Changed fuel filter

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Just a note that I finally changed my fuel filter and I have to agree with the others who say it is a real pain to get to especially in 32* weather with a slight breeze (brrrrr) and I can see the benifets of a relocation kit, but is a doable operation after you figure out how to get your hands in there and finally acccept that you are going to spill some fuel when reinstalling the filter.
Also I had posted a question eirlier about changing the front output seal on the transfer case and had gotten it done a couple of weeks ago,all went well with the only thing being ruff was getting the seal back in while trying to get around the cross member and still see what you are doing and then getting the seal in the depth that it is supposed to be and keeping it sraight. One thing that I did notice was that the flange nut was no were as tight as it should have been it came loose with out much effort at all.
Well this is probably long enough so I will stop now.

Thanks everybody for all the help and suggestion to me and others to help getting these things done.

Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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Flat, I just picked up a 97 4x4 with a PrimeLoc already on it... it sure makes things easier!

 

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Paul,next time you change your fuel filter try removeing the two nuts that hold the master cylinder on. Although it doesn't look like it the MC will swing easily out of the way towards the fender giving you plenty of room to work. IMO the filter relocation kits are a waste of money.

 

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Not only are the filter relocators a waste of money they are in the way if you want to do any work in that area.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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I bent my brake lines towards the fender a little so the filter comes out between the brake lines and engine ahead of the master cylinder. I connect a piece of plastic tubing and funnel to the water drain to refill the filter with fuel. When fuel comes out the air bleed, it's done! After the first time, it's easy!

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

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I have an 98 with the cannister type filter, and ABS. Man, what a pain in the a$$ that is to replace.
I still do it every 10K miles. I'm a glutton for punishment! #ad


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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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Joe, I agree whole-heartedly with you on that and any other appendage for filtration that was not intended to be there.
Patriot, I have the 97 with the same canister, and I love it! I get the job done in 15 minutes, can access canister removal from either above or below, and it's much better than getting a filter wrench in there to turn out the twist on ones. I dread doing one every time they come into the shop, but it puts food on the table, and I'd never turn one away..... I just look forward to working on the canister ones.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Guess the ABS makes all the difference.
I have to direct it under all the labyrinth of wires/hoses,(still full of fuel) to the front by the battery.
When I get it there, I still scratch the paint on my air intake.
Do you do it from below?

 

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Chris,

I don't use a filter wrench. Too big a PITA. I have a large long screw driver and use it like a chisel on the upper rim of the filter to start it turning. Just a few taps and it starts to turn. I also remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the brake booster and lean it out of the way. My truck only has RWAL so I dunno if that will work with 4 wheel ABS. I have big hands so that gives me plenty of room to get hold of the filter to unscrew it and to unclip the wires to the WIF sensor. I loosen the bleed screw and use the manual pump button to fill the filter. This takes a while but I know that all fuel that goes to the injector pump is properly filtered.

 

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4 wheel ABS makes it nearly impossible to do a filter change from on top. I installed a Prime Lock so I would only have to change that **** thing once. Now, I just unscrew and replace but I agree that doing afc housings or torque plates are more difficult because the Prime lock is in the way.
I read another post regarding a large pressure drop because of small interior tubing on the prime locks. Seems to reduce flow quite a bit and has an adverse effect on the newer pumps. Does anyone know if this problem affects the p7100 pumps too?
-Paul R. Haller-

 

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I believe the latest posts on that thread address 12 valve engines with the P7100.

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD