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CB Static

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All,



Have just installed a new Cobra 25 WX and new 5' whip antenna which is mounted to the front fender not too far forward to the windshield.



When the engine is started the background noise picks up quite a bit but does NOT vary with engine speed. CB shop that did the install says the coax is good and I had the standing wave check by an independent source that confirms that. If I pull the antenna then the noise goes away.



CB shop that installed the unit did "noise search" with a directional antenna and there seems to be two areas where noise is being generated - one down by the flywheel damper and the other on the engine inboard of the fuel pump. They say that even moving the antenna will not help since the whole truck is in a "magnetic cone".



Thoughts?



TIA,

Mike
 
Hi Mike,... . about 1200 years ago I was into the two-way hobby myself... .

I could never figure out why the "man" was all bent outta shape just cause I could push near 850Watts from the old tube driven ham rig I had... . go figure. . ;)



Just as a thought... if you have a magnetic mount antenna, try running that one and see if the noise issue is cleared up... it can be as simple as the location and/or grounding ... ...



Admittedly things have changed and improved since then but I found some common issues that cause or contributed to receiver noise... .

The biggest one was ground issues... . that includes the radio ground as well as other vehicle ground contacts.

On our trucks there is really very little "electronic activity" that a car would/might have.

If you look at the neg terminal on the battery, there is a small black wire that runs to the rad support. It isn't very long and is secured by a single self tapping screw..... not really that great...

Remove and clean that baby up, then, get some good 1ga or 2ga multistrand wire and run another ground from the neg terminal to the frame rail and/or the block as well.

Make sure the fastening points are nice and clean and use some dielectric grease. This will not only help the contact be as "positive" as possible but it will also help reduce the normal breakdown of the contact over time.



The area on/around the front of the engine by the vibration dampner is only accessed by the crank position sensor. It is a magnetic pickup. If you look over the grille/rad towards the front of the engine you'll see a wire (usually in a wire loom) heading down behind the clutch fan and pulleys... . this goes down to the small magnet mounted at about the 11:00 position just above the dampner itself.

The contact you'd want to check for that is on the front of the cylinder head just part way down front of the head. This is a simple two wire connection. Open that up, clean it out really well and use a tiny tab of dielectric grease on it and reconnect.

Next, you're going to look at the two wires that connect to the injection pumps' start/stop solenoid. That is a basic 12vdc ciruit. Those spade terminals also get real sloppy over time and are often the cause of intermittent engine shutdown headaches... . again, pull the terminals off, snug up the spade portion and clean off the terminals on the solenoid. Re-install using a bit of the grease. It doesn't matter which wire goes were on that one.

After that, you move down to the KSB solenoid. It is also a basic 'dc' circuit but it is only active when the weather is cold so it is unlikely to be your problem but your in there anyway so re&re like you did with the start/stop contacts.



From there go to the sensors on the intake manifold... repeat the electrical maintainence process as above.

If you still have noise that is constant and unvarrying then you may want to wrap a braided shield around the wiring we've discussed.



Years back and on one of my installs I put a multiband ham radio in my Ford PU... .

I found that I had to take some of the sheilding from a piece of the heavier coaxial cable... about 4-5" long, cut it lengthwise and wrap it around the underside of the antenna mount/connection, then, either solder it back to gether or use a series of tiewraps to pull it together to form a good solid connection/shield.





Well, that's all I can think of at the moment... . some of the other guy's will jump in here with some really good idea's instead of my "old as dirt" thoughts. . ;) :D:D



pb... .
 
In the 70's I used to install these for my parents store. Ford's were the absolute worst for picking up noise from the alternator. Do everything that PB said and if that doesn't help or the noise is still more then you would like try running the ground for the radio directly to the negative post of the battery. Just doing this would take care of the problem about 80% of the time.



Tom
 
I have a Cobra 29 LTD classic. It is just as bad on noise.



I cured the problem by switching to a Unidine PC78 radio. The recieve is much better then that cobra could ever dream about. I have the cobra mounted in a brief case now as a backup if I am driving something without a radio.



I once threw a model 19 out the window at 60MPH. It was a final blowing piece of trash. It would pop the final every other week. Antenna was at 1. 1 coax was new. When it blew for the third time. I had a Royce setting and waiting. I switched it out driving down the road and tossed it. L0L



Here is some reading.



http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S...se_suppressors_installation_guide.html?page=2
 
All,



Thanks for the great advice - will look into swapping to a Uniden as well as all the wiring maintenance.



Sorry it took so long to reply - just spent a week in the hospital but am well now.



Thanks,

Mike
 
Mike you do not say where your from. If your close enough to me. I can show you the difference between the Cobra and a Uniden in person. In the same truck.





A Uniden PC68 is good on the recieve side also. Case500D has one in his W350. He uses a 3' fire stick on the right side mirror. He bought his a week before I bought mine. That is what made my mind up to ditch that cobra. On long trips it was a constant pain resetting the squech every few miles. Plus when someone was close enough to break the squelch they had static in their transmission.
 
Our local shop was the one that talked me into the Cobra. I told him I wanted a good recieve without tons of static. He said the 29 was good. Yea right. I hated it from the first time I turned it on. It sounded tinney. It is easy for anyone to break the squelch even at distance. Then it lets a lot of static into the conversation.



When I took Case500D down to TX to pickup his W350. We hit a CB shop in Tulsa to get him a radio to come back with. That shop doesn't sell Cobra's. We talked about recieve noise and so on. He sold Case500D that PC68 and the first time we turned it on. I knew that Cobra was not going to be in my truck much longer. The next weekend when we went back for the truck at Tulsa. I picked up a PC78 and didn't look back.



That Cobra will have very limited use from now on.
 
Philip said:
It is easy for anyone to break the squelch even at distance.

That's because it has a good receive side... turn the RF gain down if you want to limit your range. Or you could simply go to another channel where it's quiet!



No matter what anyone tells you, Cobras and Unidens are exactly the same radio. Alternators create interference... the ONLY way to get a radio to stay as quiet as it is when the truck is shut off when the truck is running is to unhook the alternator.
 
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