Here I am

Central Timer Module or ???

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Edge juice with attitude mileage coach

Cruise control has gone crazy

Status
Not open for further replies.
Calling all Electronic Guru’s, here’s on for ya. Hope you can help.
Steering Wheel Radio and Cruise Don’t work. Over the years (owned since 5/01) the buttons on the face and behind the steering wheel have gone out. Initially the radio buttons worked whacky: left top volume up would change channel, volume down would increase volume, left channel up would increase volume, etc. All buttons would just inconsistently work out of order and/or not at all. The cruise would and wouldn’t work. I’ve replaced the clock spring twice with success for a period of time and it would sometimes work depending on the position of the tilt wheel. The last clock spring I replaced everything worked perfectly... at least while running in the driveway = radio controls and cruise on off (light on dash would come on and off when “on button” pressed. Once I placed the tilt wheel in a lower position and placed in “D” the cruise light went out and the radio controls ceased to function. I removed the plastic covers to access column as well as the covers on top and below the wheel, removed the wheel (of course after disconnecting both batteries) and inspected the wiring = removing all the factory tape and inspecting wires for insulation breeches or loose / bad connections at the top of the wiring where connections to turn signals, ignition switch, clock spring and etc. as well as the bottom of the column where the wiring connected to the several large and smaller junction plugs and the connections beyond the lower plugs. The result was always - all good. Most recently I thought I found the problem, I lightly pulled on the wires going into the ignition switch connection and a red wire seemed a bit weak. I pulled this wire, once again lightly and it let go = it seemed as if just at where the wire krimped to the spade connector (I used a tool to remove all the connectors from the terminal plug) the wire was cut, so it seemed as if there “could” be an intermittent connection or lack there of. I thought this would explain why sometimes things worked or not depending on the location of the tilt wheel. As you tilt the wheel up or down the wiring harness would slip along the shaft of the column, this red wire seemed to have the most stress during up/down tilt. I move the wire so it wouldn’t have as much stress, after removing pieces from the spade connector and inserting, re-krimping and soldering the wire to the connector. I thought I had “finally” found the culprit = nope, same old same old.

At this point I’m wondering if the Central Time Module that, according to what I’ve read in the Dodge Ram Shop Manual (not a Chilton’s = the factory manual, which I purchased thru Geno’s Garage probably June/July 01) this CTM sends signals to all the various systems, including; radio and cruise functions. Another little tidbit, recently I moved my daughter from home (Levittown, PA) to Marysville, WA, with her 02 Merc Sable on a U-Haul Auto Transport, both car and bed of truck loaded (BTW: what an awesome trip with just she and I, and the truck did an awesome job) as we exited the PA Tpk continuing west I said “it would be great if the cruise worked”. I found that if I pressed the cruise button immediately after a warm start it would work, if you waited till all the after-start dash lights went out the cruise light wouldn’t light, but if you immediately pressed it before the lights went out it would “usually” stay on and work. Sometimes I’d have to start and turn off the engine multiple times to get the light to stay on. Very, very odd, but I usually always seemed to get the cruise to function.

So, I’m at a point where I’m at witts end. Does anyone have a clue if the CTM (or possibly ECM, or PCM, or all 3) could be the culprit? Or am I totally missing something? All the radio and cruise buttons test out good and I’ve cleaned all the little contact points within these switches. If the CTM, ECM or PCM are the problem(s) can they be re-flashed or replaced with new or remanufactured???? I love the convenience of the radio controls and it’s really nice to have cruise too.... I just want things to work correctly = again.

Thanks,

Joe Mc
 
Last edited:
Mine truck is an 02, so I might be comparing apples to oranges here. I don't have the radio controls in the steering wheel, but my cruise control quit working twice. Each time it was a different broken wire right where the tilt steering wheel pivots. When I say broken wire, I mean the wire itself was broken but the insulation surrounding the wire was intact, so the problem wasn't obvious.

This may not be the case for your truck, but I thought it was worthy of mentioning.

- John
 
I think I've read several posts in the past about broken wires where the steering wheel pivots. Like petersonj says, the wire seem good but you have to check continuity to be sure that it is not broken, even if the insulation is in good shape.
Time consuming but cheap work with a voltmeter, before changing expensive parts that would not fix your problems if you have broken wires.
 
