Car Trailer Question

[stg2500]

Has anyone hear of Indian Valley Trailers? Their website is www.indianvalleytrailers.com I found that they have good prices on car trailers. Does anyone have any experience with their trailers? Any other trailer manufacturers that I should consider? I don't want to spend a fortune since I don't think that I will be using it a lot. Just bringing the classic to shows during the summer.



Thanks for the help.

 

[bighammer]

Have a close look at it and compare to others. You get what you pay for. I went shopping and found the low prices appealing, but the quality stunk. I mean it was probably safe and would work, but the decking and paint job had a life expectancy of about 2 or 3 years. Some of the trailers (last year's) were already rusting on the lot! Decking was 2x8 with 1 srcew in the middle of the board. MAJOR warping and cupping.



I bought a MacLander 20' w/slide in ramps. (~$2800 if I remember right) It was a bit more than the crappy $1600 I saw advertised.



Good Luck

 

[jmadden]

bighammer hit the nail on the head... you do get what you pay for. I too spent a lot of time looking and while the $1600 price range trailers had a good price the quality wasn't really there. Most of these were a 7k gross weight, single axle brakes, with frame cross members relatively far apart (a problem for short heavy items like skid-steers).



I went with a 20' (18' bed + 2' dove tail) Medium-duty (9900# gross weight) MacLander w/ slide-in ramps and 4-wheel brakes for approx. $2600 w/ a spare. This is a quality built product.



While you only plan to use it to haul the classic occasionally you may find you use it for a lot more (and everyone will want to borrow it). Depending on the weight of your classic you may want more than a 7k# gross weight... in my case the trailer weighs around 2700# empty and vehicles (plus parts) going on the trailer are often around 5k#... so the choice was to max out on the weight for a standard carhauler or provide for some additional capability... it was worth the extra money!



Good luck!





John

 

[bighammer]

Forgot to mention the GVW. Mine is a 10K the cheap ones were about 7

 

[redramnc]

Depending on what you are hauling a gooseneck may be a good idea. I have towed with every kind of trailer imaginable (and some I have suppressed the painful memory of) and personally find a gooseneck the only way to travel.



Also, and I found this to be a BIG plus, not too many people are able to "borrow" a gooseneck because they aren't set up for it. I know of too many "physics challenged" wanna-be towers who think that their (insert make here) SUV is capable of safely pulling and stopping a tagalong anything. Also eliminates any liability on your part for stupidity on their part (lawyers being what they are, I do not like to think about feeding them with MY money due to somebody else's lack of reality).



A goose hitch eliminates the need to have to try to explain to some people that they are criminally stupid when it comes to trying to haul/pull anything.



Just something to ponder... ... ...

 

[emarsh]

Even if you don't use the trailer often, consider it a lifetime expense. What I mean is paying a little more over the lifetime of the purchase means next to nothing in added cost over the long haul. Also consider loading, as I get older (50 in a month) I really appreciate not having to deal with heavy ramps, and having the ability to load LOW cars is a BIG plus! We have had our trailer for about 12 years now and last year I put new tires & brakes on. We have the Sloan Quick Load, and I swear it is worth every penny we paid over cheaper trailers; I would do it the same way over in a second! They cost more, but again, think of the difference in cost over the long haul (no pun intended!). http://www.kwikload.com/menu.htm

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by bighammer

Have a close look at it and compare to others. You get what you pay for. I went shopping and found the low prices appealing, but the quality stunk. I mean it was probably safe and would work, but the decking and paint job had a life expectancy of about 2 or 3 years. Some of the trailers (last year's) were already rusting on the lot! Decking was 2x8 with 1 srcew in the middle of the board. MAJOR warping and cupping.



I bought a MacLander 20' w/slide in ramps. (~$2800 if I remember right) It was a bit more than the crappy $1600 I saw advertised.



Good Luck

I agree. Look for a maker that dips and paints the completed frame. The one I sold last year had self tapping torx screws to hold the treated decking down. As the decking warped, it would shear the screws. They were a bugger to get out and replace with carrage bolts.



Storage is a biggie. If you can garage your trailer, it will last and look good much longer than outside.



emarsh is correct. My ramps stored by flipping them end for end and sliding them into my beavertail. Tuff on the back. Then they rattled like the devil on any bump. Plus the use of boards to load low profile. Thats why my neck trailer is going to be a tilt deck. (But not till' I have more garage to store it!)

 

[Okie-Go]

I am going to Oklahoma this weekend. I will find out what I can get one for. I buy the best I can afford when it comes to trailers. I do agree that you get what you pay for. My gooseneck was 400 dollars higher than a brand a friend found for me. I bought the more expensive one. It had treated floor, 4 brakes not two, 16 inch 10 ply tires not 15 inch and 7000lb axles not 5200. Also had a spare. I think it was well worth another 400.

 

[stg2500]

Thanks for all the information. I am in agreement that you get what you pay for. That is why the questions was asked. I want something that is a quality product that will last for a long time and be very versatile. That is why I have not purchased the open deck style car trailer. It really limits you to what you can haul. I like the gooseneck idea. Would it interfere with my toolbox like a 5er would. I have a bedrail mounted cross box.



Okie-Go, let me know what you find out.

I am going to Oklahoma this weekend. I will find out what I can get one for.

I am sure once I get a trailer the uses will be endless.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Over 20 years ago I bought a Target (Brownstown PA, near Lancaster). Fine quality, it still works for me. If I were buying one today, the one upgrade I would want is Henschen or similar torsion bar independent suspension for better handling.

 

[preleeguy]

I had really good luck with my open trailer from Diamond C. It was a low end trailer but had enough good design to make it well worth the $. A couple more things to think about: the length of the dove tail. Loading a low slung car can be a real pain. Get at least a 3 foot dove. Another is the length of the ramps. Short ramps are not very functional. One very important feature is a wind or gravel screen. If you like the paint on your car you'll get one. After you see all the chips on the screen you'll be glad you got one. One last thing. Take your truck and the car to the trailer place and try loading your car before you buy'You'll find out a lot that way about what you want. Good Luck.

 

[redramnc]

Joseph has a good point - if you want a low deck the way to go is with a Torsen or similar torsion-style springless axle setup. The ride is very good and the deck is as low as you can get it for a better center of gravity. They are more expensive but they do not have springs to deal with. Most of the big enclosed car trailers have these kind of axles. Thye do not seem to be as bouncy as a leaf spring when empty so you don't get as much sway.



My opinion - brakes on both axles. Dexter brakes, if you can get them. They have about 80% of the market and if you ever need parts you can get them just about anywhere. Other than cracking one drum I have had no brake trouble on my trailer over 7 years of alot of sitting interrupted by bouts of heavy hauling.

 

[QRTRHRS]

stg2500,



Open gooseneck trailers built for utility work taper from the adjustable coupling column that seats on your ball towards the trailer sides at a very acute angle. There is plenty of room except in situations where a top deck has been added either by the manufacturer or afterwards. There is room around the coupler for low profile cargo, tools whatever although it should be somewhat secured.



The center of the ball should be just forward of the center of your rear axle. I think I read 6" is optimal but regardless, if you look at the space from the rear of your toolbox to the axle, you can get an idea of the room. Goosenecks typically are setup with more space over the tailgate area. This is adjustable but the trailer should be level when loaded to the average weight your hauling.



Get the dealer to let you hookup so you can see what is in store before you buy something you don't want. Hope this helps.

 

[stg2500]

Thanks for all the info.



I am continuing the seach for the perfect trailer. One of these days I will find the one that I want for the right price.