad... I mean I had to put it on my float to get it home - bad.



The install was pretty easy.



I do have enough clearance next to the steering shaft as long as I put the washer down first.



Yes - I agree - well worth the time and effort.

 

[USMCBay]

understand, Hang in there, The results are worth the effort.



Mine is a Mexico truck, frame and engine.

Guess I got a Good one

By the way... how can you tell. Do I pull the carpet back and look for lime slices, Mexican soda bottles, and foil wrappers?