OK, when I mentioned tested good wires from top to bottom of column connectors I used an ohm meter. When the weather permits after I get home I’ll check/test/ohm meter thru all again and report back. Note the red wire I spoke of above was exactly intact = insulation looked good, seemed a bit loose and then separated, wire as it entered the spade connector looked as if it was cut clean.
Thanks
 
Another reason I think my problems are electronic --> module related. I neglected to mention in above post the following shifting anomalies = when first starting out in "D" range (seems like this happens only when outside temps are below 50F) in the morning the trans will shift right into 2nd gear (going way too slow, like 5mph, very little go pedal pressure) if I let off the go pedal the trans seems to go into OD or lock the TC. I'll have to place into "N" or else it seems as if I came to a stop it would stall, it is like you're driving a manual trans in a way to high gear for the low speed. If I take off at a normal speed (once again in "D") it'll shift way to soon into 2nd, then into 3rd, etc. all before the truck reaches 30mph and as before it seems as if the TC locks. I can place into "N" and coast into the WAWA (about ⅛ mile from starting point) leaving it run while I get coffee. When I leave (approx. 5 mins later) it shifts normally. Now, "shifts normally" is relative to how the trans has been shifting - for a while = light go pedal pressure and maintaining same position on pedal, it'll shift into 2nd around 15-20mph, 3rd around 25-30, and then continue on over 40mph in same gear until I let off the go pedal a bit "then" it'll go into 4th and (without changing pedal position) it'll then go into OD. Once trans temp gage hits around 100F it seems to shift as it should/used to "except" it doesn't go into OD until over 45mph IE: used to go into OD at closer to 40. BTW: I have larger than stock tires and according to GPS speed I'm 6mph faster than speedo reading, so at 45mph on the speedo I'm actually at 51mph. Another oddity, sometimes (very rarely and all temps up to operating temps) when I stop for a sign and then start out the trans is in 2nd (I know this isn't good and immediately let off the go pedal) if I place in "N" and back in "D" sometimes it'll go into 1st sometimes not. Here's the best part = when it "sometimes" doesn't go back into 1st if I shift into "L" (and I've never attempted shifting into "L" unless stopped or only rolling less than 2-3mph) it seems as if the trans goes into 2 gears (like D & R) and seems as if the brakes are on, I immediatly place in "N" and then into "D". This is really whacky??? My DTT Trans guru said he's "never" hear of that happening. So, things I've done: replaced trans transducer/solenoid (a few times now to eliminate possibility of faulty new part - also ohm new parts comparing to new old parts being replaced = same readings), wiring harness from trans entry point to VB, trans speed sensor at rear side of trans, adjusted the trans throttle cable (correctly per the shop manual = with go pedal in idle position no slack, or lead tension, on trans throttle lever "and" when the go pedal begins to move the trans throttle lever should move in unison with go pedal = not before or after). This "below 50F" shifting into way to hi of a gear for speed and the starting out in 2nd gear "rare oddity" along with all the replacement parts (BTW: as recommended here and by my DTT Trans Guru) I'm at a loss as to where to start looking? Some sort of short, loose ground, PCM/ECM/CTM not "always" getting communication? Oh, never any codes or check engine lights, no "never"... I thought there might be a temperature sensor in the trans that was giving intermittent signals could be the culprit. I found that there is a temp sensor located within either the transducer or solenoid (I forget which). The shop manual provided ohm range for whichever part the sensor is within and after allowing both old and new (yes new again) both ohm'ed the same. WTH?!!! So, I'm at wits end.

Oh, you all are going to love this next part... I recently took a trip from home (Levittown, PA) to Marysville, WA (near Seattle) to move my daughter, with her 02 Merc Sable (packed with items) on a rental auto transport "and" bed of the truck loaded, guess what??? the trans performed flawlessly = shifting perfectly up and down, in and out of OD and never got over 110F, unless going slowly in traffic. If anyone has ever pulled Snowqualami Pass with a bit of a load on you'll know it is a steep climb - the trans performed perfectly even pulling the pass it the temp didn't go over 110F, granted the weather was cold but even when driving on the flats in same weather the trans temp sat right around 100-110F.

