Car tie-down in Trailer

[BIGNASTY]

Not done much car hauling, What's the better idea?

A tire ratchet strap that's called a tire bonnet ? its webbing that covers the top half of the tire and then to the hold downs in the trailer floor.

or

A ratchet strap that the Tacoma has tie down point on the frame of the truck and then to the trailer floor.

Just my POV it seems as if I use the Frame hooks on the Tacoma that it would limit the travel of the Tacoma Suspension. Where as the tire bonnet would keep the tires in place and let the suspension of the Tacoma take some of the beating rather than the truck.

 

[RVTRKN]

No experience with it either, but before I finished reading your thread, it would only work with an open flat bed with tire bonnets. If your in an enclosed and limited room for movements, I would cross tie front and rear with ratchets to frame and have a set of tire racks installed in the front that would lock down front tires, like you do with motorcycles. They work great for motorcycles and would be a perfect way to always get the same location every time you load it.

 

[jhenderson]

I'm not a fan of cross tie. If a strap comes loose the mate strap pulls the vehicle sideways instead of continued tension in the planned direction.

 

[BIGNASTY]

The Bonnets I think your misunderstanding the ones ive been looking at the Trailer is 102" wide with a door in the front as well as the rear ramp door. The trailer floor is not limited to just a few Sub Surface D Ring types but rather a track so to speak that run front to back two sides. When I get back for a task tomorrow I will take a look on line and find what im talking about. I see the Mobil parking lots using the tire bonnets all the time except for it seems the last cars on both the upper and lower deck.

 

[Simplysmn]

Hey Big On enclosed I would run to Frame on a truck it's not going to move that much .on a Car I would use the tire strap's they make it simple for a car .

 

[Wayne M.]

Big, most of my tow time was car hauling. I think you're thinking properly. In the case of lashing down the taco, I would use hooks in front and tie backs around the rear axle in back, in a X pattern on at least one end. Capture the front suspension, the rear won't jounced much. If something happens to make a strap snap, you'll have other things to worry about. I have always used---
http://mrproducts.com/collections/t...own-ratchet-wheel-strap-the-original-tie-down
M&R stuff. Top notch and US made. 10k rating on each, so really don't worry about breaking one.
The wheel bonnets are for cars like your Audi that you can't get under to grab something decent to hook to. Regarding the rails, sounds like E track, and I don't know if that's good to tie a car to. Bikes maybe.
Regarding the 102" trailer, that's great, but you should know about the 102 CMV restrictions in certain locales- it applies to that also. NJ is a real PITA and they enforce it.

 

[NIsaacs]

Here is some discussion: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/145903-tie-down-car-to-trailer-questions

Nick

 

[JR]

If you've already got E track in the floor (that is adequately weight rated) I would go with wheel nets. They're pretty slick.

Check these guys out, I've bought lots of goodies from them over the years. They've got good stuff.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/WheelNets

 

[BIGNASTY]

Big, most of my tow time was car hauling. I think you're thinking properly. In the case of lashing down the taco, I would use hooks in front and tie backs around the rear axle in back, in a X pattern on at least one end. Capture the front suspension, the rear won't jounced much. If something happens to make a strap snap, you'll have other things to worry about. I have always used---
http://mrproducts.com/collections/t...own-ratchet-wheel-strap-the-original-tie-down
M&R stuff. Top notch and US made. 10k rating on each, so really don't worry about breaking one.
The wheel bonnets are for cars like your Audi that you can't get under to grab something decent to hook to. Regarding the rails, sounds like E track, and I don't know if that's good to tie a car to. Bikes maybe.
Regarding the 102" trailer, that's great, but you should know about the 102 CMV restrictions in certain locales- it applies to that also. NJ is a real PITA and they enforce it.

https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/07/rv_size.php

I asked that also Wayne, I want to be able to go about anywhere. In Calif they had similar lane restrictions in place. Its mainly for Hwy's with lanes of less than 10' (7 Frwy) was one such Hwy the lanes didn't change when 102" trailers and Container and Pigs came out to make it legal for trucks with 102" trailers they renamed the road 710. Bingo it was somehow safe to pull 102" and oversized permitted loads ON THE SAME SMALL LANES, I think the reason was to keep Commiecalif from being sued if there was an accident.

Montana is no different, but where the lanes are small are mostly in far reaches and not much traffic. Barney's look the other way unless the driver is having obvious issues.


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=ETRACK

E-Track Modular Tie-Down Rails & Anchor Fittings

Customize your trailer to fit your exact requirements with E-Track, the most versatile, most flexible tie-down anchoring system around.

