CEL PO 299 Low Boost Puzzle

[CharlesHoward]

After my 05 Dodge Ram spent 2 months at the Diesel Shop in Grant NE and replaced MAP, IAT Crankshaft AND Camshaft Position sensors, and possible some others... truck ran fine for over a month, towed my 13K lbs Fiver for 30 miles and no CEL.
Left Imperial NE on OCT 10 (left Trailer there) and HAD to clear PO299 FIVE TIMES on our almost exclusively 1300+ mile Freeway drive home - usually on startup after stopping for gas/food/break or one minute later. The first time ALSO had a low Fan Speed Code. Once the code appeared while driving on the freeway so I pulled off at the next exit and cleared it.
The LAST time the code appeared was in North AL after stopping at Arbys and took a minute to appear after startup (Oct 12). 187 K miles on my RAM now.

Wife doesn't want to travel in it anymore...
Now we're home in Montgomery AL and despite short shopping drives, brief Freeway up to 80MPH, LOTS of stoplight idling waiting - the CODE has not reappeared despite my "bad driving" over the last two weeks!

BD boost Fooler is still connected to the MAP. I don't have my SMARTY permanently connected and use it as a "Scan tool".

Interestingly enough the ABS/Brake Light Indicator which was on the verge of frequently appearing is now very infrequent... maybe it likes the Humidity in AL?

WTF? Why would long HWY driving and stops trigger the Code, but not the over 120 miles of HWY since the last Code occurrence and now no drives over 20 minutes??? It sure puzzles me!

 

[p-Bar]

Alot of the guys would say unload and disconnect any boxes and programmers, get it back to stock. Got some gremlins going on. From what I remember when you get the fan code it puts the truck in limp mode. Troubleshoot the fan circuit. Also your 05 has plastic end caps on the intercooler, there have been a lot of failures. Something to check

 

[Timd32]

These can be some chase your tail, but here is the pdf on that one.

 

[CharlesHoward]

Thanks!
Will pursue when I can get the code again - perhaps on our return to Imperial NE next Spring with longer road time and higher altitudes and lower humidity.....

 

[Ozymandias]

By now I also would say you have a wiring problem. Long drives mean heat, heat dries things. High humidity gives conductivity to places where there is non when dry.
But where, this is the 1 Million $ question.

 

[CharlesHoward]

We're now in TX and the Ram is in our Garage at Home in AL. I DID get the PO299 Code once at home in late Nov 2023 just before I parked the Truck in the Garage. My wife now hates the Truck and causes her much anxiety... Doesn't bother me that much. Besides returning to our RV in NE, we must now tow it ACROSS the Rockies to Delta CO in April for another Church School Building Project/Job in mid-April.
When I get home I hope to have my local Shop install a CEautoelectric AWG 2.0 new Battery Cable Set, a new Heavy Duty Water Pump and possibly I'll go for a Mechman Alternator and upgrade kit also from CEautoelectric, and maybe a new Serpentine Belt if needed... I have gotten a low Fan Speed CEL twice with the Low Boost Codes CEL. Some Folks claim BD products are lousy (IronHorn Turbo), Maybe I should spring for a new Turbo (argh, so many to choose from!)
What would you do?
Thanks!

 

[AH64ID]

Are you running stock tuning or programmed?

 

[CharlesHoward]

I'm running the first or second Smarty upgrade Tune as BD Diesel suggestion was more "fueling" was needed to "solve" the Low Boost Code...Also have the BD Diesel "Boost Fooler" installed.

 

[AH64ID]

I'm running the first or second Smarty upgrade Tune as BD Diesel suggestion was more "fueling" was needed to "solve" the Low Boost Code...Also have the BD Diesel "Boost Fooler" installed.

Get rid of the boost fooler, it’s not needed with the Smarty programming. Boost foolers should send the correct boost signal at low boost, but they don’t always and it could very well be your issue.


Which size Iron Horn are you running?

 

[CharlesHoward]

I'm running the 77lb/min S63SX-E "2nd Level" Trailer towing per their earlier marketing. Over a year ago BD Recommended a upgraded fueling Tune to address the Low Boost Code - Hence the Smarty and slight upgrade Tune. NOW their marketing for this level Turbo shows "Recommended Injectors 30%" - that's new! I've contacted BD about what that means... but have not heard from them yet.
Apparently the Boost Fooler DOESN'T work as I routinely get the Low Boost CEL!

 

[AH64ID]

Boost foolers are for allowing more boost and fool the high boost signal. Smarty programs the truck to not limit fuel based on boost, so you don’t need it.

Definitely more turbo than you need for your application. The 0.9 housing on a journal bearing turbo isn’t great for low rpm spool, which is where you’re likely getting the low boost code.

The Iron Horse can’t even use an elbow mounted exhaust brake, and is more of a race turbo. You seem to be using it as a towing turbo. What made you chose this turbo?