Sorry for long post/update, but I wanted to provide as much info as possible to "hopefully" allow those "Electronic" and "Mechanical" Gurus amongst the TDR flock to be able to share their insights and experiences to possibly help figure my dilemmas out.

Thanks for reading and your replies.

Joe Mc
 
FHerault,

Thanks for reading and replying. I'm not sure about how the TPS (there's never been any problems with throttle response) could impact all that's going on with the cruise/remote radio controls/trans shifting issues, but at this point I'm open for any suggestions???
Anyone have an instruction I can follow for how to check the TPS?
 
Thanks for link but that’s for a 12 valve, my truck is a 99, 24 valve and I’m sure it has an APPS vs TPS.

BTW: since the temps are in the high 50s today I’m in the process of checking column wire continuity...again... maybe I missed something on prior “explorations”. We’ll see...
 
Last edited:
Thanks for link but that’s for a 12 valve, my truck is a 99, 24 valve and I’m sure it has an APPS vs TPS.

BTW: since the temps are in the high 50s today I’m in the process of checking column wire continuity...again... maybe I missed something on prior “explorations”. We’ll see...

Ooops... sorry ! I've posted too fast.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/151709-APPS-Test-Procedures-from-Cummins

Good luck with your continuity test, hope you'll find something here.
 
Thanks for the link FHerault.
JDoremire, I removed column covers tops and bottoms and unplugged all connectors, then inspected.

Unfortunately I couldn't continuity test because the wiring harness at the bottom of the column doesn't have connectors and they all disperse / dissapear into the abyss of the fuse box and other harnesses up in the void of the dash.

Of course I disconnected both negative leads at the battery and waited 5 mins or so before removing the horn button / air bag.


So a few pics of today's exploration
Pic1 shows column stripped of the wheel, covers and harnesses. Pointer at turn signal/hi & low beam/wiper-washer switch.
Pic2 shows plug connector/plug for switch in pic1.
Pic3 shows green wire dislodged from back of connector/plug. The little plastic lock tab that secures the spade connector into the block was broken so it either slipped out over time or just pushed out last time I inspected and reconnected???
Other than this (blue) plug on all the other connector/plugs I removed the spade connectors "one at a time" inspected the factory crimp to wire and insulation for internal wire breakage and worn areas = none, then reinserted back into the original hole.
When I reconnected the blue connector/plug I used a dull pick to push the green wire/spade fully into the switch male blade "hopefully". I wondered if this loose wire had something (if not everything) to do with the reason "sometimes" the intermittent wipers would stall in down swing and then start again???

So, upon putting everything back together and connecting the batteries I was hopeful at least the intermittent wiper stall would be resolved. To my surprise when I started the truck up and pushed the cruise on button it actually came on! "And" all the radio controls worked like a charm! Whoo Hooo! I went for a ride, the trans seemed to shift normally too, or was it just my imagination? I stopped for a coffee and let the truck run (without turning off the cruise). To my surprise when I came back to the truck the cruise light was still on. Before if I left the cruise on when parked when I returned it would be off and I'd have to shutdown and restart to try to get the cruise back on, sometimes it would work after a restart (or 2, or 5) sometimes it wouldn't. I tried all the radio controls, which still worked too. I headed down the road with everything working like a charm for a good test drive. About an hour later as I was heading for a celebratory adult beverage, listening to a CD, the CD seemed to skip (which was odd as it was a fairly new one) and when I looked over at the radio I noticed the cassette player was starting to play and then I was listening to whatever was on the cassette. I thought that's odd and pushed the CD button to resume. As I parked at the adult beverage getting place I tried the radio controls "NOTHING" WTF!!! I turned the cruise off and then on and it held??? After 2 beers I decided to head home. Started the truck up, pushed the cruise button on = it came on, tried the radio buttons = nothing. I pulled out of the lot, drove about 100' to the light and noticed the cruise light was off, of course it wouldn't come back on.

My fix was short lived = bummer. Tomorrow (weather permitting) I'll remove the column covers and see if the green wire slipped out? BTW: What the heck does the wiper etc. switch wiring have to do with the cruise/radio controls???? I guess all the wiring is somehow going to and/or from the CTM, ECM, PCM etc.

IMG_2093.jpg


IMG_2092.jpg


IMG_2091.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top