The basis of the E-Track system is the heavy-gauge steel track with evenly-spaced pockets. A variety of anchor fittings clip into the pockets without the need for tools or extra hardware. Fittings can be moved, removed, and added at any time, making E-Track an excellent choice for a variety of hauling uses!
•Dual-purpose trailers: Haul your racing machine on weekends and your work machines during the week! Snap-in fittings and anchors can be easily moved -- without tools -- as your needs change.
•Shared trailers: Haul a variey of cars and equipment without being "tied down" to one layout.
•Your own custom trailer: The wide variety of fittings allows you to build your trailer just as you want it and change it at any time!
•Tow vehicles: Use E-Track in your truck or van to keep all kinds of cargo secure.

E-Track can even increase the resale value of your trailer by making it instantly useable by the next owner!




The basis of the E-Track system is the E-Track itself. Painted 12 gauge steel rails have slots every 2 inches to accept modular E-Track fittings and anchors. Low profile (just 1/2 inch high) keeps the track out of your way when not in <script id="gpt-impl-0.6570585324009146" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_81.js"></script>use. Track measures 5 inches wide by 2.5 foot or 5 foot long. Either length can ship by UPS. 1/4 inch diameter mounting holes on 2 inch centers are provided on both sides of the E-Track. So long as the underlying structure is adequate, a safe working load of 470 pounds per bolt can be assumed. This conservative rating is based on an internal bolt tensile stress of 17,500 psi which provides a safety factor of 4.85 when using an SAE Grade 5 bolts with 1/4-20 thread. The 2.5 foot length has 30 mounting holes. The 5 foot length has 60 mounting holes.

Those tracks for tie downs aren't like the ones on the side of freight vans used with certain types of load locks these are some BEEFEY tie downs that were used by this Trailer manufacture when they built my FIL's years ago. He used a single ratchet strap over the center of his tire. When I tied down his Crown Vic he asked what I was trying to do pull the floor up or mash the car onto the deck of the trailer? I LIKE THINGS THAT DONT MOVE!! which sounds funny coming from a Tanker Yanker in a previous life form

I'm not sure if this is the same thing that they use but when I called they said that they used a tie down that they always have, this looks very similar to what was in another trailer we had.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2365

 

[BIGNASTY]

Hey Big On enclosed I would run to Frame on a truck it's not going to move that much .on a Car I would use the tire strap's they make it simple for a car .

Thanks Simplysmn I remember the pic of the newly painted Dodge truck in your drive, it looked as if you had ran a car or maybe two on a trailer before.

 

[NIsaacs]

I agree with RV, I would think unless you are a little skinny guy it would be tight getting beside the loaded vehicle to attach the tire bonnets. Front and rear would be easier. How will you get out of your vehicle once you are loaded? Winch it on? Seems like an enclosed trailer is a lot of work loading/unloading? Make sure the trailer is long enough so you can adjust your vehicle for weight placement.

Nick

 

[Wayne M.]

I agree with RV, I would think unless you are a little skinny guy it would be tight getting beside the loaded vehicle to attach the tire bonnets. Front and rear would be easier. How will you get out of your vehicle once you are loaded? Winch it on? Seems like an enclosed trailer is a lot of work loading/unloading? Make sure the trailer is long enough so you can adjust your vehicle for weight placement.

Nick

YES! It's been a while since I towed enclosed, and that's what I did- winch it in. If you're starting from scratch, a popular thing is to have a large door through the exterior wall that opens to allow you to open the vehicle door to get out, like what's in this link... #ad

 

[DaveHess]

I haul my drag car on an open bed (Felling FT-7E) trailer. I tie the car down by the frame with 10K straps. The fronts straps go straight ahead to the floor tie-downs and I cross the back straps. My thought has been to limit the movement of the race car's suspension when travelling on the trailer. I grabbed hold of a rear shock once when I used axle straps and shocks were fairly warm. Been using the frame ever since. That and I was told that the car exerts something like twice the force when it moves upward on the trailer. Another reason for using the frame and 10K straps. My car is a '73 Scamp that weighs 2850.

 

[RobertHutsell]

My friend also used the Felling FT-7E open bed trailer to haul his car. He gathered information about this by visiting many informative posts online.

 

[Simplysmn]

Yeah Just a few .On small stuff I use the ratchet strap's rated for the load on bigger stuff I use Chain and Binder no need to cross em just straight down to a solid Point is Good.

 

[JMarhofke]

E-track is a wonderful way to go if you have the room as some as stated. I prefer to tie down at the wheels/tires, and let the suspension move. This way the movement of the suspension is not working against your tie downs. If the vehicle has some type of slotted wheels, or aluminum wheels, I prefer to use axle straps with the protective sleeve through the wheel. Hook your ratchet strap onto the strap and tie it down. There are also straps available that are called "lasso" straps that come with either a ring, or sewn loop that can be used in lieu of an axle strap. They come in different lengths and work extremely well. If you look into tow companies that have flat beds, the recommended way to tie town vehicles is with some type of connection the tire.

 

[DaveHess]

Well, I have since sold my FT-7E. Finally after 20 years with the Felling decided to buy an enclosed trailer. I have the escape door on the driver's side so I can open the car door once loaded. I will winch the car in though.