Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Carter "CRT-P4601HP" replace w/ stock Lift Pump

[JL penner]

I'm considering buying this pump and installing it near the fuel tank:



It's the "CRT-P4601HP"



http://store.summitracing.com/defau...uel+pump+diesel



I would plumb it straight to the stock fuel filter. Any advice or opinions??

 

[Proram]

The 4601HP is an excellent pump. I make up and sell pusher pump kits for my shop. the reason for the failing fact. lift pump is simple, the little pump was designed to PUSH not pull, the distance is just to much. add to it extra fueling and poof it's done. replace the fact. pusher with a new one, add the 4601HP with a relay as close to the tank as you can and tap into the fact. lift pump harness to trigger the relay and you will have a GOOD 15/16 psi all the time, simple as that. Good luck, Scott@RDP

 

[JL penner]

What about hooking it up as a stand-alone? Could I just hook it straight up to the filter housing and use the wiring from the fact. LP?

 

[mediccummin]

I moved my stock LP down by the tank and run a racor fuel filter before the pump. That way I get clean fuel before the pump, and then I run through the stock filter. I welded up a mounting bracket that the pump and filter mounted to. I also went with all AN fittings, 6an SS hose and got rid of the banjo bolts. You can use the pigtail they sell at cummins to make a wire harness from the stock location to the pump. I went the little more expensive route but it can be done cheaper. Prior to move 13idle, 10cruise, 6wo. Now 14-15idle, 12-13cruise, 10wo. Got about 30k with no problems. See reader rigs for pics of set up. Make sure you use some rubber between your mounts or frame or the pump will be annoying. Good luck hope this give you some more ideas. Oh and I still carry a spare, but if I ever need to change it I put a shut off so it will be a piece of cake. Later... ... .

 

[JR2]

I tried one by itself (ie the only pump) mounted back by the tank and I was not impressed. It would only make about 10 psi and I could (and did) drag it down to 1-4 psi when I got on it. I took the pump off the truck and it is now sitting on my workbench taking up space. I would not reccomend it as a stand alone replacment. I would bet it would work well as a pusher to your stock pump, but its still just and electrical pump that is bound to fail eventually.



I know there where other member that tried the 4061HP in the stock location on a stock truck and it worked for about 6 months and quit just like the stock pump. All in all I would save your $$.



I am going to buy a RASP system this spring, all my problems will be solved then.

 

[JL penner]

My theory on this is that it's not the pump then. If you put a brand new pump on your system and it doesn't flow what the Mfg says it will then either you got a bad new pump or you have other problems in the system. Going with additional pumps or adding a system like the RASP just over powers whatever problem you had. My guess is that it has something to do with the fuel pickup going down into your tank. You have a restriction somewhere

 

[Double J]

FWIW... buddy of mine just installed a FASS in his 3rd Gen and is having some (what sounds like) cavitation. All new push-loc fittings/hose except for a couple of feet before the tank. The stock (issue line)quick-disconnect on the tank seems like a shady set-up at best and seems like a logical place for air to enter yet not indicate a fuel leak. Might be worth a little closer look... ... regaurdless, good luck on whatever electrical pump you decide on.

 

[Ncostello]

That Carter pump is basically identical to the OEM Carter except to the electrical connection and port threads. It will fail just the same.



These little pumps will fail if mounted next to the tank also in stand alone. I do not believe location makes much difference. Once prime is established it will continue to pump until it quits working mechanically or electrically. In any location it will provide more than adequate fuel for all but the highly modified trucks.



I spent $500 trying to make this single pump last... only to have it fail all the same. Folks who use twin pumps seem to do better in the long run.



PS: My 3rd replacement pump which I just purchased some 1000 miles ago is already starting to show strange signs of failure. Good pressure most of the time... then 7psi at idle randomly. Take off and apply some load to the engine and its back up to 13psi cruise.



Fuel Delivery: So simple... yet so difficult.

 

[Jetson]

I mounted one of these pumps near the tank replacing the stock pump. It was VERY noisy like a miniature chainsaw. It lasted 6 months. I then tried Mallory pumps. They were much quieter, but didn't last any longer. I have had a Holley Black pump mounted by the tank for over 2 years. It makes 12 psi at idle and drops to 9 WOT.

 

[JL penner]

How about this?



Install tank in bed of truck, Pusher pump right below tank. Transfer fuel from stock tank to aux. tank. For the price people are paying for some of these fuel pump fixes, you could put a down payment on a pretty nice aux. tank. Oh boy, I get to put another guage in my truck (aux. tank fuel level) Oo.

 

[Ncostello]

The decision for Cummins to replace the cam driven mechanical pump was... and still is... a major mistake in my opinion. A classic example of fixing what wasn't broke.



To me, at this point, installing a new cam with the fuel pump lobe and getting a 12V fuel pump is the only fix I'll consider. That or by a 12V truck.



I'm seriously looking for a 12V truck (or gasser :{ ) due to all my lift pump woes. Seems like I can't go a single day without some kind of fuel pressure issue I need to keep my eye on.