Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Change your own VP44??

[RobbyRam]

Who cares to post how they changed their own, ... with their very own hands... , their 'VP44' injection pump. I will order one from a company in Texas that sells NEW ones cheap if I get enough confidence from you experienced and confident 'TDR' members. (I 've done my own injectors, lift pump, and valve- body, and of course do oil and filter changes myself. ) However, I'm tentative about taking on the VP44

Bob in Sacramento

 

[lmills]

here are a set

 

[RobbyRam]

Again I ask, has anyone 'with their own hands' changed their VP44?

 

[dshawhan]

I am like you I have done injectors and other parts but when it came to the VP I paid @$200 and let the dealer do it. 65 of that was the diagnosing to get a code showing the VP was bad in order to order one. I like doping things myself but I didn't have the time to do it and was reluctant to anyway.

 

[RobbyRam]

Problem is , I have 2 scanners and both show nothing wrong -ie; no codes set! Should I replace my VP44 based on my 'warm hard to start' symptons alone?

Bob in Sacramento

 

[340Mark]

vp44

Well I didn't so much change it but I did install it. The engine was out for a rebuild and the timing cover was of course open. That makes the timing marks easy to see,but it's not necessary. If you have changed injectors, you were half way there. Keep all the injector lines in order and mark them,they are your timing. You might be able to remove two groups of three. They're some what interwoven. The tuff part is removeing the lines at the pump, access is tight. Crows foot wrenches might help. Remove the nut holding the gear through the hole for the breather. before removing the pump make sure the key way is pointing up so you don't drop the new one into the engine.

It's not that hard but it takes time and care. Consult a manual,I'm going on memory because my books are 400 miles away.

I'm pretty sure I'll be changeing my vp44 soon due too intermitent power loss.

 

[Amianthus]

Just the way Mark said it. Remove your lines in two sets of three, remove the wiring harness, remove retaining nut off gear (don't lose key), unbolt pump and remove (bottom bolts are a little tricky). Assembly is reverse of disassembly. It should take you no longer than 2 hours (with the proper tools). It's really easy.



Don't hesitate to ask any questions before you get started.

 

[tcourse]

piece of cake

Had to R&R my pump and the rest of the fuel system to replace Tappet Cover Gasket. Just follow the manual and you should have no problems. Visit your Cummins parts dept and get all gaskets, o-rings, banjo washers, etc. so you won't be hung up in the middle of the job trying to assemble with used stuff.

TC~

 

[kaffine krazed]

It's fairly easy. I was a Dodge mechanic and changed out sevral. I would recomend getting the puller they make for the gear on the VP-44 and a 15mm swivel impact socket . It's not really necasary because you can use a steering wheel puller but it makes it easier. You can see where the timing key is without removing the nut using a mirror. Remove the cover on the starter relay with the truck in nuetral or park with the key off you can bump use the relay to bump the starter until the keyway is at the top. Then disconnect the batteries. Then remover the nut and pull the gear off leave the puller hooked up just back it off some this way you can wiggle the gear some when going in with the new pump. If you have done injectors then you should already know most of the job which is removing the fuel lines. Then there are 4 bolts holding the injection pump to the gear housing and a few more supporting the back of the pump.

 

[keimmmo]

I just got the pickup started tonight after changing the VP-44 "with my own hands". It was intimidating starting out. But, between the factory shop manual and tips from the fellows here, it wasn't a big deal at all!



I would really recommend having a 19mm "crow's foot" line wrench for the lines... sounds like you probably have removed them before. (I bought my set at NAPA. Cost under $20. ) That was the hardest part of the job. I used a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller and the short bolts from the air intake horn to pull the gear off the pump. I added a few washers under the bolt heads to keep them from pulling into the puller.



It was a little tricky lining up the key in the gear installing the new pump. You really should loctite it into the shaft or something to keep it from falling out! A good light and mirror help see which way to move the shaft to get things lined up.



Don't worry about it... just jump in and do it!!!



Steve