 

[CharlesHoward]

- I chose this Turbo as their advertising showed a Trailer.
BUT the Boost PUZZLE is now SOLVED.
I installed the BD Iron Horn along with "Mr Bob's" Silicone Hoses and supplied Spring Clamps back in Nov 2019.
About a year later I got the first code which disabled proper running after a long STOP, STOP, creep HWY accident that closed 2 of 3 Lanes - nearby shop cleared it
The Following year it popped up driving 70 and again I went to a nearby shop which cleared it.
Then it would happen occasionally so I bought a better Scan tool to clear it.
The LAST two years the PO299 Low BOOST (now called Supercharger Underboost) occurred often (but not on every drive - until this Spring) apparently as a stored code shortly after startups - but twice while driving with the resultant need to clear it after getting off the road.
BD suggested a TUNE could reduce Code occurrence so I got the Smarty Tuner last year...at least it always clears the code!
Diesel Shop in Grant NE had no clue (all Fords and Chevy trucks in his lot). And sold me two new Sealed Lead Acid batteries (that was later discovered this Spring because some of the OEM Battery Cable Clamps would not always get tight (new CE Auto Electric Cables installed this Month) and I was able to salvage and reuse my Original AGMs. I had to google that "loose battery cable" problem...
Getting ready to go back to NE to retrieve my Fiver THIS Month and stopping in Omaha For the 50th ANNIVERSARY Journey Band Concert I contacted Banghart Diesel Performance in nearby Wahoo NE. He suggested I get a Boost Test. My local shop could not do but referred me to the local Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram Dealer/stealership.
The Dealer said they could do it but after 5 days and not hearing anything I went to the Dealer to retrieve my Truck. At first they said no charge - but then they found a ticket from a Tech that said "Turbo is seizing - not safe to drive" !? How could I drive it back from NE? How could it still operate? They ripped me off for $167.
Left for NE Apr 12 - had to clear the Code after every drive and once on the HWY and dropped the Truck off at Banghart Sunday Night Apr14. Boost was usually around 4 lbs Psi but did fluctuate a lot of course...
They immediately discovered that every one of my Silicone Hoses had a leak and that the BD Iron Horn Turbo was fine. So the Spring Clamps for the Hoses had to be retightened. Boy that was a dummy situation... Banghart has a SLED pulling "team" so they know Rams. They Installed my new Battery Cables, a Bulletproof Water Pump and at 185 miles (I added the MOPAR additional Fuel Filter a few years ago...) one injector was going bad and the others "were right behind" but I could keep driving it a little - but since I had to tow I had them install Bosch Injectors $$$. Boost now averages around 10 lbs PSI but peaked at 30 according to my Smarty pulling the Fiver going UPHILL. NO more codes since 2 days of maintenance in Wahoo and pulling my 13K+ Trailer from Imperial NE north on I-80 through Wyoming and now as far as Craig CO (Apr 19) on our way to Delta CO tomorrow (as the Wheel in sky keeps on turning...)

 

[CharlesinGA]

I'm a minimalist and generally dislike mods, especially performance mods. I prefer mods that improve functionality or durability. Performance improvements, in my eyes, just hurt the engine. Cummins made that engine to perform at a certain level and last a certain length of time. Adding modifications, especially one on top of the other doesn't help the engine in terms of reliability.

For example, if you saw the Banks Power series of videos on "diff covers" as he likes to call them () you would understand why your flat back cover is the worst thing you could do to the rear end. I installed one (Mag Hytec) and later that year (2018 think) the Banks videos came out. After the first couple of videos, I realized how foolish it was to have it, and removed it and replaced it with a genuine Mopar/AAM aluminum cover. It was almost a year before Banks was above to get their cover on the market (patents, engineering, manufacturing, etc) My truck is as clean as a whistle underneath, not a bit of rust, but the original differential cover was covered with heavy flaky rust, totally out of character for the truck, so I opted for the aluminum factory cover.

I looked into the BD Diesel Howler kit as a means of installing an exhaust brake, but after doing enough reading, discovered that you will get lots of codes if you don't upgrade the injectors, which BD does not say anywhere on the web site. The computer sees too much boost too quick if you don't feather foot it, and the stock injectors cannot fuel it fast enough. Scratch that idea, and save some money in the process. I bought the PacBrake kit with the air compressor, tried and proven works great, easy installation.

It looks like you do not have an exhaust brake (from your signature description) If so, you could REALLY benefit from one, either in the pipe under the floor or back to the stock turbo and install in the place of the elbow on the outlet. The '05 and earlier automatics need wiring modifications, special switches and electronic modules to make it happen. PacBrake could set up a kit based on your exhaust pipe size and the fact you already have onboard air. A single relay, air control valve for the brake, the brake valve, and adapters and clamps.

Interactive online catalog of exhaust brake kits and components.
https://79cd0798.flowpaper.com/brakescatalogueweb/#page=4

Lots of folks have pulled heavy fifth wheels with a stock third gen truck with nothing more than an exhaust brake (which I now consider a necessity).

Charles

 

[CharlesHoward]

Thanks for the info/advice.
Cruise Control and braking (and fully functioning trailer braked) handled the downhills from NE to western CO just fine and since we plan to sell our trailer after this job/sojourn in Delta CO and the Truck will be sold sometime later no further upgrades are warranted