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Catalyst Full....... Can I drive it??

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6.7 With stacks......

forest service and DPF

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The cat and DPF got replaced about 2 weeks ago(3,000 mi). Yesterday the check engine light came back on, then the overhead display read Catalyst Full. I took it in to Simi Valley Dodge this morning and after only a few hours they diagnosed it and said it needs a new sensor. But it wont be here till Tuesday. They said I can drive it but to be easy on it.

All of my miles are towing and I need the truck for work. What do you guys think?????
 
If the DPF is really full and the message is not false, I would drive it hard to build as much heat as possible. But what we don't know is if the sensor that is bad is going to keep it from regenerating. I guess in this case I would listen to the dealer. If it really plugs up the truck will quit running from excessive back pressure anyway. You don't have much to loose. And make sure they flash it again to the latest software level. The new flash was out late this week.
 
No TSB, just more software changes that probably can't wait for a TSB to be issued.



sag2 what can you tell me about the 'Regen Filter' and 'Regen Filter Target' PID's that I can monitor with the Dashhawk I just installed? The target is reading 4. 5 and the Regen Filter number is slowly going up. I would assume that when the number reaches 4. 5 it will go into Regen? There are some other 'Regen' PID's also available but not sure exactly what they are reporting.
 
At 3,000 miles, or 3,000 miles ago. 3,000 Miles in one week. Now that would be impressive!





To me, it sounds like a bad injector. Sooting up the exhaust.



Merrick
 
My own experience so far with my 6. 7 says the dealer has no idea how the new emissions work. When I brought my truck in for the particulate filter being full, they determined the #1 egt sensor was out of range and need to be R&Red. Since they needed to order it, they said to keep driving the truck. I told them that was stupid, and it could ruin the particulate filter. I didn't drive the truck until I had to drive it 1/2 an hour back to the dealer when they got the sensor. It barely made it, and stalled in their lot. They replaced the sensor, and then tried to drive it! It died completely 2 miles from the dealership, and they had to remove the exhaust at the downpipe to get it back. Then they had to order a particulate filter. The particulate filter can be plugged bad enough that it cannot be regenerated on the truck and must be replaced.



I don't think running these things with a bad sensor is generally a good idea. At best, the engine will determine something is wrong and go into limp mode. At worst, the engine won't know anything is wrong with the sensor and will be operating with false information that could break something.



If you are running with the latest version of SW, 3000 miles on a particulate filter is not encouraging. Especially given the fact you are working your truck they way it should like to be worked. As far as I have been told, "taking it easy" on these engines, especially idling, is the worst thing you can do to them.



For now I guess all we can do is follow the dealer's advice (informed or not) so they don't void our warranty
 
sag2 what can you tell me about the 'Regen Filter' and 'Regen Filter Target' PID's that I can monitor with the Dashhawk I just installed? The target is reading 4. 5 and the Regen Filter number is slowly going up. I would assume that when the number reaches 4. 5 it will go into Regen? There are some other 'Regen' PID's also available but not sure exactly what they are reporting.



Not sure what the Regen PID's are. Does it give any ideas in the materials that came with the Dashhawk?
 
If it really plugs up the truck will quit running from excessive back pressure anyway.



I had this problem with my 99 gasser. Talk about a dog, it would barely run 10 MPH. Seriously. Luckily it was still under the 80K (those model years) emissions warranty. Had I known what it was, I'd have cut the b-d out myself.
 
My own experience so far with my 6. 7 says the dealer has no idea how the new emissions work. When I brought my truck in for the particulate filter being full, they determined the #1 egt sensor was out of range and need to be R&Red. Since they needed to order it, they said to keep driving the truck. I told them that was stupid, and it could ruin the particulate filter. I didn't drive the truck until I had to drive it 1/2 an hour back to the dealer when they got the sensor. It barely made it, and stalled in their lot. They replaced the sensor, and then tried to drive it! It died completely 2 miles from the dealership, and they had to remove the exhaust at the downpipe to get it back. Then they had to order a particulate filter. The particulate filter can be plugged bad enough that it cannot be regenerated on the truck and must be replaced.



I don't think running these things with a bad sensor is generally a good idea. At best, the engine will determine something is wrong and go into limp mode. At worst, the engine won't know anything is wrong with the sensor and will be operating with false information that could break something.



If you are running with the latest version of SW, 3000 miles on a particulate filter is not encouraging. Especially given the fact you are working your truck they way it should like to be worked. As far as I have been told, "taking it easy" on these engines, especially idling, is the worst thing you can do to them.



For now I guess all we can do is follow the dealer's advice (informed or not) so they don't void our warranty

It does seem these 6. 7s work better if worked hard. One of my friends has the C&C and is running the CI-4 plus oil and he's already got 40,000 on it with no trouble. This is heavy towing miles to but I still wouldn't recommend running the wrong oil; he'll probably pay for it in the future. The point I was getting at is it seems if you work them hard they work better even if you use the wrong oil.
 
Sorry I have not been able to update, I have been really busy. The dealer replaced the sensor and told me that the truck was ready but to expect a little bit of smoke during hard acceleration. I told them that didn't sound right but i would check it out. I went and picked it up and it blew a big cloud of black smoke as soon as I left the dealer. So I took it back and told them it was not fixed. I just heard back from them and they said it is going to take a lot of regens and many miles before the DPF gets cleaned out again.
This does not sound right to me. First of all, how can a dealer give me the truck back when it obviously will not pass smog?? Second, what kind of a toll did it take on the DPF when it got full? I am already going to have to spend a small fortune replacing it at around 100k miles, I don't need to do it any sooner. Any opinions?
 
I figure it would smoke for a few days while it cleaned up.



I think smog emissions and warrenty fall under a different warrenty period. I though it was well over 100k miles. Like 180,000 miles and ten years.



Can we get a clarification on that? I am not positive.



I know for positive it is wareentied atleast for the 100K and 5 yrs the motor is.



Merrick
 
Just a curious question.

My warranty on my work trucks last about a year (100,000 miles a year). when i purchase a new truck, will I be able to rod out the PDF, reinstall it, and keep trucking? After the first year warranty wil be no issue with me.
 
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