Changed front crank seal...question with front cover

[JDKammin]

I re-installed the front cover after fixing the KDP and installing a new crank seal. I noticed that one of the longer bolts had a big wheel washer on it. Normally, I install these bolts on a piece of cardboard so I know what holes the bolts go back into. I did not do this. I am thinking it goes in the lower right hand corner by the crank, by the way the paint looks. Is this correct and what is this for? Thanks.

 

[btoscano]

Lorner by the crank on the driver's side. Not sure what purpose the washer serves.

 

[JDKammin]

Thank you.

 

[rlyons]

One of those wonders of the world, no one seems to know why it is there.

 

[btoscano]

Okay, curiousity got the better of me. Cummins calls it a belt retainer!



Regards,

 

[rlyons]

I do remember someone posting that with the washer removed he had a problem with the belt jumping off, after he replaced the washer he had no more problems??

 

[btoscano]

Mondo bizzaro! If ya'll want a part number I'll dig it up!



Brian

 

[bgilbert]

JDK, is the front crank seal a simple install? Any special tools needed? I'm planning on doing the front and rear crank seals on my 90 engine before it goes into the crew.

 

[btoscano]

bgilbert,



I would just leave the front seal alone if it isn't leaking! But if you are removing the cover to do the KDP then you might as well change it. It relatively easy to do. I have done it twice. You need to pull the fan belt, fan, crank position sensor, & crank pulley. The kit is about $33-40 and includes the plastic snout to guide it over the crank and the metal tool that's supposed to make it easier to install the seal straight into the cover. It can be difficult to get the seal straight into the cover but no special tools are needed.

 

[bgilbert]

Thanks Brian. Normally I leave stuff alone, but this engine has a ton of oil/sludge buildup on the timing cover and below the vibration dampner. Same around and below the rear crank seal. This stuff starts to get expensive when you want to do things right.

 

[btoscano]

Maybe you should change the tappet cover gasket while you're at it... only another $20.



Regards,

 

[btoscano]

By the way, I wish I had my engine out, because then I would replace the rear main seal which is leaking... down here in Tennessee we don't need that much undercoating and the front drive shaft does a nice job of flinging it around!!

 

[JDKammin]

bgilbert, like other post, changing the front seal is not a bad job. I have tried to change the seal from under the truck and did not have much luck. I take the time to remove the radiator, front timing cover and then replace the seal. You need special tools to remove the fan clutch. Everything else is straightforward. The rear crank seal can be a lot more time consuming. You need to remove the engine or the transfer case and transmission.

 

[btoscano]

I removed the entire fan hub assembly (4 bolts to the block) rather than deal with the fan blade and clutch. The radiator doesn't need to be removed. Disconnecting the top radiator hose helps get the fan clutch assembly out. I worked from the top. Its not exactly convenient, but it gets the job done. If you have radiator removal experience and can do it fast, then maybe its better to just pull it. But that uses up a lot more coolant.



Regards,

 

[bgilbert]

Here is how the engine sits now. It's fan mount is missing at the moment. Gotta give ole DP a call on that one. I might just leave it alone til I get it running in the crew. I could always pull the radiator later and do a kdp/front crank seal. Then again it just depends on how bored or busy I get.

 

[dpuckett]

Bill,



I been meanin' to get with ya on that. Seems I sent you a PM a while back you mut've not received. Anyway, I got a bearing, just have to get the old bearing off, or what's left of it



Daniel